To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Air compressor accessories?

Jhass

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
12
Just got my 60 gallon 5hp compressor running and wondering about recommendations on accessories for it. It's a King Canada with 18.5 CFM @ 100 psi.

What's a decent pressure regulator that wont empty my pockets? Looking at doing quite a bit of automotive painting this spring and need a decent paint gun as well?

Hose reels worth it? Should I run 1/2 inch lines or 3/8?

What's your favorite air tools?

Thanks for all suggestions, cheers.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
J

Jhass

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
12
What does that speedaire cost? How often do you need to maintain the filter? Where did you get the air line from tank to regulator and the fittings? Thanks 👊
Also... that's an awesome tool rack!! Nice set up man
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,342
Location
Far NE Oregon
Before you "cheap out" on an air pressure regulator, check for availability of rebuild kits. Regs wear out, but a decent quality one will have a rebuild kit that's a fraction the cost of a new reg. Norgren makes a reasonably priced line of regs that are easily and inexpensively rebuildable.

Good quality oil/water separators are a very good investment. I use two, one for rough separation, one for fine.

53637814337_5dacce5fc9_b.jpg

That's my secondary water separator and a 0.1 micron filter. Those both go before my....

If you really care about having dry air--auto body painting, control systems (which I run), expensive air tools, etc, one of these:

53639139800_27ca97f0c0_b.jpg

A refrigerated air dryer--ain't cheap, but pays for itself in a year or two in some applications. If your compressor has an air cooler between the comp. and the tank, put the air dryer after the air cooler and before the tank and your tank will never (or very rarely) need draining.

Automatic tank drain. These things startle the hell out of me , so I don't use one, but they are a damned good idea. I just kick the drain valve open for a minute about twice a day--my compressors run a lot.

The drier and cleaner your air is, the longer everything down stream of the comp will last.
 

Citation

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,251
Location
Indy
Before even a refrigerator drier I would look at putting an after cooler with condensate drain between the pump and tank. It's a great way to get a lot of water out before it goes to the tank. The drier is even more security but many not be needed.
 

Ilikeike

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Messages
2,452
Location
Northern Ca.
What does that speedaire cost? How often do you need to maintain the filter? Where did you get the air line from tank to regulator and the fittings? Thanks 👊
Mine was about $70
How often you maintain your filters depends on use.
I think I got the premade hose whip from Grainger
Air tool racks from Amazon
 

johnre

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
1,084
Location
Portland, OR
I use this brand of combination filter / regulator; it does OK. It's a PneumaticPlus SAU320-N03G, and inlet / outlet size is 3/8". You might want to step up to the 1/2" SAU420-N04G, given the larger capacity of your system.

Mount this combo unit on a wall, a little distance from the compressor, and use a flex hose between them; it's recommended by the manufacturer, and it also avoids vibration.

1712555065988.png

For accessories, I would say get:
  1. A good quality air reel, sized to reach the farthest point of your shop (or if that's too far, get a couple and build a distribution system). Get a quarter-turn shutoff ball valve for each, so they aren't always sitting at full pressure.
  2. Rubber-tipped blowgun.
  3. Air chucks / extensions to reach every type of tire filler Schrader valve that you have, including the spares without having to pull them out.
  4. A good quality pressure gauge.
  5. A hot water / air cleaning pistol; this is far more gentle than a pressure washer.
  6. A dryer, since you paint.
  7. Whatever power air tools, staplers, nailers, etc. that you need - hard to know your applications here. Note these are still much less cost than corded electric or battery models, but the trend seems to be going toward battery operation.
  8. Quick change couplers for all of the above; pick your preferred type and stick with it. These will also give you some "swivel" capability, so you aren't winding up the hose as you move about and reposition.
  9. For longer life on your compressor tank, consider getting a timed auto-drain system, so you don't have to remember to drain the water regularly. They aren't that expensive.
 
Last edited:

Steve_P

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,231
I have Wilkerson filters and regulator- you can find them at Zoro, McMaster, etc.

