Compressor not restarting :(

[mikeweb]

I have a little issue.. well actually a big issue. My compressor stops after it reaches a certain pressure (135psi i think?) without a problem, however when it dips below lets say 90psi it never kicks in, so basically I can run the tank dry and the darn thing will never start up again.

Also, I push down the lever to the Auto On position but nothing happens. I have to manually push these little contact tabs (which lock into place after) to get it to kick in, once the compressor reaches 135psi they spring out (disconnect).

I hope I make somewhat sense?

 

[jake00]

bad check valve?

 

[cj8lvr]

Mike,
Give IR a call.
I had a very similar problem with mine when I first got it - if not the exact same problem. They mailed me a whole new switch box. Kind of a pain to re-wire but it fixed it. IR has the best customer service I've ever dealt with second only to WARN - the folks that make vehicle winches (like you see on Jeeps etc).

I imagine they can help you better than all of us speculating on the cause of the problem. Granted, there's only so much that can go wrong with it - chances are, they'll diagnose it and mail you the part.

That's my .02 worth. Hour meter looks great! Good job.

 

[KCarGuy]

It's funny that this post came up, I have had the same issue with My IR compressor.
Mine ran fine for a 2 years, then this winter (during a deep freeze) it must have kicked on and the Motor ran, (pump tried, but oil was too thick) and burnt up a belt...motor ran for at least 24 hours. After replacing the belt, it kicked on (empty) and as it came up to pressure, seemed to slow down and stop, never kicking back on. If I drain it down and turn it off and on again, it comes up to pressure. I'm wondering if its not a switch and some harm done to the motor...I did an oil change (using IR oil).

 

[mikeweb]

^ Im going to give them a ring tomorrow as they are closed now

IR Quality my ****, this thing is 1.5yrs old and I rarely use it

 

[rickairmedic]

^ Im going to give them a ring tomorrow as they are closed now

IR Quality my ****, this thing is 1.5yrs old and I rarely use it

Mike if it makes you feel any better I have had my US General 60 gallon compressor from HF for 6 years and it still runs as well today as the first day I hooked it up and I use the heck out of it Heck even SWMBO uses it to blow out her Vacuum cleaner pretty regularly .


Rick

 

[mikeweb]

^ no, that makes me feel worse! LOL

 

[KCarGuy]

I also Have a 1954 Kellogg American 80 Gallon 5 HP 2 stage unit that runs like a champ. That baby is a BEAST! it weighs a ton. do you think that a Sears or a IR will be still running in 45 years?

 

[tdoty]

Sounds like a pressure switch. If IR isn't much help, you should be able to get a Square D replacement switch for around $20.

Not using the compressor enough may actually be part of the problem.

CarGuy, sounds like the pressure switch on yours too. If the motor wouldn't run (and had voltage to it) I would suspect there was some damage to the motor. If it runs and pumps up the tank, the motor is most likely just fine!

Tim D.

 

[79firebird]

Yep sounds like the pressure switch to me to. Have the same prob at my buddys place on his backup compressor only used when sand blasting its the little rubber diaframe in the switch . might just be a bad one. replaced one on my works compressor last month. only lasted 1 year

 

[mikeweb]

Ok, so I called IR and they only provide 1yr warranty on the switch, 2yr on the motor.

That means I'll either cough up the money for an IR unit (#54441738) or get another brand.

Can anyone recommend a reliable switch in a relatively small form factor (preferably)

 

[KCarGuy]

I use the IR as a back-up compressor and its upstairs in my loft...I'm pretty sure that if it kicks on/off during those bitter cold Chicago winter days and nights, its got to be hell on that diaframe.

 

[cj8lvr]

Check with Grainger - they may have one.
That's where I'd start and compare it to the price of the IR model.
Did they give you a price for their replacement switch?

 

[mikeweb]

^ $106.00+tx cdn, which is about $87+tx usd

 

[rburke65]

What brand of pressure switch is on there now? I'd vote for a Sq."D"

 

[cj8lvr]

Ouch.
Yep, I'd look for another brand.
Try Grainger...if you've got one nearby.

 

[mikeweb]

^ Yup, they have a location in Mississauga. The only issue is that im not sure if they carry the same stock as the US location. If all else fails I can always check ebay

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/Main/begin.do?language=en

Sorry for the n00b question but which one would best suit my needs? I think the current one is set for 90-135psi.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/categories/electrical/switches/pressure-switches

 

[cncjerry]

OK it looks like you are just 220V with no unloader valve if your actual HP of the motor is 2HP or less i suggest buying this one.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009040911290359&item=436-DS&catname=

 

[mikeweb]

^ Thanks

Wouldnt I need something with an adjustable ON/OFF PSI setting? As in I would need something to turn on at 90psi and stop at 135psi or so?

The one you list has a factory set psi on at 70 and an off setting at 100, I take i that one could adjust this for 135 or so? Or does cut-out range mean something else?

# Rated 1 1/2 HP at 115V
# Rated 2 HP at 230V
# Factory set PSI ON 70
# Factory set PSI OFF 100
# Adjust. Cut Out Range 70-150
# Size 3 3/4" x 3 5/8" x 2"
# Shpg 1-1/2 lb

Which one of these would suit my application best? I found these at my local Princess Auto (harbour frieght equiv) #8050742? (see attached image)

I was looking at this one: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009040911290359&item=436-DS&catname=

 

[cncjerry]

The way I read it is you have a 30 psi differential factory set to 70 on 100 off. And it is adjustable cut out to 150 so if you set to 135 off it will tun on at 105. Does that make work for you? It sounds good in my head.

