DIY spray insulation

[g935cab]

Hey guys , i was wondering if anybody has used this product or any other spray insulations : http://www.fomofoam.com/index.htm



im in maryland and trying to insulate a pole building 24x24 8ft walls and no seiling i want to to keep it open to the 12 foot peak any help would be appreciated , and dont need to be in a t-shirt in january ~G

 

[tatra]

i too am interested in this idea..................searched the net and found some kits but came to the conclusion that by the time i master the technique and deal with the mess of these products ,this might best be left to the pros.....................would be nice to hear from others on the pros and cons , or is there a thread on this already?

 

[JaysinSpaceman]

When I first looked at building my shop I thought about a steel building and looked into the DIY foam and just decided, Like tatra, that the learning curve was just too great and that I would end up spending WAY too much learning how to spray it on consistently. I ended up doing a wood framed building but I did an enclosure for a local community college and I used rigid foam insulation for it. It's call RMAX Thermasheath. 2" thick and an R value of 12.9. Easy to cut with a straight edge and a cordless skillsaw. Just some info for you. Lowes has the 1" version of it, 4'x8' is just under $16 each. They will order the 2" if you will buy a whole unit, like 35 sheets. Good luck.

 

[g935cab]

thanks for the replies , i was thinkin the same thing , i would make a big mess i went to home depot today the 4x8 2 inch was 25 a sheet might do that on the ceiling does anyboody make a fiberglass thats sealed in plastic that would be fine between the steel and some type of paneling wall board ~G

 

[GSSFC]

That do it yourself foam stuff actually costs more for just the material then if you hire a pro to come in and do it the right way (materials and labor). Plus if you run out or run short then what do you do...spend another $600 on another kit of sacrafice someplace. This is one place that DIY actually costs more!

Tim

 

[BooUrns!]

The DIY and 1/2 lb spray foam is currently very overpriced. There are a lot of small startups trying to sell it as the future of insulation tech. It's good but when the price is twice of convential insulation, there is little potential for a return on investment.

 

[FunfDreisig]

....anyboody make a fiberglass thats sealed in plastic that would be fine between the steel and some type of paneling wall board ~G

EVERY metal building I've seen with insulation around here used plastic sheathed insulation that is very "pillowy" looking (e.g. fiberglass in cased in plastic). In comes in very long rolls that look like a huge flattened white sausage. They just drape the stuff between the "rafters" over the top of the purlins and hang it down the walls behind wires. They can insulate a large metal building in a few hours.

Funf Dreisig

 

[pbbikes]

not sure if this thread is still active but I bought a soythane kit recently.
The kit should arrive on monday -a 600lb pallet atually with a "fast kick" pneumatic gun.

I tried going the pro route and had one guy to choose from in our vacinity. He wanted $8000 to do a $640 sq. ft. house.

The local guys wanted $1500 to batt and spray cellulose the house.

I did not want to take this job on myself but had no option other than DIY, $8000, or $1500 batt insulation.

The reason I didnt go with fiberglass batts is mainly rodents. We bought this small house on a beautiful large piece of land and it had been vacant for a year and previously was owned by a real dirty packrat. The mice and squirrels had infested every nook and cranny and were kept nice and warm in the walls, floor, and ceiling.

My wife and I take off periodically for long periods of time and do not want to putt in cheap batts to have the mice move in and create the same situation over time.

This insulation was the worst I have ever seen and the urine smell was intolerable.

We initially were trying to save bits and pieces but eventually endded up with a stick structure devoid of everything else. I resaecrhed for the past few months and came to the conclusion that this was the only way to completely seal up the house and also not provide a warm blanket for the rodents, No matter what you do to seal the house , they will find a way in eventually and breed like, well mice.

Thats one big reason to go for it .Another from what I researched is that the stud space need not be filled in order to receive the most ains for the buck. ie. the sweet spot.

Our family is in the solar biz so energy efficiency is a big deal. We don't want a heating bill or a hot house without using airconditioning. We in no way are about being hippies or going without lifes luxuries/pleasures but would like to take care of these basic things while we are young and some day not have an energy bill at all.

Sorry I am veering off. Basically this stuff can insulate a freezer with only 4" so were going w/ 3 on the underside of the ceiling -which also means higher ceilings, 2" in the walls and 2" under the floor.

We will heat primarily with wood so this will save a bunch of chopping I'm guessing as well as the secondary monitor heater using much kerosene.

Now this stuff looks like a mess and I hear you must cut your air out if you get it in there but with the options presented (BTW the kit and gun were 3k)

This one seemed the most appropriate.

I will report back here if anyone is interested when I get to it.

I also figured it to be just under $1 per board foot , so the ceiling will be about $2.5 and the walls $1.75 per foot. Also using 1.5# density closed cell foam so should be water proof.

 

[tatra]

please take pics before, during, and after your project............and maybe some on here can give some tips if they have any experience?........hopefully you ordered extra so as not to run out.........an aquaintance of mine who did this as a job did mention that cleanup of the gun was a pain and it was imperative to be super **** with maintainace of them.............really hope this goes smoothly for you.........good luck..............

 

[GSSFC]

please take pics before, during, and after your project............and maybe some on here can give some tips if they have any experience?........hopefully you ordered extra so as not to run out.........an aquaintance of mine who did this as a job did mention that cleanup of the gun was a pain and it was imperative to be super **** with maintainace of them.............really hope this goes smoothly for you.........good luck..............

Another suggestion is to heat the tanks up prior to use. This will allow the material to expand and you will get more of the material out of the tanks when using them. It will also install with more force. The same technique works with cans of spray foam when you use it around doors, windows and other openings.

Tim

 

[Flatmotor]

[QUOTE
I also figured it to be just under $1 per board foot , so the ceiling will be about $2.5 and the walls $1.75 per foot. Also using 1.5# density closed cell foam so should be water proof.[/QUOTE]

How does the DYI total price compare to the $8000.00 quote? Bill

 

[GSSFC]

[QUOTE
I also figured it to be just under $1 per board foot , so the ceiling will be about $2.5 and the walls $1.75 per foot. Also using 1.5# density closed cell foam so should be water proof.

How does the DYI total price compare to the $8000.00 quote? Bill[/QUOTE]

DIY is generally more. We charge $0.90 per bdf for 2# closed cell foam and still make money, so that should give you an idea of how much they mark-up these DIY froth packs.

Tim

 

[rcleaver]

(BTW the kit and gun were 3k)

I'm surprised you're saving $5k.

 

[sc105b]

Looking forward to hearing about your experience with the fastkick gun system. They also offer a polyurea floor coating I'd like to hear more about...

 

[Weedwaka]

Any updates on the Soythane kit ? I am looking at possibly going this route also.

 

[CraigFL]

I'm seriously thinking about trying this but I may try a 200BF kit on a small job first to see how it goes.

 

[tyrell2004]

my limited experience ....I used it for some theater/movie projects for making fake cave or rock walls, so our goal was never an even layer, lumps and bumps was the desired out come.(then painted to look like rock.) Very sticky and very messy but covers very quickly. you'll be tempted to clean or touch it before it hardens but don't, can't really adjust it or move it when expanding. Wait till it sets then cut/ carve with drywall knife or wood saw.