I need some advice, please, on a recent hand-me-down. It's a DAYTONA DF-12, 12 speed, that I think is a Rexon or Cummings, it's made in Taiwan. The badge on the DP says JT.3 for the spindle.
The spindle/arbor is definitely bent! Using a dial indicator, I get runout of 0.008 at the arbor below the shoulder, 0.01 at the top of the chuck sleeve, 0.25 at the bottom of the chuck sleeve, 0.05 at the body near the keyhole, and 0.65 on a bit in the chuck.
I'm trying to remove the chuck and/or the arbor to replace the chuck. There is no drift key slot in the quill, so I do not think there's an arbor, maybe just a Jacobs tapered spindle. Thoughts? I tried #3 Jacobs wedges, but the shoulder on the spindle/arbor isn't wide enough for the wedges to ride on, so they slip over the shoulder. I'm going to try pulling the chuck off with a gear/bearing puller next.
There is 0.005 front to back movement of the spindle/arbor when measuring the end of the extended quill, which might be expected, though I do plan on replacing the bearings when I remove the quill/spindle assembly.
KC-Steve has something similar.same
Once I have the new chuck on, I'll measure runout. I have 3 options to fix the bent spindle/arbor if there's runout.
1. Dead blow hammer
2. Re-taper the JT3 which will shorten the spindle slightly (if there's enough space above the new chuck to do this)
3. Get a replacement spindle (any suggestions where?)
Any help or advice is why I'm posting!
Sincerely
Gavin
The spindle/arbor is definitely bent! Using a dial indicator, I get runout of 0.008 at the arbor below the shoulder, 0.01 at the top of the chuck sleeve, 0.25 at the bottom of the chuck sleeve, 0.05 at the body near the keyhole, and 0.65 on a bit in the chuck.
I'm trying to remove the chuck and/or the arbor to replace the chuck. There is no drift key slot in the quill, so I do not think there's an arbor, maybe just a Jacobs tapered spindle. Thoughts? I tried #3 Jacobs wedges, but the shoulder on the spindle/arbor isn't wide enough for the wedges to ride on, so they slip over the shoulder. I'm going to try pulling the chuck off with a gear/bearing puller next.
There is 0.005 front to back movement of the spindle/arbor when measuring the end of the extended quill, which might be expected, though I do plan on replacing the bearings when I remove the quill/spindle assembly.
KC-Steve has something similar.same
as does JASTECH
Once I have the new chuck on, I'll measure runout. I have 3 options to fix the bent spindle/arbor if there's runout.
1. Dead blow hammer
2. Re-taper the JT3 which will shorten the spindle slightly (if there's enough space above the new chuck to do this)
3. Get a replacement spindle (any suggestions where?)
Any help or advice is why I'm posting!
Sincerely
Gavin