Chain link fence help

[scott37300]

Anyone installed chain link fence before? I have been searching the web on how to do it and have some questions.

I see you can drive the poles in the ground or dig holes and fill with concrete. It would be nice to just drive some posts in with a post driver but wondering how it would go if I were to hit a root or rock? Would save the concrete costs and digging a bunch of holes.

I can lay the fence out and from what I have read it seems pretty easy to put the peices together. I have a post driver, portaband, come along. Would need to get a stretch bar but think that is it.

Any advice or instructions on putting up a chainlink fence would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Scott

 

[koditten]

I did my own about 4 years ago. I got all the instructions from Home Depot. They had these free instruction pamphlets along with all the supplies. The instructions were very clear and I had no problem taking on and finishing this task.

Later
Kirk

 

[Haze08]

When I put up chainlink I dig and concrete the corner posts and the gate posts only. I use a driver on the line posts.

Kenny

 

[Gary S]

It depends a lot on the type of soil you have. I've installed quite a few chain link fences. I find it fastest and easiest to dig the holes and set all the posts in concrete. They are more stable that way in the long haul. Just make sure you get them straight and the correct depth. After the concrete sits for a day, you can hang the rails and fabric. You can stretch it by using a rope around the end post and the end strip in the fabric.

 

[scott37300]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Our soil is mostly clay. I would like to pound them in to save the digging and concrete costs but if it takes an hour to pound one post it wouldn't be worth the savings! Guess I could rent an auger and drill out all the holes in an hour or so and be done with it.

What diameter holes would I need for the poles? Can I put the poles in and cut them to length with the portaband once the poles are set?

Any other tricks or advice you learned doing yours?

 

[jerseywild]

I used a 9" auger on my skid steer when I put my fence up at my shop. Set each of your end post first and use a string line to set the line post. Set each line post to height no need to go back a cut later. If you are doing a long run strech the fence every 50' or so.

 

[Falcon67]

You really need to set the corners in concrete. You can crutch a corner post by placing another corner post about 4'~6' from it and using top rail to go from the top of the corner to the base of the next post. That and a proper top rail will help keep the corners up if not in cement. The fabric tension on both sides should keep the corner up but if there is slack on one side you might get lean. You cannot pound them in AFAIK - IMHO the line posts won't put up with that abuse. I'll trade your clay for my rock any day. There's good instructions on the web - basically you set your ends, run a sting line, set your line posts, install the top rail and hang the fabric. Not a complicated deal. You can use a terminal bar and 2-3 ratchet straps to stretch the fabric. You'll spend easy 3-4x on fittings what you spend on fabric. I did a 6' chain link single handed two years ago - dog liked it, loves to climb over it.

 

[Groovy]

I put a chain link around an acre I did it about 12 years ago +. I used some stakes and string to line it up. I dug the holes down 2’ with a post hole digger and used a level and some quickset put the poles in they were 6’ so 4’ stuck up. I made a brace out of a 2x4 with a V notch and C clamp on the post with a stake pounded into the ground and the 2x screwed to it with 2” drywall screws. I hooked the fence on the first corner with the brackets that slid over the poles and bolt through the fence. Complicated to discribe but very simple and prob not needed as the crete was pretty set as it was summer and pretty hot.

I took two 2X4’s and sandwiched the fence between it and used 4 bolts with wing nuts and put them through the holes I drilled into the 2x4’s equa distance apart. I secured a web tow ******** to each end of the 2x4’s and hooked that to another one then the hitch on my pick em up truck after I had it roughly laying up against the poles where I wanted it then SLOWLEY pulled it taught and secured with the wire things. I actually used wire ties at first, big *** ones then once I was sure it looked good I used the permanent ones. I put the top pieces on last. It looks great and professional. I spray the bars and post and fence about 5 years with silver rustoliuem or ACE brand paint to make it purrty. Took me a weekend and I did all by myself. It keeps the mutts in and out of my yard and the dogs too. I bought all the stuff at home depot. It is that green vinyl chain link in 50’ roll. I cut it with a cut off tool (whizzer air tool) but bolt cutters or hack saw will work. I bought two of the 4’ gates hung them on the poles set in crete and put a small gate on the other side (waste never used). A pretty easy project the digging is the hardest part. Uses a 4’ level make it right. Worked for me and my neighbor had one put in cost him a ton and mine looks better at least according to his warden (wife)

 

[Groovy]

As addendum I saw this thing it fit over the poles and had two handles it was like and 3" in diameter (not sure of diameter) but it fit over the poles and was weighted on top and you just slid it up and down and it would drive the poles in sort of like a pile driver. You might be able to rent that thing. using a sleg o matic 8 pounder or larger will smash the tops the groovy caps and upper bar holders won't work and I really think to keep it looking good and being strong setting them in crete is the way to go

 

[scott37300]

As addendum I saw this thing it fit over the poles and had two handles it was like and 3" in diameter (not sure of diameter) but it fit over the poles and was weighted on top and you just slid it up and down and it would drive the poles in sort of like a pile driver. You might be able to rent that thing. using a sleg o matic 8 pounder or larger will smash the tops the groovy caps and upper bar holders won't work and I really think to keep it looking good and being strong setting them in crete is the way to go

I have one of those post drivers, have used it for ground rods and those metal stakes. I just don't know how that would work on the fence posts, plus it seems like cement is the way to go. Think I will rent an auger for a day, last time I did they weren't that expensive and since it's getting cold here I don't feel like digging all day! Was kind of hoping someone would say that pounding the posts in goes really easy, oh well.

