CFL bulbs and color

[NewShockerGuy]

So I am wanting to get some bulbs and replace things in the garage and the new house.

Years ago I bought some CFL's and the color is nice white,... I ended up getting a few more and some are yellow and two of them are blueish light which I hate.

I was going to order some off 1000bulbs.com And I see they have a whole different color range...

Unforunately I can't find a site that shows ALL the different colors... I am not even sure if my eye could tell the difference other than if it's more yellow, more white, or more blue.. Wish some of these would have a comparrision of the different temps, it would make it a lot easier to choose a damn bulb...lol

They have the following:
2700k
3000k
3500k
4100k
5000k
6500k

Now if this was cars and HID I know right off the bat 3000k is yellow, 4300k is what my OEM philips bulbs put out as far as light which is white... 5000k is or should be around pure white light... and then anything higher just starts getting bluer, then purple..etc.

I don't want the crappy incadacent bulb look and I don't want the gouge my eyes out blue look... I would like nice clean white light like in an operating room, or a show garage look type deal..

Would 5000k produce that with CFL's?

This one has some good reviews:
https://1000bulbs.com/product/1587/FC23-FEIIS23W50.html

Was thinking about ordering those and putting them in the garage.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[BFBOB]

To my eyes, 5K lights look harsh and blue. Remember, CFL's are just fluorescents coiled up. Think "cool white", for decades the standard color. For me, 4K is right; not so yellowish as regular incandescents, not so bluish as regular fluorescents. Don't worry about esoterica like strictly speaking fluorescents, and any kind of discharge lamps, don't even have a color temperature. The rating is based on how it looks to the human eye, and is pretty accurate for comparison purposes.
Another question to throw into the mix is how old are you? Nearly everyone develops cataracts to some degree or other. Sixty-ish is a common age for starting the process, though like everything else it varies with the individual. One of the effects of cataracts is a gradual yellowing of your vision. For some, it happens so gradually they aren't even aware of it until after the implant surgery. For others, it's a real annoyance. If you're in that situation, you may find a more bluish light (higher color temperature) will make things look better.
And that's what it really comes down to: what looks good TO YOU.

 

[sselander]

You need to go to a place that has the different bulbs on display.
I also went with bulbs slight above 2700k, don't remember which ones.
It comes down to what you like.

For reference

Incandescent bulb: 2700K
direct sunlight: 5300k
daylight: 6000k

 

[matt151617]

This might help:

From left to right: 100 watt soft white incandescent, 2700K CFL, 3500K CFL, 4100K CFL, 5500K CFL, 6500K CFL. All CFLs are 100 watt replacements, ranging from 23 to 26 watts.

 

[rlitman]

That's an awesome display, and I couldn't have explained this any better, but there is one more number to keep in mind.
Color temperature just shows how a bulb can range from more orange to more blue.

CRI (Color Rendering Index) is just as important. The higher the CRI, the better the light will appear. The yellowish nature of some CFL's is because of a low CRI, and a non-continuous output spectrum.

 

[Highbeam]

4000k is the most normal looking, feel good, light. Not yellow, not blue, just right. It's the goldilocks color just like your HID lights.

The above is in reference to t8 tubes which SHOULD be the same as CFL.

 

[PRH44]

4000k is the most normal looking, feel good, light. Not yellow, not blue, just right. It's the goldilocks color just like your HID lights.

The above is in reference to t8 tubes which SHOULD be the same as CFL.

I would agree the 4100 to 3500 will give a good even light 3500 little warmer and 4100 a little cooler.
5500 is way to cool for me the blue really bothers me.
When you get it all figured out you can start working on LED comparisons.
Lamp technology is changing fast. The standard "A' lamp is sliding out of production. As LED drops in cost CFL will slide to the back of the pecking order.
Careful when purchasing Lamps get to Know what lumens level the lamp is rated and what that will give you. The wattage comparison on some package is not to reliable.In the future Lumens will be the standard rating as it relates to output.
The unfortunate aspect of light fixtures (luminaries)that require decorative lamps is limited selection in LED but they are increasing. CFL has a few sizes and shapes.
I hate the warm up time CFLs require, looking forward to see LEDS come down in price. but you never know the money mongers can step and regulations could dictate high prices kinda, sorta like gas. Once the A lamp is out of production they have us by the proverbial balls.

 

[BFBOB]

You need to go to a place that has the different bulbs on display.
I also went with bulbs slight above 2700k, don't remember which ones.
It comes down to what you like.