 

[RustyBolts]

When your compressor used to run normally, did it make a big quick hiss noise every time it had finished refilling the tank, right after the motor shut off? If it did, then you need a switch with an unloader valve built into it. It unloads the pressure trapped between the compressor and the check valve so that the motor will be easier to kick on again when it starts the next time. All bigger compressors have an unloader valve usually, but smaller ones might not.

Get a new switch with the same on and off pressure set points and with a horsepower or current rating for the switch contacts that matches your motor.

 

[cncjerry]

When your compressor used to run normally, did it make a big quick hiss noise every time it had finished refilling the tank, right after the motor shut off? If it did, then you need a switch with an unloader valve built into it. It unloads the pressure trapped between the compressor and the check valve so that the motor will be easier to kick on again when it starts the next time. All bigger compressors have an unloader valve usually, but smaller ones might not.

Get a new switch with the same on and off pressure set points and with a horsepower or current rating for the switch contacts that matches your motor.

Ah good catch I went back and looked at the pictures and it does have a unloder look at the fist picture it is on the left side of the switch. The switch I posted will not work you will need the one with the un loder valve.

This one is what you would need.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009040911290359&item=436-DSV&catname=

 

[mikeweb]

Would this one work? I dont see a switch so im not sure if its on the other side or it omits it in general. If it did work it would be ideal as it has a differential pressure of 40, so I could tune it down to match my current unit (on 95, off 135)

Air Compressor Pressure Switch Pressure Range 100-200 PSIG Differential Type 40 PSIG Adjustable Differential Pressure 40 PSIG Factory On/Off Setting 135-175 PSIG Port 1/4 Inch NPSF Female Number of Ports 1 Type F 2 Poles NEMA 1 With Fixed Differential

http://www.drillspot.com/products/121316/Square_D_9013FHG52J59_Air_Compressor_Pressure_Switch

 

[mikeweb]

Thanks for all the info guy!

Funny enough I work for Siemens (business div though, so I wonder if I can get it direct and with an employee discount (that is if they even make pressure switches). The current switch that came with the IR unit is made by Hubbell which I thought was a good quality company?

I added some more pics for your viewing pleasure, but with that said im also going to annoy you guys with more questions

Sorry again for the n00b questions.. lol

 

[cncjerry]

Would this one work? I dont see a switch so im not sure if its on the other side or it omits it in general. If it did work it would be ideal as it has a differential pressure of 40, so I could tune it down to match my current unit (on 95, off 135)

Air Compressor Pressure Switch Pressure Range 100-200 PSIG Differential Type 40 PSIG Adjustable Differential Pressure 40 PSIG Factory On/Off Setting 135-175 PSIG Port 1/4 Inch NPSF Female Number of Ports 1 Type F 2 Poles NEMA 1 With Fixed Differential

http://www.drillspot.com/products/121316/Square_D_9013FHG52J59_Air_Compressor_Pressure_Switch

You need pressure switch with a un loader valve this one you have posted does not have a un loader valve. The un loader valve is the 1/4" tube on the right side of the switch in your pictures.

 

[cncjerry]

By the looks of the picture you have posted, someone correct me if I am wrong but I believe FLA stands for full load amps and I believe 24 amps put you with a 3 hp motor. The switch I posted is only good for 2 HP. I am now thinking your best bet will be to buy a replacement switch from IR. If you buy any of the ones posted here you are going to burn them up in a short amount of time you also have to do some re plumbing to move the un loader to the bottom of the replacement switch.

 

[mikeweb]

The electric motor only says 15amps, so perhaps the 24amp written on the sticker means its the max it can support?

Its funny, if I press down on the little yellow plastic tab on the switch (see image above) and flip the lever to auto it kicks in without an issue, but if I dont put pressure on the top it doesnt.

 

[mikeweb]

Have you guys ever heard of a "Load Genie"? It eliminates the need for pressure switch unloader and receiver check valve among other things.

http://www.rossbrownsales.com.au/page/compressor_components.html#Unloading

Datasheet: http://www.rossbrownsales.com.au/files/unloading_check_valves.pdf


Switch mounted unloaded -v- Load genie is a matter of volume.

If you want to do a lot of math, figure out the total volume of the line between the compressor head and the check valve on the receiver. Then determine how many CI one piston stroke delivers from the compressor.

Generally, it takes 2 or 3 revolutions of the compressor to come to full speed.
Given that the volume of the line is generally less than 1 stroke of the piston delivers the compressor is working against head before it gets to speed, meaning the motor works harder during start.

The Load Genie functions by allowing the compressor to pump to atmosphere until it comes to full speed by blowing off the compressed air until the compressor is delivering sustained flow above a determined pressure.
That means less starting work for the motor, and easier starts on the compressor as well.

 

[Identaltech]

we use to use load genie on our dental compressors but the square D pressure switch with the unloader valve seems to last longer.
but just for personal use in your garage they would last you a good lone time.
your working to hard if you use your compessor more than some of these dental offices.

 

[mikeweb]

I picked up a Furnas pressure switch, pretty much a straight swap so no extra plumbing! I got it for $40cdn (about 30usd) from a local compressor shop new in box.

It seems like the Furnas unit is better built then my IR pressure switch (even though Hubbell makes both!)

I removed the bottom metal fitting thing (multi ports) off my original one and swapped it onto the new one as the new one only had one threaded port (like the image below)

ON: 95
OFF: 125