SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
I have to do head gaskets on a 2001 Subaru. Has anyone here done this job with either the haynes manual or the chilton manual? Do they have the proper torque specs for the timing belt components and head components?
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A book is a tool right?
- Thread starter SuitorsGarage
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Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
My experience with a relitavely modern engine was rebuilding the top end of the 4 cyl engine on a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. Using a Haynes book, everything went well. However, the instructions that came with the head gasket / bolt kit were different than what was in the book. I followed those directions and had no trouble.
As I remember, the Haynes book gave 1 torque value for all of the head bolts. The instructions with the head gasket kit showed that on specific head bolts, I should tighten them down to the specified torque, then add 3/4 of a turn.
Timing belt component torque specs should be straightforward.
All of my repair experience was before YouTube. That may be good place for guidance.
Good luck.
As I remember, the Haynes book gave 1 torque value for all of the head bolts. The instructions with the head gasket kit showed that on specific head bolts, I should tighten them down to the specified torque, then add 3/4 of a turn.
Timing belt component torque specs should be straightforward.
All of my repair experience was before YouTube. That may be good place for guidance.
Good luck.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
Post the make and engine and someone might be able to help you out with the specs.
Personally the last several motors I've done have gotten the 3/8s impact torque spec. A hundred people will probably post and tell me how I'm a stupid hillbilly that seeks ****** pleasure from farm animals for saying that. It just happens to work for me.
Personally the last several motors I've done have gotten the 3/8s impact torque spec. A hundred people will probably post and tell me how I'm a stupid hillbilly that seeks ****** pleasure from farm animals for saying that. It just happens to work for me.
Greg85mcss
Well-known member
We just had one in the shop yesterday. It was a long process. 3 different specs then 2 angle specs. Make sure you have an angle torque wrench.
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OP
SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
It's a 01 forester with 2.5L non-turbo SOHC. I bought the car cheap ($350) with a bad head gasket. Was dropped off by AAA at my buddy's shop with a bad radiator. They put a new radiator in it, pressure tested it and determined it needed a head gasket. The owners were from out of state and gave them the car for the repair bill.
I planned on picking up one of those cheap manuals anyway for it. I just wasn't sure if that info was still in them or if it gives you the old "installation is reverse of the removal".
I planned on picking up one of those cheap manuals anyway for it. I just wasn't sure if that info was still in them or if it gives you the old "installation is reverse of the removal".
just wasn't sure if that info was still in them or if it gives you the old "installation is reverse of the removal".
What I've done on old one of… equipment is use a beam torque wrench to remove the bolts and note the torque required to break them. Then tighten them back to that spec and compare to the ones you haven't cracked loose yet. This gives you the "feel" (good to have when an open end wrench is all you can fit on an obstructed fastener). Consistency is as important as the torque (although the proper torque reading automatically gives you consistency if the specs are available).
454ragtop
Well-known member
I did 1 head due to a bent valve (broken timing belt) on a Forester a couple years ago, not much room. If doing both heads, I'd pull the engine. Doubt it would take any longer, but sure would be a lot easier.
jask
Well-known member
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1991652
I have done a few of them for VW conversions, check the coolant overflow to see if it is grungy ( usually is...) as most head gaskets give lots of warning before failing.... if it got hot enough to pop the rad it also got hot enough to plug the rings full of burnt oil crud.make sure you pull the pistons and inspect rings and wrist pins... do the timing belt and water pump while you are at it. Have fun! they are a great engine to learn on and pay attention to BELT and timing marks when you reassemble it.
I have done a few of them for VW conversions, check the coolant overflow to see if it is grungy ( usually is...) as most head gaskets give lots of warning before failing.... if it got hot enough to pop the rad it also got hot enough to plug the rings full of burnt oil crud.make sure you pull the pistons and inspect rings and wrist pins... do the timing belt and water pump while you are at it. Have fun! they are a great engine to learn on and pay attention to BELT and timing marks when you reassemble it.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
My experience with Haynes/Chilton/Motor manuals is that they are good for shimming your coffee table but **** for doing anything other than basic maintenance on your car. Spend the money and get a factory service manual. These aftermarket books are simply "cliff notes" versions of the factory book and always leave something out.
OP
SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
These aftermarket books are simply "cliff notes" versions of the factory book and always leave something out.
That is exactly what I was asking, do they at least have the torque specs and tolerances for valve lash.
