80 gallon compressor gloat, and questions

[givemethewillys]

Hey guys, I wanted to share with you my latest acquisition.... It's a 1993 Campbell Hausfeld Excalibur 80 Gallon compressor. It has a 5hp U.S. Motor Co. motor, and is a two stage compressor.

The best part is that so far I'm into it for $0.00

Now for the questions:
I picked it up from a local auto dealership that my buddy works for. They had it since new, but from what I was told, "it started blowing relays" so they replaced it. How do I begin to diagnose this thing?

The pulleys turn freely when I turn them by hand. There is a fine mist of oil all over every surface of the compressor. It is wired for 230 1 phase. However, I don't have 230 run to the garage yet. I do have a generator with a 230 plug as well as the dryer receptacle.

Should I just tear this thing down and rebuild it completely before even trying to run it? How do I find the darn model number on this thing (cross referenced every number I could find with no luck)?

 

[driz]

Change the oil and clean her up and try it. CH uses pretty cheap electronics so they go south fairly easily. The good news is that they are cheap. I fried the switch box on my 22o v 36 gall single stage and replaced it with one off Amazon or Ebay for less than 20 bucks. Those switches with the unloader valve are the normal problem items so start there first. If it groans when it starts up that's an almost sure sign and the strain can start blowing breakers . Do make sure all the electrical connectors are clean and tight before doing any of this though.
If you think it's in the motor you could try taking it to the local mom n pop electric motor shop. They will usually test a motor for you for free and that's where you will likely be best off getting it fixed or a new motor anyways. Much cheaper than off some company part number by a huge margin. I have found a Dayton can cost much less than its Chinese counterpart with the square bearings.
I was given a beautiful old industrial 8" grinder a few years back. It wouldn't start up and only ran when it was Helped by rolling the wheel. Into the shop it went and I was gone 17 bucks later with a new electric part in 15 minutes. Some sort of big canister looking like a capacitor that starts the motor.
If you do need the electric control box like I said size it up and hit Amazon. IIRC mine is for a well pump of some sort but it matched up perfectly and works fine now for 3 years. I didn't get the idea myself so a quick search will likely give you the info you need.

 

[finn]

I don't know much about compressors, but the highest current draw is on startup.

I'd look into the unloader valve system and then the start capacitors before I tore down the compressor head. It sounds like it is either pumping against a head or needs the boost of a capacitor to get underway.

 

[givemethewillys]

Thanks for the responses. I think I'll change the oil and try to start it up before doing anything else.

Can anyone tell me how to find the model number of this compressor? I've been striking out, and of course it doesn't have the conveniently labeled placard that is shown on the CH site

 

[acmikee]

Check all of the electrical connections first. Then take the belt off before you start it. If the motor runs fine then put the belts back on. Check the oil level And start it.
Only use aie compressor oil or 30w NON detergent motor oil

 

[aka Larry]

The best part is that so far I'm into it for $0.00

This is worth a well deserved YOU ****!

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Looks like a Powerex pump, which is owned by the same parent company as CH.

 

[md21722]

If its blowing oil all over the place, take the discharge line off. It's the line between the pump and the tank. If it has anything more than light carbon, the pump is wearing or shot and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. You can also run it without the discharge line attached and hold your hand up to the pump outlet. If it's bad your hand will be oily in no time. Causes for pump puking oil are stuck rings, gouged pistons, blocked breather, etc. A CH pump may not be worth rebuilding. If the motor is good I'd look elsewhere. Beware, if the pump was making oil, the tank may be loaded with it. Not gonna be great for your air lines, you have a water separator/filter right?

 

[redmondjp]

From looking at the motor label, it looks like one of your motor capacitors may have leaked its magic sauce out down the side of the motor. That would certainly explain the fuse-blowing. Pull the cover off the capacitor compartment and take a look.

 

[Jarhead0408]

Nice! Congratulations my friend!

I look forward to you getting her up and running!

 

[givemethewillys]

Wow, thanks everyone for the helpful responses. It looks like I definitely have a direction to head towards. I know this compressor was used hard for nearly 20 years, but with the guidance you've all given me I'm confident that I can get this thing back in tip top shape!

