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Attach to 1" Solid Steel Plate

nolimits76

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Jul 11, 2013
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Oklahoma
Looking to buy a vintage safe and convert to house my guns. Safe is made from 1" solid steel plate. Inside currently is a big rectangle, roughly 67" x 39" x 39".

I'd like to install some shelves but not certain the best way to attach anything to the plate.

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matt_i

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On the brainstorm list...rare earth magnets, 100% silicone caulk, an expanding design which uses a cam or screw threads to push out against the inside of the walls and hold via friction. You could tig weld some tabs or pins but that's climbing the difficulty scale somewhat. You could drill-point very shallow holes and use cone pointed setscrews as a variation of the expansion but with more positive holding.
 

king nero

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Is that correct, 1" steel plate? Thing must weigh a tonne and a half...

I'd prefer wood shelves, as they are easier on the guns. Easiest way is to fix 4 slotted rails for shelves in the corners (by means of drilling+tapping, welding, or just making the shelves so that, once installed, they cannot move anymore).

Will be easy then to make a number of shelves and installing them at your required height, and changing later if/when your collection grows (gun collections do have a tendency to grow).
 
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American Locomotive

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I think the magnets or the industrial adhesive are really good ideas. Especially the magnets, as you could reconfigure the safe if you wanted.

Also are you sure it's 1" plate? I did some rough math and it says that safe is going to weigh near 4,000 pounds. How are you getting it into your house?
 

larry4406

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I think the magnets or the industrial adhesive are really good ideas. Especially the magnets, as you could reconfigure the safe if you wanted.

Also are you sure it's 1" plate? I did some rough math and it says that safe is going to weigh near 4,000 pounds. How are you getting it into your house?

I had a house construction project where the owner put in a gun safe that we used a crane to place it in its final position while we were craning the roof trusses into position.
 

bugnut

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Depends on the weight on the shelf. I was thinking spring tension rods and 1 hole cable clamp, wooden shelf.

clamp> https://www.mscdirect.com/industrialtools/1-inch-cable-clamp.html
tension rod> Rod-Desyne-Spring-Tension-Round

or if you want more support how about 4 sticks of 1x with a shelf standard mounted on them, they can be affixed to the cabinet with screw on rare earth magnets and then fully adjustable shelves, might work without the 1x backing...

shelf standard> zinc-shelf-standards from Rocklers
 

2oolhound

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If welding is out build a wood box inside that could include shelves, drawers etc.

I'd do this. Fit the outer frame so it's a squeeze fit inside, then build the shelves or gun cradles. You could make cradle type racks that slide out on drawer slides for loading. Guns would stand sideways, about 12 to 15 in a row.

This kind of idea:

attachment.php


Small short guns could go on one side so a small section of horizontal drawers could go on the bottom at one side under the short gun section.
 

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jmarkwolf

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Southeast Michigan
Magnets? Strong ones?

Wouldn't magnetizing the guns and or gun parts be a concern?

I once magnetized much of a Bridgeport milling machine by setting a Harbor Freight magnetized parts bowl on the table. Thank God it diminished once I figured out the culprit.
 

BD1

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Welding would be the quickest or drill and tap. If you have long guns, weld up a slide in freestanding unit.
Build your own wood ones and set inside or buy what fits your needs.
 
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tracy.reich

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Feb 21, 2009
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lawton ok
Build an internal skeleton out of uni-strut and then use the material of choice for shelves. This will allow you to keep flammables ie: wood from touching the steel. could also line with drywall to increase fire rating.
 

blazemaster83

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Lacey, Wa.
Drill and tap with a mag drill but don't drill all the way through. Mount steel angle around perimeter. Use whatever panel material you feel like, that's stiff enough

He could be putting the safe in a garage or somewhere with a concrete floor.

2oolhounds idea is pretty slick if you could find something for a decent price, and happened to fit perfect.
 
OP
N

nolimits76

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Oklahoma
Is that correct, 1" steel plate? Thing must weigh a tonne and a half...

Yes, truly 1" thick steel plate. Not sure the exact weight, but yes, very heavy.

One of the things I like about the safe is the thickness. I believe this was used in a bank in a prior life, as it had time lock mechanisms that have already been removed.


