Boring large deep holes

[Innovate1]

The framers got the wall short where the electric panel goes. The did single top plate on other internal walls but somehow got this one wrong. The tipped it up and said - oh, it's short and added another top plate. Then it was still short and added another. Then a 2 x 6 on top of that for fastening the ceiling. So I have 6 inches of wood to bore through! Not bad with an auger bit but hole saws for conduit is slow going and the lock ring on the hole saw is bigger than the smaller saws so it limits depth. I have resorted to taking the lock ring off and relying on just the threads before for deep holes. Could have cut a larger hole in the first layer but didn't think of that until I had gotten too far to pilot the bigger saw.

Also put a block on a stud so I can use a short board to apply some more force to the back of the drill. That helped quite a bit when drilling from the bottom.

I am within about half an inch of getting through after drilling from both sides. May take a small drill and drill a bunch of holes around the outside and see if I can bust out the middle.

Have a large pipe hole to cut through three layers in another spot but no issue with depth limit on the large holes.

 

[ycgoat]

That *****, off the too of my head,

Use a 2” hole saw and drill 5 or 6 holes.

They make bit extenders for say paddle bits.

Or cut notches instead of drilling holes, then cover with metal plates before hanging wall board


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[AntonLargiader]

You could nail a thin board over it all from the bottom to cut through with a bigger hole saw. It would act as the pilot.

Or put the panel somewhere else.

 

[PugetDude]

Tell the framers who f*cked it up to come fix it.

 

[yatg]

Can you just cut out the extra lower top plates in that bay.

 

[Bert_]

I've got some self feeding forsner bits that a great for this.

 

[Norcal]

Milwaukee self feed bits work well, have to admit that I like their replacement for the self feed bits, being able to replace the cutting edge in the field , not having to take them to a sharpening shop is great because finding a good place to sharpen tools is not easy.

 

[tarbellb]

Got any (concrete) coring bits? They will blast right through, and typically very long.

A long bit and a series of holes seems like the easiest solution.

 

[tarbellb]

Or if you want to invest some $, you can get the newer Spyder hole saws. They run a extra long arbor that would reach, and a nice little upgrade.

 

[Innovate1]

Can you just cut out the extra lower top plates in that bay.

That's a simple solution that I think would work fine. Why didn't I think of that? Sawzall will make quick work of that.

 

[Jim greengo]

I've got some self feeding forsner bits that a great for this.

Exactly.

 

[dogdog]

They sell those hex extensions attachments for those boring bits... both 1/4 and 3/8 size hex locking extensions. I have both in 6" and 12" or was that 16" in lengths so... you can go as deep as you wanted

 

[Farmall450]

Tell the framers who f*cked it up to come fix it.

Or at least buy you the proper bit.

Chances are that will mess up someone else down the road if unaddressed.

 

[e36jon]

I'll put a vote in for Bosch 'Daredevil' spade bits + an extension. These bits are incredible! They have the screw feed of an auger bit and the short non-jamming body of a typical spade bit. I have drilled hundreds of holes with them doing remodeling here, all with a cordless drill, and couldn't be happier with their functionality. I have a drawer full of auger bits that I don't use anymore...

 

[nadogail]

I'll put a vote in for Bosch 'Daredevil' spade bits + an extension. These bits are incredible! They have the screw feed of an auger bit and the short non-jamming body of a typical spade bit. I have drilled hundreds of holes with them doing remodeling here, all with a cordless drill, and couldn't be happier with their functionality. I have a drawer full of auger bits that I don't use anymore...

thank you for adding to my knowledge.

 

[stokefire7]

You need to drill an exhaust hole for chip/dust extraction. Split the diameter with a 1/2 or 3/4" hole(just one hole in the circumference) , you'll notice the difference. Somebody else said : take some osb scrap , drill that to the larger size, screw to the plate, it will guide your hole saw.

 

[dutchgray]

I'll put a vote in for Bosch 'Daredevil' spade bits + an extension. These bits are incredible! They have the screw feed of an auger bit and the short non-jamming body of a typical spade bit. I have drilled hundreds of holes with them doing remodeling here, all with a cordless drill, and couldn't be happier with their functionality. I have a drawer full of auger bits that I don't use anymore...

Those things do go fast, you have to watch them on breakthrough as the spade is so short its easy to come right out the hole and its flys into things you don't want it to.

 

[Innovate1]

You need to drill an exhaust hole for chip/dust extraction. Split the diameter with a 1/2 or 3/4" hole(just one hole in the circumference) , you'll notice the difference. Somebody else said : take some osb scrap , drill that to the larger size, screw to the plate, it will guide your hole saw.

Good idea on the exhaust hole. The chips build up and plug the saw teeth even when pulling out to clear regularly.

 

[Terry D]

What size hole are you drilling and how deep

 

[Innovate1]

Lots and lots of various sizes! Auger bit works well for small ones - around 5/8". Question was related to larger ones. About 1.5" diameter. Have some places with multiple layers of 2x material up to 6" thick. Some are multiple studs to support headers and such but the main issue with big holes was explained in post #1. Will be picking up a self feeding bit or two.

 

[The Cobbler]

self feed auger bit on a Milwaukee angle drill will make short work of this, providing you don't hit any nails. what size hole do you need?

 

[Zeke]

You can buy a self feeding spade bit in 1- 1/2" but I'm not the one that wants to be on the driving end when it hangs up. They require some speed to work well whereas an auger bit can be turned literally by hand with a brace.

I like the idea of using an auger bit to drill as large of hole as you have a bit and then making a guide for a hole saw and taking out an inch at a time. Once started you won't need the guide. A Forstner bit, same thing but you can keep going.

As stated above, an auger bit of the needed size is what a pro would use. No time to fool around but you need some serious drill motor power to run one.

Be careful.

 

[brewchief]

I used to use the Milwaukee self feed bits but in the past 5-6 years have switched over to Milwaukee big hawg hoke saws, they have 3 carbide teeth. The big hawg bits can be turned with a good cordless drill if need be instead of needing a big right angle drill. They will cut nails although it's not the most fun thing ever. In new wood a 2" hole through 3 layers would take a couple minutes, takes a second to pull the piece out after each layer and you might need an extension, drilling each layer is only about 30 seconds.

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