You should research how to come up with a good air distribution system. Ideally, run the air in tubing ~horizontally down the wall with some vertical dead leg drops to let the water vapor drop out of the air, then run it in the opposite direction down the wall with a few more drops, then place your filters towards the end of the run. If you do something like this, most of the water will drop out into the dead legs before it reaches your filter. The longer the run, the more time the air can cool and the water drop out. I get probably 99% of the water in the three drops that I have and very little in the filter bowl.
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,922
Location
oregon
Do not get an air line lubricator and put it at the compressor. Once you contaminate the lines with oil you will not be able to get clean air out of them, only oiled air and that is not wanted in 99% of shop uses. If you must have a lubricator then it goes at the input of the machine you intend to lubricate.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
J

Jhass

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
12
This is all great ideas, thank you very much. To get by for now I went with 1/2" flex hose 4' long to a filter regulator combo. I will reduce the 1/2" down to a 50' 3/8 hose reel for now. When the weather warms up enough to consider painting I will add more filters.

Thanks for all suggestions, gives me a lot to consider with my final set up later.
 

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
one of the best things I've done to mine, is add a cooler (just a transmission radiator/cooler with a fan), inbetween the compressor and the tank. The water trap after the cooler gets I would say 95% of the moisture out of the system before the air ever gets into the tank.

I have the fan setup to a pressure switch so it only turns on when the compressor is actively compressing air. Hot air with moisture goes in, cool dry air comes out. (it's not quite finished in this photo, I added a shroud to the fan, and a cover to the electrical box). This setup has been working nicely for several years now. And my water trap after the tank never has any water in it, even if I'm using the air all day. The water trap has an automatic drain that purges when it gets full, so I never have to mess with it. IMG-0855.jpg
 
Last edited:

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
as far as tools go, I have alot of air tools, but the ones that get used the most are my small angle and straight die grinders. I like the lower powered 0.4HP grinders from Aircat, plenty of power to spin 2" disks, and they are very quiet.

I run 1" hard line to the regulator and hose reel (about 30 feet away from the tank), and a 1/2" hose reel. I'll often put a 6" long flexible 3/8" line/whip at the end, for times when I need a more flexible hose while working.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
J

Jhass

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
12
one of the best things I've done to mine, is add a cooler (just a transmission radiator/cooler with a fan), inbetween the compressor and the tank. The water trap after the cooler gets I would say 95% of the moisture out of the system before the air ever gets into the tank.

I have the fan setup to a pressure switch so it only turns on when the compressor is actively compressing air. Hot air with moisture goes in, cool dry air comes out. (it's not quite finished in this photo, I added a shroud to the fan, and a cover to the electrical box). This setup has been working nicely for several years now. And my water trap after the tank never has any water in it, even if I'm using the air all day. The water trap has an automatic drain that purges when it gets full, so I never have to mess with it. IMG-0855.jpg
Damn.... that looks good. I have an old power steering cooler that may come to good use then.
 

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
mine was never used in a vehicle, but that's a good point if you're going to repurpose a used one
 

GeoBruin

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
3,757
I've done a lot of the recommended upgrades over the years, pex-al-pex distribution system, after cooler, various filters, hose reel, etc. I also kicked my compressor out of the shop into a dedicated acoustically insulated shed a couple years ago, which was a huge win.

Two of the less **** but most useful upgrades were wiring the compressor to a pool timer so it shuts off every day just after "quittin' time". This prevented it kicking on in the middle of the night or while I was out of town. The problem is, whenever I went to use it, I would have to pump up from nearly zero because it would leak down over time. So recently, I installed an electric ball valve right after the tank, that's wired to the same circuit as the compressor, which is on the timer. So every day, when the time turns off the circuit, the ball valve closes. That way, whenever I bump the compressor on, it doesn't run at all, and it's already full of air.
 

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
I've done a lot of the recommended upgrades over the years, pex-al-pex distribution system, after cooler, various filters, hose reel, etc. I also kicked my compressor out of the shop into a dedicated acoustically insulated shed a couple years ago, which was a huge win.

