Cutting a 29" Deep Stainless down to 24"

[FordF1]

A local guy is selling a 29x73 Snap-on Stainless Top for $500 (for a triple bank) I've got a KRL722 (54x24) with a KRL711 (19x24).

I think it comes up about an inch short width wise but I think I'm ok with that. My question is about cutting it down to match the depth of my shallower boxes.

Anyone cut a 29 inch deep worktop down to a 24? How did you do it?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Everything has to be cut down, It would just about be as easy to build the box from scratch. Drawers, slides, cabinet and everything is going to be a ***** to cut. Don't do the deal as you will regret it as it will never look good unless you are a master metal worker with a full shop of brakes and shears and welders and could build it from scratch.

 

[redwrench60]

Top has a wood core. Get out your worm drive circular saw and metal cutting blade then go to work. Make a good straight chalk line mark and clamp a long straight edge or 6’ level to use as a saw guide. Make the cut off the rear so you don’t lose the lip at the front and the cut will be hidden. De-burr with a grinder and put it in service

Alternative plan:

Let the long top overhang 5” in the rear and enjoy some extra work top space. Sometimes in life the best plan of action is to do nothing.

 

[FordF1]

Top has a wood core. Get out your worm drive circular saw and metal cutting blade then go to work. Make a good straight chalk line mark and clamp a long straight edge or 6’ level to use as a saw guide. Make the cut off the rear so you don’t lose the lip at the front and the cut will be hidden. De-burr with a grinder and put it in service

Alternative plan:

Let the long top overhang 5” in the rear and enjoy some extra work top space. Sometimes in life the best plan of action is to do nothing.

The the first response, I'm just looking at a top that's bigger to fit on a smaller box. So no drawers to be cut.

Leaving it bigger is smart. The top overhang is the easiest answer. Who knows, maybe even trade someone later down the road!

Thanks for the ideas!

I love the front lip on them, which is why I was looking for

 

[zkling]

Agreed, don't cut it if you can afford the space.

 

[mike93lx]

holy ****, $500 for an improperly sized top? can't imagine how expensive those things are new. what am i missing?

I'd call around to see if you can have a shop bend up a piece of stainless at the right size.

 

[tymbo]

Is there a way to bend up the back 5 inches for a back splash?

 

[redwrench60]

I worked with another mechanic who had a 29” deep stainless top on a 24” deep double bank Snap on box. He got the 29” deep top used off the Snap on truck and just threw it on. It worked perfectly. He just let it overhang in the back for the extra room. It was plenty heavy so it stayed put.

 

[American Locomotive]

Just saying, but if you're going to go through the trouble of buying a Snap-On stainless top for $500, cutting it down (destroying its value in the process), why not just make your own for a fraction of the cost?

Any local metal supply place will happily cut you a piece of 16 gauge stainless sheet that size, that you can just glue to your own plywood core. It'd be slightly more work, but I bet you could be all in for ~$150.

 

[FordF1]

Thanks for the inputs guys. All really good input and I really appreciate the ideas. Cheers

 

[RedneckWelder]

Another thought...a member here took a Sheet of mild steel, cut it to fit the top of his box (sitting in the “lips” but taller) , and flap disced it to a shine. It looked very good and he was into it for very cheap.