For reference

Incandescent bulb: 2700K
direct sunlight: 5300k
daylight: 6000k

Sounds good, and can be, but in this case I must disagree. Displays of this type that I've seen in Home Depot and similar places greatly exaggerate the color differences without giving any realistic indication of how your space will look illuminated with any one. The best way is to look at spaces similar to yours with different kinds of lighting and see which looks best to you. That's easier said than done!
Another thing is that color of lighting is not the only parameter. There is also directionality. It is also a personal preference thing. I dislike widely diffused lighting, whether from 8' fluorescents or halogens bounced off a white ceiling. To see well, I need some shadow/highlights. So, I prefer bulbs in reflector-fixtures, with some long tube flouorescents mixed in. Clip lights are great because you can put in whatever bulb works best for you. I have ~4K CFL's in clip lights for my machine lights.
Again, it's what looks best TO YOU, but to make an informed choice, you need to see total environments if possible.
I sure hope this is more helpful than confusing!

 

[ddawg16]

I have to agree that 4000 is about the right color.....

Here is an early pic of my garage.....on the right, those bulbs are 2700K PAR lamps I got from Costco....on sale...box of 4 for $4....yea...$1 each....

On the left are some 4000K CFL's....if you look at the wall, you can sort of tell the color difference. With my light gray walls, the 4000's are great.

I wish some of them would burn out so I could justify replacing them with 30w 4100K bulbs....

In the 12 years we have been in our house and using CFL's, I have replace...maybe 2 lamps.....

 

[jvitez]

Degrees Kelvin should be degrees Kelvin, but it doesn't seem to be so with regards to tubular or CFL's. 2700K is a regular incandescent bulb. 2700K in a fluorescent is a ghastly icteric yellow/orange. Yuk! I have 5000K CFL's in my closets and love the bright white look. It doesn't look blue to me in this application, unless I put one side to side against a 4100K one. For all around lighting, my favorite is 4100K, but I light bright looking illumination. 3500K is what I have as undercabinet lighting in our kitchen, though it's all T4 fluorescents.

 

[eljefino]

That's an awesome display, and I couldn't have explained this any better, but there is one more number to keep in mind.
Color temperature just shows how a bulb can range from more orange to more blue.

CRI (Color Rendering Index) is just as important. The higher the CRI, the better the light will appear. The yellowish nature of some CFL's is because of a low CRI, and a non-continuous output spectrum.

This! Ten years back when CFLs came out people complained that they were "too green" but it was (also) that they had a poor CRI.

The "fix" at the time was to make these orange/brown lower degree Kelvin "warm" flourescents that also have miserable CRI but hey at least they were "warmer."

Hard to make a phosphor that has good red output, this is what often goes missing from cool whites, but they are rapidly getting better at this.

CFLs from ten years ago kind of ruined it for some, but hit a store and look at some in person; they've gotten better. Pay a couple extra bucks for nice ones, not just the subsidized-by-your-electric-company chinese cheapies. (though the nice ones will also be chinese.)

Image ripped off from wikipedia... check out the gaps in the rainbow. A 100 CRI flourescent, or an incandescent or the sun, will have no gaps.

 

[MoonRise]

Pretty much what has been said.

Color temperature and CRI (Color Rendering Index) both help to 'describe' a light source.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index

Another variable is the brightness or lumen output.

And another consideration is if/when you have multiple light sources all visible at the same time (different bulbs, sunlight from a window, etc).

Because your brain can (and does indeed) interpret the light from a light source and tries to 'balance' it (sort of like the auto white balance setting on a digital camera, only you don't usually have to adjust any dials or settings for your brain ), your brain will (usually, unless the person is really concentrating on 'noticing' the quality of the light source) 'auto-correct' a light source to make it look 'white' if the brain can do so.

Single light source that isn't really far out of whack (like a low-pressure sodium light with its horrible CRI that the brain just can NOT process as 'white light' no matter how much it tries) and the brain pretty much 'auto-corrects' and 'sees' a white light. Mostly.

But if there are differeing lgiht sources all 'visible' at the same time/place, then the brain can't 'auto-corrrect' those differences and you (usually) end up seeing the variation in color temperature. Add in high and low CRI and you can usually see those differences either directly from one to another or in how reflected colors of other things are looking 'different'.

And some folks just plain are more 'sensitive' to lighting variations. Color temp and CRI.

If you have a window with actual daylight/sunlight visible or contributing to the area lighting, then I would suggest the 5000-5500K color temperature. The 4100K bulbs with actual sunlight will usually show a 'difference' between them. If no actual sunlight/daylight visible, then you may not notice much difference with a 4100K bulb alone (no sunlight/daylight) because your brain can do the 'auto-correct' on the light and think of it as 'white'.

For me, given a choice, I go for a high CRI (preferrable 90+, but really no lower than 85-86) "full-spectrum" (goes along with the high CRI, but slightly usually means less 'banding' in the spectrum as seen via the diffraction/refraction dispersion) 5000-5500k bulb. Especially if any actual daylight/sunlight can get in the area.

 

[JakeKohl]

That is some great information and makes a lot of sense. Thank you.