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Bench Top Material

SteelArt

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Oct 11, 2010
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228
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Hi All, am looking at some good options for benchtops. Leaning towards 3mm 304 Stainless at the moment but thought I would see what else is out there.

Any other suggestions ?

It is for a Car / Fabrication workshop, I don't weld on them as that is what weld benches and jig tables are for. Looking at about 2ft wide. Mostly they will see tools, car parts, greasy stuff etc and some hit and scuff sort of work.
 
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Steevo

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Aug 18, 2009
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43.49600, -112.04300
I like steel. Plain old 12ga steel.
My benches:
IMG0318-M.jpg

IMG1070-M.jpg
 

Neppo1345

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Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Missouri
I'm currently working on acquiring some old bowling alley to build a small bench in my apartment. It's 3 inches thick, and hard as a rock (so to speak), I think it would make an excellent bench top if you're not going to need to weld on it.
 

mtwaterguy

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Nov 16, 2007
Messages
3,518
Currently finishing up two benches. One 3/16 steel, the other yellow pine bowling alley lane.
 

mastiff0

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Jun 30, 2009
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76
I've always wanted to make a top out of concrete- cheap and strong.
 

Steevo

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I've always wanted to make a top out of concrete- cheap and strong.

I think concrete counters are great in a kitchen or for a barbecue island, but can't see it as a workbench surface. You would always have to be careful about not pounding on anything that was sitting on the bench, so you didn't transfer impacts to the concrete and chip or crack it. And wouldn't it be susceptible to oil stains? You can seal concrete, but spray solvents like WD40, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, etc, remove the sealer.
 

tomshep

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Sep 24, 2011
Messages
441
I went down to HD and bought a 8' section of pre-fab counter with formica on it. Cost was about $110 as I recall and it had a backsplash so I don't lose stuff off the back. For my needs it has worked really well. It is sitting on 2x12s laying flat so there is plenty of strength below it.

Tom
 

92GreenYJ

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Jun 9, 2012
Messages
488
Location
San Diego, CA
My current bench is topped with 1/2" MDF. Its held up pretty well under the grease and grime, when one side got real bad I just flipped it over. Its worked well for me for years, but in the fall when the wife and I buy a house and i build out my dream shop in the garage I may try something different
 

Jack Olsen

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Mar 22, 2009
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Los Angeles
24" is not very deep -- you might find that part frustrating.

Aside from that, any non-porous surface would be great for fluid-dripping parts. Stainless is great if you can afford it.
 

icecactus

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Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
302
Craftsman makes some nice stainless workbench tops. They are only 24" deep though. I wish they were 28". If your patient and wait for a sale you can get them fairly cheap. I picked up a 8' long one a while back for $158. I bought 2 for a 16' long bench im making.
 

deepsea

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May 28, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Denham Springs, LA
Two sheets of 3/4 inch plywood laid over one another. If you keep it inexspensive you wont go into convulsions when you do mess it up. Ever spill paint on a $400 top? Consider whats underneath that fancy stainless. Plywood or mdf
 

Mister Moose

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May 24, 2012
Messages
131
I'm going to try formica from a friend's kitchen remodel. Real recent faux granite. If I ****** it up, it was free. Make some wood end caps, incorporate the backsplash.
 
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92GreenYJ

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Jun 9, 2012
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488
Location
San Diego, CA
Two sheets of 3/4 inch plywood laid over one another. If you keep it inexspensive you wont go into convulsions when you do mess it up. Ever spill paint on a $400 top? Consider whats underneath that fancy stainless. Plywood or mdf

Lol. I agree completely. As mentioned, 1/2" MDF for my top. When one side got too u slightly I just flipped it to the clean side. They do get messy. This was taken before I flipped it to the clean side

DSCN0753.jpg


Grease stains, oil stains, spray paint and overspray, etc.
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Location
Napa Valley, California
I'm a fan of double 3/4" ply (I think that's 19mm ply for you) for the top...

The bench on the left is about 15 years old (but it spent part of that time in storage). The stains on the top are from cleaning up aluminum, after fabrication, with isopropyl alcohol. The double sheet of plywood is as sturdy as it gets. I beat on that bench with just about anything and it just takes it.