I will go to home depot tonight and see what they have and start figuring out the puzzle peices as to all the parts I will need. I found some good instructions on the web on chain link installs, was mainly wondering about setting the posts. I have set 4x4s in concrete before so that shouldn't be to hard.

Thanks for all the advice guys and if you have anymore advice or things to watch out for when building a fence please share!

 

[flat350]

Take the frost level into consideration when you are digging those holes.

 

[Gary S]

Take the frost level into consideration when you are digging those holes.

Frost level should not be an issue with a fence. No fence in this part of the world has ever been put deep enough to get below the frost line, and there is no shifting of the fence even when it is well above the frost line.
My chain link fence and my ornamental iron fences are both down about 18". My frost line is at 6 feet. It isn't an issue.

 

[pattenp]

Put up chain link fence about 3 months ago and I tried to drive the line post in with the hand post driver and it was near impossible to get the post to go in straight. Plus the driver smashed the ends of the post as to where the top caps would not go on. I ended up digging the holes and concreted all the post.

 

[scott37300]

Put up chain link fence about 3 months ago and I tried to drive the line post in with the hand post driver and it was near impossible to get the post to go in straight. Plus the driver smashed the ends of the post as to where the top caps would not go on. I ended up digging the holes and concreted all the post.

Ya I think after reading all this I will go the concrete route. Wish it was as simple as pounding the pole in!

 

[jhelrey]

I am a professional fence installer and live in MN. I can explain it more on the phone if you PM me your number. I also install them if you buy all materials for $3.00 a linear foot. Gates are typically extra but I will include them in the price.

 

[rhastings80]

I used this when I put in my fence:
http://www.hooverfence.com/catalog/chain-link-installation.pdf

 

[2chipped]

Here"s how install chain link fence in SE Ga . First GET A DIG PERMIT( PERMIT IS NOT GOOD until 72 HRS AFTER YOU CALL IN, ASK QUESTONS, IN GA THEIR MARKS HAVE A HALO OF 18IN ON EITHER SIDE . The utilities will mark their services to the meter,or, if the service runs thru your yard which is a utility easement, they will NOT mark after the meter[example if you have a gas line to your house, the line may continue after the meter and if you cut it ,its your repair bill] Tools you will need, hole digger , lineman's pliers,ratchet strap or come along,string,pull-bar,1/2 , and9/16 if you have gates, Start with your terminal (2 1/2in post)at all ends and corners,example is 4ft is set set at 48 in unless you have 3 terminations than it needs to be 48 3/4in . Now i'll prob get flamed but i have been installing fencing full-time for 6 yrs . Dig your holes 20 in deep gently tap post with bfh not a little hammer I use a 2lb sledge till you reach 48 in, fill hole half full with water slowly dump#40 of quickreet or sakrete then plumb post kick dirt till the hole is above grade ,then pack the dirt down until its packed re plumb then take water hose and rinse off post and wet the dirt down around the post hole then replumb. Next set post on the other end. Next step , run string about 6in to 2 ft high. Next step measure how long the run is, example 98ft recommendation is under 10ft between posts =9ft 8in is what i mark the location of holes using the string as a straight edge. Next step, move string and dig holes for the line posts( 1 5/8in)at 22inches deep. Next step set string(using our hypothetical 4ft fence as example) on outside of term post at 45 in high set your center post using above method 49ft at 45 in ,or if you have a crown in your yard set the post at the peak still at 45in clamp the string on that post then work away by 1/2s 98 ft 49 ft 19ft 6in if in doubt walk along with measure from ground to string set all posts, let concrete dry for at least a day. Next step install brace bands 3 on 4ft 4 on 5ft 5 on 6ft orienting the flat side out , if its a corner alternate them, 4ft gets 3 bands 1 way and 3 the other way .Next install top rail to make it easier always pull downhill if you can so you would start at low end with female in rail end cap and male pointing uphill installing all bolts and bands as you go. To save on materiel when you get to the end use the cutoff as a starter for the next run . Next roll out mesh and lace ( when lacing you need a male side and female if it has a male on top it will have a female on the bottom or vice versa to fix take out 1 link or flip 1 side) links together on the ground . Next flop mesh up to term post and temp tie to top rail, then drop tension bar in place and install 1 tie on top rail per section9ft 8in if you started from the left install tie on the rightside of eye top on linepost continue to the end. Next drop a tie bar in mesh about 8 ft from end , hook come-along or ratchet strap to puller to tiebar . Next ratchet until you have a slight amount of tension, then walk along and sight the top of the mesh is in a straight line . If there is a concave between ties and you pull it will always be there,so pick up center of concave and see if it stays up ,if not add a little tension, keep alternating pull then lift then go back another section. it's tight when you hit the side and a wave goes all the way to the end ,careful and don't bend the term post Next step cut mesh to length ,drop in tie bar and install 1 tie halfway between term and your pull tie bar slowly take pressure off the puller and install ties every 2-3ft on top rail and posts and your done . If you do gates 4ft is exactly 4ft between terminal posts.

 

[KustomZ]

I installed a chain link fence by driving posts and then driving in anchors that slip around the post and it worked out really well! The tools to install it had a metal plug that went inside the end of the post to prevent smashing the post while using a post driver.

 

[2chipped]

So what is the verdict Scott ?