Like JJTrasher I know I could just put it back together and make it work. I've done stuff like that in the past. I prefer specs though. Rather than print stuff out, I was thinking of just spending $20 bucks or so on a cheap manual. I don't need the step by step instructions just the specs.
Jlbc212
Well-known member
I prefer Haynes over the Chiltons, but the OEM factory service manuals are usually the best. The Haynes I've used had the torque specs.
L5wolvesf
Well-known member
A book is a tool right? Yes, an educational tool.
I prefer the individual vehicle Haynes manuals over Chilton over Clymer (if they're still around). I won't touch anyone's car without one. You can get them used (not abused) via Amazon for half the price of new.
I prefer the individual vehicle Haynes manuals over Chilton over Clymer (if they're still around). I won't touch anyone's car without one. You can get them used (not abused) via Amazon for half the price of new.
duwem
Well-known member
I have the 4" thick Bentley manual for my VW and it's worthless. Forums and u tube actually show you how to do the work. How tos on forums are best. People on u tube spend 45 minutes talking about a 20 second step.
anndel
Well-known member
I did a complete overhaul on my aunt's 1996 Toyota Tercel and the Haynes/Chilton manuals she bought as her son suggested were worthless. I subscribed to AllData and MitchellDIY and both helped greatly, like having the Factory Shop Manual.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Dedicated shelf in my cupboards as well USB plug for google!
I do Subaru head gaskets often. Not a hard job, but it's not a quick job. Technically the last couple steps of the torque procedure call for a torque angle gauge, but the spec is 80-90 degrees, so I have gotten by on my own cars at home by making a mark at each corner of the square drive on the socket, and eyeballing it from there as I tighten it. I can make up some pictures for you or get more specific for you as you need me to. I did this on both of my Subarus, and they both have around 60k on them since the gaskets were replaced.
I would also recommend jacking the motor up as high as you can in the car. Just undo the motor mounts from the bottom of the engine, and pull the mount going from the top of the engine to the firewall.
I've never pulled the engine out of a car to do headgaskets on a Subaru. Good luck, and let me know if you have more questions
I would also recommend jacking the motor up as high as you can in the car. Just undo the motor mounts from the bottom of the engine, and pull the mount going from the top of the engine to the firewall.
I've never pulled the engine out of a car to do headgaskets on a Subaru. Good luck, and let me know if you have more questions
nbpt100
Well-known member
I would second those who say the Haynes manual is better than the Chilton's. (Assuming you live in a relatively highly populated area) If all you want are the spec's you should be able to go to your local library and take out either the Haynes or Chilton's and get the torque specs. I have found most larger library's carry one or the other for the most common vehicles. Some Libraries have on line subscriptions to services like All Data.
When I get rid of a car I usually donate my manual to the local library. I don't know where in NH you live but the Portsmouth Library is a great resource.
When I get rid of a car I usually donate my manual to the local library. I don't know where in NH you live but the Portsmouth Library is a great resource.
OP
SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the replies. My local NAPA has an in-house machine shop so when I drop the heads off there I'll probably just pick up a book. I do have access to Mitchell's just not at my home shop or at my job. I would have to print them from my friends shop. I'm not usually home during their business hours and would have to call and ask them to do it for me then have the wife pic them up.
@nbpt11
Northern NH. Just above the White Mountain Region.
@nbpt11
Northern NH. Just above the White Mountain Region.
L5wolvesf
Well-known member
I have the 4" thick Bentley manual for my VW and it's worthless. Forums and u tube actually show you how to do the work. How tos on forums are best. People on u tube spend 45 minutes talking about a 20 second step.
I've had Bentley manuals for several of my foreign car and they were very useful. Is your VW a newer one or?
I agree some forums are quite helpful.
I bought a factory Chrysler repair manual for the wife's '06 PT Cruiser off ebay (CD-ROM) for like 8 bucks. Way, way nicer and more thorough than a Haynes or Chilton's.
That's what I'd buy if it were me. You can print off pages that you need to take out to the car/garage.
That's what I'd buy if it were me. You can print off pages that you need to take out to the car/garage.
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Tellingthem
Well-known member
I bought a Haynes that I keep with my truck. I will use other resources as well (you tube, forums, etc) But I do like to flip through it as well. I got it off ebay so it was cheap and really for a few bucks I figure its a nice backup. Especially since i have to work at my storage unit so internet is limited to my phone. Plus I'm old school and still like to have actual pages. And it makes for great bathroom reading!
