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20-220v duplex receptacle. Do they exist?

juicegoose

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Aug 26, 2008
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46
Guys I'm looking for a 220v 20A duplex receptacle for a 20A line I put in over the weekend. Naturally the big box stores carry the single 20a-250v outlets but I want a duplex setup. Anyway other then buying two singles, a double gang box and modfiying some cover plates to get this to work?
 
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lametec

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You mean like this?

30142.jpg


Leviton 5822.

Or there's this:

17393.jpg


Leviton 16462.
 

hillbilly1

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Sep 16, 2010
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They make them, but it's going to be tuff to find one. Electrical supply houses could order one, but most will not stock it. The internet may be your best bet.
 
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juicegoose

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Aug 26, 2008
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Thanks guys I found them at amazon> I know I know should have asked first. They list them at 250v and I was searching 220v. Anyway I ordered a Red duplex receptacle so not only will the blade placement be different but the color will to.
 

Norcal

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Thanks guys I found them at amazon> I know I know should have asked first. They list them at 250v and I was searching 220v. Anyway I ordered a Red duplex receptacle so not only will the blade placement be different but the color will to.


That because 220V does not exist anymore in the US & receptacles are rated 125 and 250V.
 

mrb

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ive got some 6-20 plugs if you need...

out of curiosity, what are you doing with this?
 
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juicegoose

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To answer the questions of what I'm doing with this. I do woodworking more then automobile stuff and as such I have a couple tools(dust collector, band saw, jointer,) that can be wired for 220. Even though over ther weekend I put in 2 20A 125V circuits in the garage each with about 6 receptacles on them. I wanted some 220V for expecially the dust collector. I wanted to be able to dedicate it to 220 in th panel so as not to have any breaker tripping issueslike I did before when I ran it along with another big tool. I had some left over 12-2 and not needing really more then 10A for the collector I figured why not!!.
 

mobetta

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twin cities, mn
what is the proper way to wire one of these? using 12-3, where would the ground and neutral go?? I am wiring an outlet right off the panel, so steel outlet box is bonded to panel via 1/2 ******, the box has ground screw to terminate a ground wire, if I put the white neutral to gn on the outlet, it in effect bonds ground and neutral in this box, which i thought was a no-no.

thx
 

mrb

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this type of receptacle gets two hots and a ground, no neutral. with 12/3 Black to one side, red to the other, ground to the ground screw and the neutral does not get connected.
 

mobetta

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twin cities, mn
thanks- so if i wanted to run another outlet to the other side of the building, I could use 12-2 and use the white wire for hot- as long as it is marked as such??

I have a dust collector now and would like to add a bandsaw, maybe powerfeeder, or other smaller 240v tools- only really needing one at a time, other than the DC.
 

kaffine

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Henderson, NV
Any reason I couldn't replace all the outlets feed from a single pole breaker with these and then put a double pole breaker in?
 
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mrb

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Any reason I couldn't replace all the outlets feed from a single pole breaker with these and then put a double pole breaker in?


you want to convert all your outlets to 240v? :confused:
 

kaffine

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I need more power in my computer room. All of the computers are auto sensing for 220V. It would be easier to make everything in that room 220 than running another circuit. Just need to find out if they lights are on the same breaker as the outlets.
 

Norcal

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I need more power in my computer room. All of the computers are auto sensing for 220V. It would be easier to make everything in that room 220 than running another circuit. Just need to find out if they lights are on the same breaker as the outlets.

If residential, it's not permitted.

210.6 Branch-Circuit Voltage Limitations. The nominal
voltage of branch circuits shall not exceed the values permitted
by 210.6(A) through (E).
(A) Occupancy Limitation. In dwelling units and guest
rooms or guest suites of hotels, motels, and similar occupancies,
the voltage shall not exceed 120 volts, nominal,
between conductors that supply the terminals of the
following:
(1) Luminaires
(2) Cord-and-plug-connected loads 1440 volt-amperes,
nominal, or less or less than 1⁄4 hp

 

Professur

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Mo-Ray-Al, K-bec, Ka-Na-Da
thanks- so if i wanted to run another outlet to the other side of the building, I could use 12-2 and use the white wire for hot- as long as it is marked as such??