Two of the less **** but most useful upgrades were wiring the compressor to a pool timer so it shuts off every day just after "quittin' time". This prevented it kicking on in the middle of the night or while I was out of town. The problem is, whenever I went to use it, I would have to pump up from nearly zero because it would leak down over time. So recently, I installed an electric ball valve right after the tank, that's wired to the same circuit as the compressor, which is on the timer. So every day, when the time turns off the circuit, the ball valve closes. That way, whenever I bump the compressor on, it doesn't run at all, and it's already full of air.
mine will hold a constant pressure for weeks without use (when I'm on christmas break, for instance). I think if the system has to run and pressurize every morning when it hasn't been intentionally drained, you need to find the leaks and fix them. I have a switch to turn off my compressor, it's right next to the light switch so when I turn out the lights for the night I also turn off the compressor. no need for a timer. But the tank and full system stays pressurized, the next time I use it I turn on the lights and turn on the compressor. The compressor never kicks on until after I start using air for a bit.

I never drain my air system, even when I replaced the compressor, I just shut the system off with ball valves, and then turned them on again when the new compressor was ready to go the next day.

The only time I've flipped the compressor switch and heard it turn on in the morning was when one of my water traps was somehow clogged and the drain stuck open over night. I disassembled and cleaned it, and it hasn't had a problem since.
 
Last edited:

GeoBruin

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
3,757
mine will hold a constant pressure for weeks without use (when I'm on christmas break, for instance). I think if the system has to run and pressurize every morning, you need to find the leaks and fix them. I have a switch to turn off my compressor, it's right next to the light switch so when I turn out the lights for the night I also turn off the compressor. But the tank and full system stays pressurized, the next time I use it I turn on the lights and turn on the compressor. The compressor never kicks on until after I start using air for a bit.
I'm very happy for you (seriously, I am) but there are probably 30 fittings in my system. One day I may get around to checking all of them, but that project is not on my short list. Also, it doesn't run every morning. I'm a guy at home in his garage. If I'm lucky, I get to work on projects on the weekend. So in that week between times when I fill my compressor, it leaks down, sometimes not all the way, but usually below the cut in pressure.
 

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
I'm a guy at home working in my carport, I'm a weekend warrior too :) when I get home from work most nights I work on projects in the yard or carport. I would suggest if the fittings are leaking, using a thicker tape on the pipe threads, I have rarely had them leak with the thicker grey tape you get at lowes.
 

GeoBruin

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
3,757
I'm a guy at home working in my carport, I'm a weekend warrior too :) when I get home from work most nights I work on projects in the yard or carport. I would suggest if the fittings are leaking, using a thicker tape on the pipe threads, I have rarely had them leak with the thicker grey tape you get at lowes.
It's very likely not the pipe fittings that are leaking, but the pex-al-pex fittings. I have a half dozen drops around the shop, each made from a tee fitting, so that's three joints each, and then there's the straight fittings that go into the block at the bottom each drop, the tees for the hose reel, filter/regulator setup, motor guard filter, etc. I crank on them until they squeak, but it seems like maybe I need a little more. Also, I have some northern tool knock-offs mixed in with the rapid air stuff and they use a little plasticy bushing instead of o-rings, so those are probably suspect as well.
 

GeoBruin

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
3,757
Yes, yes, and yes, for me anyway. I finally picked up a used ReelCraft and it was a game changer.
Not a reelcraft, but if one is looking for a low barrier of entry hose reel, Harbor freight has this one on sale this weekend.


I have coxreels and reelcraft reels, and I don't know that they're worth 5 times as much.
 

danielbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
958
I agree with that. I have a cheap one and a nice one. The nice one is more sturdy, but they both work perfectly fine, they always catch and release like they should.
 

Nutria

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
809
Location
Eastern Sierra
I finally picked up a used ReelCraft
I have coxreels and reelcraft reels, and I don't know that they're worth 5 times as much.
Absolutely, but the key word is "used." The HF is $100, and my Reelcraft was $75 (but nine years ago, so call it $100 now). Those deals are out there if one can wait. The OP isn't sure at this point if a reel is even a need, so waiting for a good used deal is an option. And of course just getting an HF reel now and moving on works fine too.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom