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30x30x12 insulation ???

StangRacing

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
35
Location
Hattiesburg, Ms
I have seem to run out and above my budget on my shop for the things I wanted wife added a leintoo 30x10 with concrete and took all the money I was going to use on the insulation of the building

the building is being constructed of metal industry Red Iron and Metal. I and wondering what I can do to put insulation in later. I wanted to put in all in now as the building is being constructed so I can have it between the metal.

I am going to try and do the roof and side walls later I have been told that I would lose some room because the insulation would be hanging puff out.........

anyone?
 
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bigdav160

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Apr 14, 2007
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2,027
Location
Deep in the heart of Texas
Personally,I wouldn't worry about it. How far is Hattiesburg from the coast? Insulation is typically used to keep the hot air in or, in the case of my sealed Igloo cooler, the cold air in. I been in some insulated (non climate controlled) buildings that were just hot boxes under the summer sun.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
I "grew up" around the Columbus, GA, airport where there were lots of non insulated metal buildings. I worked in one for several years. They were like ovens. In the morning, the sun would start on the east wall and you couldn't get within several feet of it, and it got worse from there. When I built a 60x60x16 metal building (also rediron/c-channel/Z-prulin construction, I insulated. What a difference it makes down here in the south.

My problem is now, that I went with the cheapest insulation as I was running out of money when I built. The stuff is very brittle now, I don't let anyone so much as touch it, let along anything lean against it. Skinning the inside of the building would be cost prohibitive.

The other issue with the non-insulated buildings is sweating of the floors. We experienced lots of that certain times of the year, but with my insulated building, the inside of the closed building (unheated) stays much warmer in cold weather (and so does the slab) so that when warm moist air comes rolling in, the slab is not so cold as to sweat. This happens frequently in the south in the winter, cold front, warm front, cold front, warm front, the sudden shift from dry cold to warm and damp causes lots of sweating of the building and floors if not insulated.

Your only real alternative would be to spray insulate later, what a mess that would be!

For the roof, I did find some good alternatives, hanging "baskets" that hung from the purlins and in between them, that the insulation lays in. It doesn't hang below the bottom of the purlins, but about flush with them, and with a little work I think can be installed after the build. If you can scare up the money, at least do the roof however during construction, as it will be well worth it.

Charles
 
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StangRacing

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
35
Location
Hattiesburg, Ms
Yeah kinda wished I would have waited on the leinto and did the full insulation. I hate that you can't do anything really other then spray in after the building is constructed.

I am going to do the roof during constuction no matter what the extra cost of the side walls would cause me to borrow the money and even wait longer to get Power to it.

so I am still torn on that
 
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brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
I,m in Mobile and my metal building got hot in summer and cold in winter. I put up 2x4 walls and insulted with fiberglass. screw plywood on top of the 2x. the roof I did fiberglass with plywood screw to the purlin. Yes plywood will burn, but you have to hold a torch to it to get started. Its not going to just burst into flame, but drywall, you look at it and it will break.
 
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StangRacing

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
35
Location
Hattiesburg, Ms
If I did insulation later on sidewalls if course it would be lot more labor but could you not unscrew on sheet of metal at a time and put instulation between the too?
 

nathank

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Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
509
Location
West Texas
For the roof, I did find some good alternatives, hanging "baskets" that hung from the purlins and in between them, that the insulation lays in. It doesn't hang below the bottom of the purlins, but about flush with them, and with a little work I think can be installed after the build. If you can scare up the money, at least do the roof however during construction, as it will be well worth it.

Charles

More information / pics on this process? I have mine insulated 8ft up the wall, but I need something for the ceiling. I was thinking about rigging something up like this, and was very excited to see someone has done it!
 

gbcamp72

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
47
Location
Magnolia, TX
The subject of insulating metal buildings and pole buildings is a reoccurring subject on GJ. Stang is the latest poster to raise the question. I have a just moved to a home with an uninsulated steel building. Its northwest of Houston and already in the past two months it’s been hot, sweating, and cold in there. I need to retrofit insulation to moderate the extremes. I have investigated the net and all the GJ archives put I’m still vague on what approaches could be used. I kind of get the impression that the spray on foam is the best approach but it is pricy and I have 3 kids in college right now. I and I get the impression several others are looking at what affordable options might exist. I would really appreciate advice from people who have been down this path to help define approaches which have been successfully used in the past.

Thanks Glenn
 
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