The first order of business will be to get the motor checked out. I'll be bringing it to a mom n' pop electric shop here in Richmond. Next, I'm going to take down the pump and check the discharge tube for oil as was suggested. Thanks for the heads up on the powerex pump, I still haven't been able to find a part #.

No matter what, I'm going to get this back in working order. I decided to trade my current harbor freight 21 gallon compressor for a small pancake so I'll have some portability. That means the running total for this project is now at $50.00

 

[givemethewillys]

As a side question, does anyone know if the squirrel cage fan on the pump side opposite the pulley is necessary, or just a gimmicky feature? I've never seen one on other compressors, and I'm betting it makes a heck of a roar!

 

[driz]

As a side question, does anyone know if the squirrel cage fan on the pump side opposite the pulley is necessary, or just a gimmicky feature? I've never seen one on other compressors, and I'm betting it makes a heck of a roar!

Just a thought but remember one thing. When was the last time you saw something on a machine (aside from completely idiotic safetys) that a company put on something that could be gone without? If you can think of something I bet you were a kid when you saw it

 

[givemethewillys]

Just a thought but remember one thing. When was the last time you saw something on a machine (aside from completely idiotic safetys) that a company put on something that could be gone without? If you can think of something I bet you were a kid when you saw it

Hahaha the first thing that came to mind when I read your post was all of the emissions **** on my 6.0 super duty! That junk causes more problems than any other system on any vehicle I've ever owned!

 

[givemethewillys]

So, I called Campbell Hausfeld today, and they were ZERO help in identifying this compressor. Basically, they said that if it didn't have their tidy little sticker that has the model number written on it, they couldn't help me. I could email a bunch of pictures of it and maybe they would be able to help from there.

Its amazing that a bunch of guys that like to hang out in their workshops was more help than the manufacturer of the compressor. Thanks again everyone!

 

[redmondjp]

Its amazing that a bunch of guys that like to hang out in their workshops was more help than the manufacturer of the compressor. Thanks again everyone!

Not amazing at all . . . manufacturers are in business to do one thing: to make money by selling new stuff. From a purely economic standpoint, they don't stand to gain a lot from spending time with you to sell you a part for something that they made 20 years ago.

With that being said, if you can get transferred to the right person in the parts or service department, hopefully you can find somebody that can help (if you can get an email then you can send pictures to them).

 

[givemethewillys]

Bingo! My buddy came over earlier today, and as we were BSing about the new compressor, I noticed the marking HS481300AJ on the placard that has the running amperage ratings. This gave me access to the manuals and parts list, so I should be able to order at least the basics to rebuild the pump

 

[redmondjp]

Bingo! My buddy came over earlier today, and as we were BSing about the new compressor, I noticed the marking HS481300AJ on the placard that has the running amperage ratings. This gave me access to the manuals and parts list, so I should be able to order at least the basics to rebuild the pump

Great! I just checked their website (www.chpower.com) and you'll want to use the compressor model number "HS4813" in their search box and it will get you to a list of all related parts lists and instructions. I'm not seeing any compressor pump breakdown of parts, however - they list the entire compressor pump as item #1 (see pages 4-5):

http://www.chpower.com/images/pdfs/manual01/252602_1199.pdf

BUT, if you google "campbell hausfeld HS720000AJ" (the pump part number), then you can find a bunch of third-party parts sources and exploded-view diagrams. I just checked ereplacementparts.com and it looks like (as is the case for many 1990s consumer-grade compressors) that many of the parts are NLA (no longer available). But take the NLA part number and google it anyways, to see if anybody else may have it.

It looks like you can still get rings and most of the gaskets, but the valve plates (with the reed valves) for both the HP and LP cylinders are NLA. And even worse, the valve kit, which contains new reed valves and seals, is also NLA. And if you have any wear on the rods, crank, or piston pin, it's new pump time.

If it were me, I would first put the motor back on the unit and get it running first. Then you can listen for knocking sounds from the pump, check the pump-up times, and check for oil in the discharge as discussed above. Then go from there. You might be better off just running it as-is, and if the pump is tired/leaky, shop for a new pump in the mean time. You can still run a leaky pump - the oil will end up in the tank (or on the outside, depending upon where the leak is), and you will still be able to use it. Just keep the pump crankcase topped off with non-detergent 30W.