I had a house construction project where the owner put in a gun safe that we used a crane to place it in its final position while we were craning the roof trusses into position.

House is built. So no crane to move in, but I do have crane access if needed, lol.

Also have access to other equipment. Was primarily thinking of a skid steer with forks. I believe it can handle 4-6k pounds.


I'd do this. Fit the outer frame so it's a squeeze fit inside, then build the shelves or gun cradles. You could make cradle type racks that slide out on drawer slides for loading. Guns would stand sideways, about 12 to 15 in a row.

This kind of idea:

attachment.php


Small short guns could go on one side so a small section of horizontal drawers could go on the bottom at one side under the short gun section.

Wow, love the idea of the slides/drawers. Thank you!


Build an internal skeleton out of uni-strut and then use the material of choice for shelves. This will allow you to keep flammables ie: wood from touching the steel. could also line with drywall to increase fire rating.

This is a great idea. The safe is not fire rated as it sits. Adding some fire gyp, fire caulk and appropriate seals is a great idea.
 

fourbyford

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North Idaho... almost Canada!
...another vote for uni-strut... use for uprights like shelf standards in kitchen cabinets...
There is a huge variety of parts that will bolt to the strut... or, fabricate your own!

...D
 

AZ Pete

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Aug 15, 2011
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Central Arizona
Yes, truly 1" thick steel plate. Not sure the exact weight, but yes, very heavy.



One of the things I like about the safe is the thickness. I believe this was used in a bank in a prior life, as it had time lock mechanisms that have already been removed.









House is built. So no crane to move in, but I do have crane access if needed, lol.



Also have access to other equipment. Was primarily thinking of a skid steer with forks. I believe it can handle 4-6k pounds.









Wow, love the idea of the slides/drawers. Thank you!









This is a great idea. The safe is not fire rated as it sits. Adding some fire gyp, fire caulk and appropriate seals is a great idea.



just be sure you can get behind the open drawers to retrieve anything that falls behind them... I think it it a great idea too.
 

tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
Careful, advice from a magnet lover-

shear strength, even with rare-earth/neo magnets is very weak compared to pull strength. You'd be better off suspending from the top via cable.

IIRC, guns are heavy, and likely the shelving material as well.

Personally, I liked the expanding shelving idea. Build shelves about 1/2" narrower then opening, add bolt/nut combo to expand out to grab walls. Or simple wood blocks on sides and shelf across.
 

PugetDude

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Superstition Mountains, AZ
Wedge-fit 2x2"s all the way around the perimeter, pocket screws to hold them together. This will give you a wooden frame that you can then trim out with additional 2x2's to support shelves, sheet with plywood, etc. As long as the internal wood frame can't move out of position, you can pretty much do what you want with shelves, slides, gun racks, etc.
 

bradpac

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Sep 8, 2013
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Central TX
Build out the inside with some plywood, drill it for adjustable shelf pegs, easy to reconfigure and you don't have to worry about dragging metal on metal inside the safe itself.

My father in law is a bank vault and safe lock smith. I've helped him move a few bank and jewelry solid plate safes with a pallet jack or a ramp to get it in the door. Once in the house a heavy furniture dolly works real well for smaller ones or for the real heavy ones, wooden dowels are the best, just roll it into place get it to pivot on one dowel and lift it with a bar and set it down, way easier than trying to get a dolly out from under it and with two guys you can move pretty quick.
 

toplessHO

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Oct 20, 2014
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central florida
Build out the inside with some plywood, drill it for adjustable shelf pegs, easy to reconfigure and you don't have to worry about dragging metal on metal inside the safe itself.

My father in law is a bank vault and safe lock smith. I've helped him move a few bank and jewelry solid plate safes with a pallet jack or a ramp to get it in the door. Once in the house a heavy furniture dolly works real well for smaller ones or for the real heavy ones, wooden dowels are the best, just roll it into place get it to pivot on one dowel and lift it with a bar and set it down, way easier than trying to get a dolly out from under it and with two guys you can move pretty quick.

I use thinwall (emt) tubing to move heavy gear around. Cut several pieces about a ft longer than width of safe and keep them in rotation while rolling it.
For very heavy objects change to schedule 40 pipe.
 
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