The general way to do this is to either mark the end of the white with a black sharpie, or with black or red tape. I use red myself ... as black can sometimes be shrugged off.
 

nate379

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Many of the older farm buildings have a few 240v outlets that are the same as a 120v one... IE... you can plug a 120v item into it.

I'm not sure what was commonly used back then that would have needed that kind of outlet. Only way to know it was 240v was the wall plate and sometimes receptacle was red.

Oh, and a 1960s Sears compressor will go really fast if you plug it into one of those outlets. Don't ask how I know :bounce: Somehow the motor is still working 15 years later!

No idea if it was to code, but talking about wiring done 40-50 yrs ago.

If residential, it's not permitted.

210.6 Branch-Circuit Voltage Limitations. The nominal
voltage of branch circuits shall not exceed the values permitted
by 210.6(A) through (E).
(A) Occupancy Limitation. In dwelling units and guest
rooms or guest suites of hotels, motels, and similar occupancies,
the voltage shall not exceed 120 volts, nominal,
between conductors that supply the terminals of the
following:
(1) Luminaires
(2) Cord-and-plug-connected loads 1440 volt-amperes,
nominal, or less or less than 1⁄4 hp

 

Norcal

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Many of the older farm buildings have a few 240v outlets that are the same as a 120v one... IE... you can plug a 120v item into it.

I'm not sure what was commonly used back then that would have needed that kind of outlet. Only way to know it was 240v was the wall plate and sometimes receptacle was red.

Oh, and a 1960s Sears compressor will go really fast if you plug it into one of those outlets. Don't ask how I know :bounce: Somehow the motor is still working 15 years later!

No idea if it was to code, but talking about wiring done 40-50 yrs ago.

A computer will not meet the criteria of 1440 VA to be allowed to run @ 240V in a residence as asked by a previous poster, code is code & one must live by the limitations set by the NEC.
 

nate379

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And your point would be?? I wasn't arguing anything about the code, just a little story about old farm buildings.
 

VHF

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Location
NW Wisconsin
You could run a MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit) for your computers. A MWBC is really two 15A or 20A circuits that share a neutral. The two hot legs MUST be on separate legs so as no to overload the neutral. In fact, with perfectly balanced loads on the two halfs of a MWBC the neutral does not carry any current.

If you split a duplex receptical so each half is on one hot leg of the MWBC and plug in two computers running at 120V each, the current draw would be the same as if you were running two computers at 240V as you proposed. In essense the two computers would be in series for a total 240V load on the circuit.

Note that under 2008 NEC code, both hot conductors must be supplied by a common-trip breaker (240VAC double breaker or two single breakers with handle ties) so that that both "halfs" of the MWBC are powered down together.
 

airbatica

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Nov 14, 2010
Messages
128
A computer will not meet the criteria of 1440 VA to be allowed to run @ 240V in a residence as asked by a previous poster, code is code & one must live by the limitations set by the NEC.

I'm no electrical genius, but could you circumvent the 1440VA requirement
by using a suitably large UPS (APC SmartUPS 2000 or equivalent) to distribute power to the computers?
 

nehog

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Jaffrey, NH
A computer will not meet the criteria of 1440 VA to be allowed to run @ 240V in a residence as asked by a previous poster, code is code & one must live by the limitations set by the NEC.

You can do what I did, use a big MF UPS (3.5 KVA) that is rated at 240 volts in (it has 240/120 output). But I did use a twist lock connector on that one, if for no reason other than I didn't want someone to 'kick' the cord out of the wall!
 

sneezer41

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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
407
Location
People's Republic of Mass
I somehow doubt the intent of the code is to prevent the poster from doing what he wants, although i don't think it is a good idea. I believe one can run 240 volt outlets was one wishes, but they would not count as code required outlets. So you do need x amount of 120 volt outlets in a room/wallspace whathaveyou. 240 volt outlets are code approved, and what one plugs into them becomes ones own business. It is possible your insurance company might have issues if there was a problem related to rewired light fixtures plugged into them.

BTW I got one of these from my local elec supply so I could plug my compressor and lift into one outlet. One had to take one's finger off the lift button[theoretically] if the compressor fired.
 
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