Another compressor flywheel removal question

[amh]

Hi, got my hands on a Speedaire 5Z404 two stage compressor. It came without a belt guard. To mount one on I need to remove the pump flywheel.

I unscrewed the single bolt securing the flyweel on the shaft and tried to pull it with my large 2-jaw craftsman gear puller. It will not move!

I don't want to over-torque the puller, because the flywheel is made of aluminum and I fear the puller can cut into the back of the flywheel.

Anyone have a 5Z404 that they removed the flywheel on? (Speedaire 5Z404 is a Campbell hausfeld TF2101)

Any tips/suggestions appreciated before I get the torch out. I intend to heat the aluminum flywheel inner hub.

Unlike the attached picture, the Speedaire came with a 16.5 inch dia single belt groove pulley, a 70 inch BX belt. A bit surprised to see this on a 5 hp rated pump. All else the same.
(Unlike stubborn flywheel, motor sheave was steel on steel, released key set screw and using same puller it slid right off)

 

[The Cobbler]

I think a lot of the time the belt guard is slit so it passes over the pump shaft? you could leave the pulley in place .
probably a good smack with pressure on the puller would pop it off tho

 

[theoldwizard1]

Two person operation. One person uses two large screwdrivers/pry bars to place equally s[paced outward pressure on the flywheel. Second person hits the compressor crankshaft with a good sized hammer. The flywheel should pop right off

 

[930dreamer]

If the flywheel has a slit through it, tap a chisel into it to spread it open a bit.

 

[pepi]

I think a lot of the time the belt guard is slit so it passes over the pump shaft? you could leave the pulley in place .
probably a good smack with pressure on the puller would pop it off tho

Oh hell yes ........ will have two slits pump shaft and motor ...

Just dumb to have it any other way ....

Pep

 

[amh]

Unfortunately, the back belt guard does not have a vertical slit for the motor and compressor shafts, though I may look into making them by cutting out some of the belt guard as a last resort.

I will also try whacking the loaded gear puller, that'll be like the prybar suggestion. I did not see a set screw in the flywheel key, but I will look again - that would add resistance. (The parts diagram did not show a flywheel key set screw, but it did not show a key either, and it showed a different two groove flywheel)

 

[metalmagpie]

Kroil. Heat. Repeat.
If your puller isn't doing the job, go look at a Proto.
If the sheave is aluminum and the motor's main shaft isn't, there is likely some galvanic corrosion going on. Not the best design ..

metalmagpie

 

[amh]

The puller is beefy enough, I just did not want to over-torque it fearing I'd harm the aluminum flywheel. Maybe I'll put some wider steel shims under the jaws to minimize digging in or breakage.

You are right about the aluminum to high carbon steel contact (dissimilar metals headache), not as bad aluminum to stainless but not a great idea if the aluminum gets wet somehow. Once off, I will look into putting some insulating film on the shaft.

 

[pepi]

This is crazy to chance fking up the pulley or compressor shaft for a belt guard. IMO you are getting bad advice. Consider the struggle you are having trying to remove a pulley.. What makes you think it will slide right back on again, going beat it on with hammer?



When about ten minutes, using the compressor and a cut off tool. Will put two slots in this piece, and allow you to slide the rear guard down over the shafts

Using masking tape to mark the slot. If the tape in not wide enough, just run another strip and build the width to match the shaft, cut along the tape edge done. Repeat for the motor shaft...

Another advantage you will have the pulleys in place. That allows you to check and adjust the clearances for the back and front spacing.. its a no brainier.


Pep

 

[NitroShark]

Are you trying to pull on the small hub of the pulley or the outside diameter of the pulley??

You should be using the small inside hub.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I am with pepi. The risk may not be worth it. If the pulley has no key or setscrew, it may be heat shrunk onto the shaft. Normally, a .002 undersized per inch of shaft diameter is used, so that sucker may really be on there but good.

 

[amh]

Yes, I was placing the gear puller on the inner flywheel hub.

 

[NitroShark]

Install the puller. He the hub up with a torch or map gas about 300°. Smack the end of the puller.

If there’s enough meat on the hub you can drill and tap it and make a puller, similar to harmonic balance style puller and remove it.

 

[Zexx]

Skip the heat, spray with penetrating oil, and use an impact driver or wrench on the puller. The impacts really help break free the shaft and pulley. This is my go to way to pull sheaves off of blower motors and such, works great!

 

[matt_i]

Screwdrivers and hammers....ya...

Heat is a good idea.

Building a better puller is a better idea.

But the best idea is making the guarding so it drops over top of the shafts. When you have a solid (immovable with normal means) fit from hub to shaft with a straight bore setup you have already resolved one of the most common fail modes that kills rotating machinery. I'd keep it that way. Modify the guarding which is a conglomeration of thin metal rods....

 

[taumac]

I had same issue with my compressor and took a clip off one of the fan blades. I said F this and cut slots in the guard and slipped it over the motor and pump shafts.

 

[Lwel9226]

As a construction millwright I have built and or installed hundreds if not thousands of belt or chain guards and removing the sheave would always be the very last choice.....
Modify the guard to fit..... Good luck on your project....

LynnW

 

[CraigStu]

I agree w/ Pepi and Occupant. Modify the shield.

 

[nickleone]

For about 8 years in a past life I built compressor packages. Cut slits in the guard.

Nick

 

[jetlag]

Totally agree with the other posters. Modifying the belt guard should be the go-to option, especially considering it hasn't even been installed yet (!), so it literally could not be an easier fix.

If your pulley is balanced as is, why screw with it? I can think of a few things that could go wrong trying to force the pulley off, literally nothing but an upside to modifying the belt guard to make it easier to install/remove.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I think a lot of the time the belt guard is slit so it passes over the pump shaft?

^^This.^^ I have rarely seen a belt guard on a compressor that wasn't two piece on the shaft side, top and bottom.

Tommy

 

[amh]

With such an overwhelming number of inputs to modify the guard, i will do so.
Thank you all, advice very much appreciated.