2-Post Lift - Need Advice for Motor Lead to Wall Socket - 220V 30A

[Vet65te]

Just getting the final connections done on a Greg Smith 2-post lift and now need to find the right wire/cabling to connect the 220V pump motor to the wall receptacle, distance between the two around 48". The house and garage were built about 4 years ago and the lift location and wall receptacle were all planned from the start so that wall receptacle is 220V connected to a 30A circuit breaker. The lift does not come with a pigtail for that motor and that's what I'm looking for now. The motor data plate is listed as 2HP, 208-230VACm 1 PH. Any suggestions on what kinda wire/cabling to buy?
The wall recep has '4' slots if that helps. Yes, it's obvious I'm not an electrician.
Thanks,
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Use a 6-30 outlet/attachment plug and #14-3 or 12-3 cordage....

 

[Vet65te]

Thanks for the feedback.
Mike T

 

[pattenp]

Sounds like the existing outlet is a 14-30R. You can use a 14-30P (plug) on the 3 wire cord and not use the neutral prong of the plug. The lift should not require a neutral. The 6-30 is a three prong plug/outlet.

 

[T_R]

I just hardwired my lift, no plug. It was easier for me. We have no code or inspection here. If you do, disregard my advice.

 

[Falcon67]

Hardwired mine too, I can shut it off at the control or the panel either one. Didn't see much need for a cord/plug setup. 30A 10-3 run to the box, then the motor leads that came with the pump are like #14 LOL.

 

[Vet65te]

Went to the local Home Depot and bought a small roll of 12-3 (with ground) Romex, Type NM-B. Been a while since I handled this stuff and when I got home, realized the Romex is solid wire, not stranded. Okay or not okay? This solid core wire seems like it would be a bear to manipulate.
Thanks, MT

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Sounds like the existing outlet is a 14-30R. You can use a 14-30P (plug) on the 3 wire cord and not use the neutral prong of the plug. The lift should not require a neutral. The 6-30 is a three prong plug/outlet.

Good catch.

I glossed right over the 4 prong outlet comment...

Went to the local Home Depot and bought a small roll of 12-3 (with ground) Romex, Type NM-B. Been a while since I handled this stuff and when I got home, realized the Romex is solid wire, not stranded. Okay or not okay? This solid core wire seems like it would be a bear to manipulate.
Thanks, MT

NM-b/Romex is not to be used for equipment cord whips. Nor with attachment plugs.

This is why i said you need cordage such as SJO cord.

Return it and buy some cordage.

 

[lakeroadster]

A plug or a kill switch, within arms reach, is a good idea.

Thanks for the replies and comments fella's

I've read a couple threads here where owners of lifts have had the controls fail ON when the lift is raising. Depending on when that happens it could be really bad.

So I updated the controls on my 2-post lift to include a kill switch.
_________________________________________________________________
Here was the design I came up with that uses an aluminum enclosure and a paddle switch. Both were found via amazon.com

The design replaces the existing hydraulic power unit electric control cover plate and bolts right on in its place.

This allows the lift micro switch and the paddle switch to be close together.



_________________________________________________________________
And here is the completed retrofit.

 

[02vito]

Went to the local Home Depot and bought a small roll of 12-3 (with ground) Romex, Type NM-B. Been a while since I handled this stuff and when I got home, realized the Romex is solid wire, not stranded. Okay or not okay? This solid core wire seems like it would be a bear to manipulate.
Thanks, MT

NM-B cable is not intended for that type use. HD should also have SJO or SJOO stranded power cord by the foot. If not any electrical supply place will have it.

I recommend a local disconnect on or near the lift controls. In the event of a stuck switch [happened to me] you will be thankful you have it.

 

[Vet65te]

Checked and HD did offer the SO cordage but only as a mail-order not in their stores here in Prescott AZ. The good news was that the local Lowes did carry it so I picked up some 12/3 cabling and the lift is now wired correctly...thanks for all the help.
Regarding the comments about a quick disconnect/shutoff, one of my neighbors had such a situation happen to him with the exact same 2-post lift...released the 'UP' button and it kept on going. I believe he stopped it by throwing the circuit breaker switch. In my case, the wall socket is only 3' from the lift motor. Anyone see a problem with simply 'pulling the plug' if releasing the button didn't do the trick?
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

[lakeroadster]

Pulling the plug is fine... as long as you have the presence of mind to do so in a panic situation.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Hardwired mine too, I can shut it off at the control or the panel either one. Didn't see much need for a cord/plug setup. 30A 10-3 run to the box, then the motor leads that came with the pump are like #14 LOL.

Is that switch breaking one leg of the 220?....looks like a good idea if so, may have to borrow that!

 

[phor53]

Nice set up there

Sent from my LG-TP450 using Tapatalk

 

[Scud67]

Yup, I just installed a switch right above the motor that shuts off the power in the event that the "up" button sticks. Something that they probably should have as part of the lift anyway..... (my lift plugs in at the ceiling and the panel is too far away to get to in the event of an "emergency").

 

[prostreetamx]

You can get toggle and even decora switches in 2 pole versions and they still look the same on the front as a single pole version. I added a 2 pole switch on my 240v compressor since the factory rotary switch broke.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You can get toggle and even decora switches in 2 pole versions and they still look the same on the front as a single pole version. I added a 2 pole switch on my 240v compressor since the factory rotary switch broke.

When used as a motor disconnect, need to make sure snap switches are rated for the same or greater HP as the motor.