Devthane 379 clear coat mess

[Hawaiian2002]

Aloha,

I did an installation of Epoxy-Coat the other day and was rather please with the results. In going through these forums it seems that it is recommended that a urethane top coat is needed for UV protection and to protect the color flecks. I went down to a local Devoe dealer and purchased Devthane 379 flat clearcoat. They did not have any gloss in stock. I sprinkled in about 3/4's of a bottle of Shark-bite to ad some slip resistance.

When I poured part A into the mixing bucket, I noticed that some of the urethane had hardened at the bottom of the can (about 1/2 inch). I tried to scrape some of the hardened urethane out of the can but was unsuccessful. I went on to mix part B and the Shark-bite and started rolling the urethane on my glossy Epoxy-Coat floor.

The urethane did not spread well. The urethane was very sticky and did not spread at all. I completed the entire garage in about 20 minutes or so and went over some spots that I missed. The end result was visible roller streaks throughout the garage. I thought it was spread out after awhile (like the Epoxy-coat did) but it stayed exactly the same.

I am going back to the dealer to show him the hardened urethane at the bottom of the can. Perhaps this was an old product that should not have been sold.

I have two questions:

First, can I put down a Glossy urethane coat over the streaky flat coat and have a glossy finish?

Second, It will be 48 hours between the first and the second coat. Would that be too long between coats? I live in Hawaii and the temp has been in the 70's but it has been raining most of the time so there is a very high humidity level.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Urethane needs to be rolled out thin. I will bet your shark shi$ clumped on you to boot.

Never apply a material that is funny when you open the can unless the manufacturer approves.

I see a good screening in your future.

 

[Hawaiian2002]

Went back to Devoe dealer and he told me that the can should have been shaken before I used it. He also said that I should have thinned the urethane out before I rolled it. Also, I should have used a small roller nap. I did not know any of these things and neither was I told. Anyway, they gave me another gallon free of charge. I purchased the thinner and a small nap roller. He shook the can for me so I was happy as a clam.

When I opened the new can, again, there was hardened urethane at the bottom. I used my mixing bit and mixed all of the hardened urethane into the rest of the urethane. Per instructions from the dealer, I added about 10 percent (12 oz) of thinner to the urethane. I added the hardener and the shark bite and mixed thouroughly.

The urethane went on much easier but still not what I was expecting. I think I would have been ok with about 20 percent thinner. Finish looks ok I guess. Live and learn. Can't do any more coats since my neighbors are complaining about the smell from the urethane.

 

[rburke65]

What does "I see a good screening in your future" mean? Thanks

 

[dcs Inc]

screening=Sanding. A lot of times the solids will float to the bottom of a product. Heating it up will liquefy and with a good mix you should be good to go.

Applying any urethane takes the correct tooling and being good at using a roller. Most products will not self level and what you see is what you get. Roller marks are pretty normal with these products if not applied correctly. Every product has their own little tricks so I can't really "tell" you the proper way to apply. Normally roll out at the recommended sq. footage then cross roll to finish out. I use a good 1/4" nap, non shed roller.... 18". We use an aluminum oxide as our non slip additive verses the shark grip product. It is a finer grade product and doesn't clump. A lot of guys have used a hvlp sprayer to apply. I've yet to use this procedure so I cannot comment on it.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thanks Indy. Also good to point out that many urethanes require a respirator. Very important to be safe especially if you are a pro with more exposure.