If you tear into it, and find out that you need a part that you can't get, it's done, and you don't have a working unit at all. If you re-ring it, and a month later a reed valve breaks, you're also SOL unless you can source a piece of reed valve stock that can be modified to be used as a replacement part (check with a good compressor repair shop - they probably can help you out on this). You don't want to dump $150 in parts into the pump and then find out that you still need a NLA part - you're better off putting that money towards a new pump instead.

 

[givemethewillys]

Redmondjp, thanks for the advice. I think like you suggested I'm going to get the motor tested and running right away and just clean up what I can. It seems that I can get equivalent Chinese replacement pumps in the $3-500 range so that might end up being the way to go after I check everything out. I found a 3-cylinder one that puts out comparable specs. Is there any advantage to a 3 cylinder design over a v-twin?

My buddy remembered the compressor being really loud and running a lot. Hopefully that doesn't mean bad reed valves since they are NLA. If it comes down to it maybe I can fabricate something. Either way, I'm excited to dive into this project and get my big boy compressor up and running!

 

[givemethewillys]

Time for a quick update. The holidays put the compressor on the back burner, but this past weekend I was able to get some time to look at things.

I pulled the motor off took the capacitor covers off. There is one oval shaped cap that is obviously blown, and two round ones that are dirty but still functional. I'm hoping that this means it's a simple repair and the compressor can be put into service inexpensively!

The motor squeeks when I turn the shaft and has very little resistance as well; does this mean that the bearings or other parts are shot?

I was also able to give the pump a good cleaning. It was covered in 1/8" of black grime. I'm not sure if it came from the shop, or from the compressor itself. One of the bolts holding the intercooler was stripped, possibly causing an air leak?

Anyways, the pump looks brand new after an oven cleaner bath I'll post some pictures when I get a chance.

 

[driz]

Change the oil and clean her up and try it. CH uses pretty cheap electronics so they go south fairly easily. The good news is that they are cheap. I fried the switch box on my 22o v 36 gall single stage and replaced it with one off Amazon or Ebay for less than 20 bucks. Those switches with the unloader valve are the normal problem items so start there first. If it groans when it starts up that's an almost sure sign and the strain can start blowing breakers . Do make sure all the electrical connectors are clean and tight before doing any of this though.
If you think it's in the motor you could try taking it to the local mom n pop electric motor shop. They will usually test a motor for you for free and that's where you will likely be best off getting it fixed or a new motor anyways. Much cheaper than off some company part number by a huge margin. I have found a Dayton can cost much less than its Chinese counterpart with the square bearings.
I was given a beautiful old industrial 8" grinder a few years back. It wouldn't start up and only ran when it was Helped by rolling the wheel. Into the shop it went and I was gone 17 bucks later with a new electric part in 15 minutes. Some sort of big canister looking like a capacitor that starts the motor.
If you do need the electric control box like I said size it up and hit Amazon. IIRC mine is for a well pump of some sort but it matched up perfectly and works fine now for 3 years. I didn't get the idea myself so a quick search will likely give you the info you need.

And you will find most of those electronics on eBay, amazon ect.....way cheaper

Hey guys, I wanted to share with you my latest acquisition.... It's a 1993 Campbell Hausfeld Excalibur 80 Gallon compressor. It has a 5hp U.S. Motor Co. motor, and is a two stage compressor.

The best part is that so far I'm into it for $0.00 [emoji481]

Now for the questions:
I picked it up from a local auto dealership that my buddy works for. They had it since new, but from what I was told, "it started blowing relays" so they replaced it. How do I begin to diagnose this thing?

The pulleys turn freely when I turn them by hand. There is a fine mist of oil all over every surface of the compressor. It is wired for 230 1 phase. However, I don't have 230 run to the garage yet. I do have a generator with a 230 plug as well as the dryer receptacle.

Should I just tear this thing down and rebuild it completely before even trying to run it? How do I find the darn model number on this thing (cross referenced every number I could find with no luck)?

I don't know much about compressors, but the highest current draw is on startup.

I'd look into the unloader valve system and then the start capacitors before I tore down the compressor head. It sounds like it is either pumping against a head or needs the boost of a capacitor to get underway.