Does my compressor need a unit-mounted regulator?

[DirtyTace]

I have a Coleman 5 hp, 26 gal oil-less air compressor. I just hooked up some black iron supply lines with a filter and pressure regulator located at the end of the run. This regulator is in addition to the one located on the compressor unit itself.

My question is, do I even need the regulator mounted on the compressor unit itself? I seemed to have loosened it while making my piping connections and when I turned it on, it built pressure and then blew off and landed God-knows-where. Can I eliminate this regulator or does the pressure switch need it?

Here's a skematic of what I'm working with.

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/regulator-parts-p0502010-series-others-p-1675.html

Any suggestions you can make are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Todd

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Most likely your compressor maxes out at 125 psi. If it does, it probably isn't worth using a regulator at all unless you are paint spraying or something else that requires a lower pressure.

Charles

 

[DirtyTace]

That is why I added the regulator at the end of my hard line. Well, that and the factory regulator is a p.o.s. I really can't see why I couldn't just eliminate the factory unit-mounted regulator. Any reason not to get rid of it?

 

[Major Ramifications]

Get rid of it unless you plan to use the compressor as a portable unit. If it is stationary, then that extra regulator is just a restriction. The pressure switch "sees" the pressure in the tank, it doesn't care about the regulator.

 

[DirtyTace]

Get rid of it unless you plan to use the compressor as a portable unit. If it is stationary, then that extra regulator is just a restriction. The pressure switch "sees" the pressure in the tank, it doesn't care about the regulator.

Thanks for your response. I suspected this was the case but I wanted to hear it from someone else. As long as I have a pressure switch and a relief valve, I could probably just get rid of the factory manifold altogether since it only has fittings for a 1/4 i.d.

 

[Mandres]

Thanks for your response. I suspected this was the case but I wanted to hear it from someone else. As long as I have a pressure switch and a relief valve, I could probably just get rid of the factory manifold altogether since it only has fittings for a 1/4 i.d.

Yea, get rid of it. It's just a restriction in the airway otherwise. I've always heard that if you're using two regs for an application you should split the differential between them i.e. if you're going from 800psi (liquid CO2) to 100psi set the first regulator to 450 and the second to 100. When going from 125psi to 90psi on your compressor there's no need to mess with two.

 

[Vicegrip]

The manifold might have a check valve in it that is needed for proper cylinder head unloading prior to a restart. Some do and some do not. If the check valve is required but not in place the tank will leak down through the unloader valve during shutdown.