The bench on the right is just a few weeks old. On that one, I used construction-grade plywood for the bottom layer, then smoother hardwood ply for the top, for a smoother top...
View media item 20570
I think that if I was working on engine parts a lot, I'd want some sort of metal over the top (stainless if you can afford it, cold rolled steel if not), so it would be easy to wipe off and wouldn't absorb oil and grease. I suppose you could have a sheet metal cap built (fold the edges to make a shallow, upside down tray) and just put it on the bench when you need it.

M_P
 

JDS968

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Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
247
Location
Miami Beach, FL
If I were to get a Lista roll cab with the stainless steel cover, do you guys think it would stand up to tossing heavy parts on it, hitting stuff with (reasonably sized) hammers, etc?

stainless-steel-cover.jpg


Or would it be likely to dent badly without a wood core to cushion the steel?

Currently I do most of this on a workbench with a powdercoated sheet steel work surface with little or no support, and while the surface has not dented appreciably, it does flex a LOT when I'm working on it (which obviously I don't like one bit, but I don't know whether that flexing is all that's keeping it from getting dented). I also have a bare steel top over some kind of core (no idea what kind) on my rolling service cart, seems to hold up extremely well but the surface is very porous so it's hard to clean.
 

balane

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May 4, 2011
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Location
Pacific Northwest
I'm using 1/2" thick high density rubber right now. It's exactly the same stuff you see on the floors of ice skating rinks, black rubber. This stuff can really take a beating, it's heavy duty and it weighs a lot. I use it on my long work bench and also on top of my roll cab. I had butcher block before this.. and formica even... but I think I'll be sticking with this rubber for a while.

.
 

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deepsea

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May 28, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Denham Springs, LA
Autopart stores and Walmart usually carry pans that are intended to lay in or put your drain bucket in when changing oil. 2' x 3' with a 1/4 inch lip on the perimeter for 10 bucks. Lay this pan/sheet over your workbench surface and smile. Protection from solvents, paint, grease and angry women. Its better than an all metal top cause you can now remove it and go pressure wash it without hosing down unintentionally. You need this pan to work on your vehicles anyway. 90 weight transfer case lube dont wash out
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
X2 - probably stall mat. That is super tough stuff. Can be cut with a sharp utility knife but will stop a circular saw cold.

There is no protection from angry women - run away.
 

bmw57isetta

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Apr 27, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Austin, Texas
I currently have a Whalen/Costco workbench with a 8' x2' x1.5" butcher block top. I'd like to pop the 8' Craftsman SS top on it but it appears that it is already mounted to a sheet of MDF. Question is, can the SS top be easily removed or is it glued down? I'd like to know before I pull the trigger.
 

icecactus

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May 17, 2011
Messages
302
I currently have a Whalen/Costco workbench with a 8' x2' x1.5" butcher block top. I'd like to pop the 8' Craftsman SS top on it but it appears that it is already mounted to a sheet of MDF. Question is, can the SS top be easily removed or is it glued down? I'd like to know before I pull the trigger.

There is some type of adhesive on it. The MDF underneath seems to have some type of sealant on it.

Why would you want to take it off? just remove the butcher block top and replace with the CC stainless. its the same measurements.
 

balane

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May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
Balane,where did you get that material? Cost? How did you cut it?
I got it from eBay, Got about 6' x 4' of it and I put it on many flat surfaces in my garage. I especially like it under my bench mounted power tools because it does dampen vibrations some. The seller has a lot. This is what I got;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290645831134

It is not exactly easy to cut but but with several, firm passes of a sharp razor knife you will get through it. I don't exactly enjoy cutting it though. It smells like a brand new tire and is very heavy.
 

bmw57isetta

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Apr 27, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Austin, Texas
Thanx Icecactus! Man you're fast. I had a sneaking suspicion that was the case. I'm not hellbent to take the top off, just wanted a heads-up on what might be involved. I'm sure there's someone out there that can use the butcher-block slab. I'd buy a base and keep using it but unfortunately I don't have the room.

This site is worth its weight in gold.
 
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