R. Johnson
Well-known member
South Main Auto on youtube has a great video series dedicated to the Subaru head job. It's for a newer model, but the engine is the same.
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Keyblazer
Well-known member
Go to the Subaru Outback forum and you will find an an extensive thread I did on my Step sons 2000 Outback which covers everything you will be doing. I also did and engine removal step by step.
Will post links in a bit, but look for the thread Bought an overheated Outback...
Will post links in a bit, but look for the thread Bought an overheated Outback...
Keyblazer
Well-known member
Here ya go...
Main thread..
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...644-bought-overheated-2001-obw-gonna-fix.html
Engine removal thread..
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...rated-guides/33809-engine-removal-thread.html
Main thread..
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...644-bought-overheated-2001-obw-gonna-fix.html
Engine removal thread..
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...rated-guides/33809-engine-removal-thread.html
jask
Well-known member
If you are pulling the heads without a manual make sure the cams are locked when you remove the timing belt or they could spring the valves into into rrference contact with the pistons.
I broke a bolt once on a VW because the Hayne manual gave the wrong torque value. Hayne and Chilton are quite low on detail and generic. If you plan to fix the car quite often, spend the money to get a factory repair manual. Get used on Ebay.
Brian_WK
Well-known member
6MocoA
Banned
Thats awesome, but my Russian is a bit weak at the moment.
- Oh and the document in the 2015-16 Legacy folder is not only in Russian but its the Owner's manual NOT the factory service manual.
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Brian_WK
Well-known member
Thats awesome, but my Russian is a bit weak at the moment.
- Oh and the document in the 2015-16 Legacy folder is not only in Russian but its the Owner's manual NOT the factory service manual.
Alot of the newer stuff isn't there but for the older it is. Never looked at the new stuff and saw that it was in Russian LOL.
Brian
OP
SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
Brian, thanks for the link. It was better than any FSM in pdf that I found.
Here is an update:
I had to work for a couple of weeks without the chance for a day off at my job so I could only squeeze in an hour or so in the evenings. That made this little job seam like it would never get finished.
The head gaskets are done, although I don't think that was the issue with this car. I'm pretty sure it was a $.10 o-ring on the coolant crossover tube. I did the gaskets regardless because there was no history on this car and I had the parts already. Not gonna lie, I drank a few beers staring at it and contemplating returning parts and gambling on a $350 car. Then I remembered who was going to be driving it...the wife. If it were for me to drive I would have returned the parts. She also told me over dinner that she was always more proud of the beater cars that I picked up and rebuilt for her when we could never afford a payment. So I had to make sure her winter beater was going to make it thru the winter.
I did the head gaskets in the car. The right side was easy. I lowered it down in with an engine crane. No struggling. The left side was harder. I could not get it in without loosening the motor mounts. Then it was like doing it on an engine stand.
Tools that took some of the **** out of this job:
24" 1/2" drive flex ratchet
3/8" drive Techangle
3/8" drive air ratchet
120XP 3/8" drive flex ratchet (just because it's my go to at work)
Fully stocked beer fridge
Here is an update:
I had to work for a couple of weeks without the chance for a day off at my job so I could only squeeze in an hour or so in the evenings. That made this little job seam like it would never get finished.
The head gaskets are done, although I don't think that was the issue with this car. I'm pretty sure it was a $.10 o-ring on the coolant crossover tube. I did the gaskets regardless because there was no history on this car and I had the parts already. Not gonna lie, I drank a few beers staring at it and contemplating returning parts and gambling on a $350 car. Then I remembered who was going to be driving it...the wife. If it were for me to drive I would have returned the parts. She also told me over dinner that she was always more proud of the beater cars that I picked up and rebuilt for her when we could never afford a payment. So I had to make sure her winter beater was going to make it thru the winter.
I did the head gaskets in the car. The right side was easy. I lowered it down in with an engine crane. No struggling. The left side was harder. I could not get it in without loosening the motor mounts. Then it was like doing it on an engine stand.
Tools that took some of the **** out of this job:
24" 1/2" drive flex ratchet
3/8" drive Techangle
3/8" drive air ratchet
120XP 3/8" drive flex ratchet (just because it's my go to at work)
Fully stocked beer fridge