Drill Bit vs Steel
- Thread starter twostall
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APEowner
Well-known member
Can you put the work piece in a mill or drill press? Trying to do that with a hand drill sounds like a recipe for an expensive broke drill bit and possibly injury.
Do you know what kind of steel?
Do you know what kind of steel?
A mill if necessary, though that means I carry it with me to Illinois next week from Alabama, and ship it back. Was hoping for an immediate fix with a drill press so I can see and implement the results. The steel is D2.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's a big bit for a Dremel. What model do you suggest that will hold a 3/4" bit?
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I'm saying to GRIND the hole to 3/4" diameter. You scribe or mark the hole diameter, and grind to the lines. Unless this needs to be a precision reamed hole, it should be fine. If the OP was considering a file, grinding with a Dremel is in the same wheelhouse.
dontlifttoshift
Well-known member
Sounds like a reamer is the right answer here.
So what is the application? Is it a thru hole for a bolt, or does it need a precision hole?
Wanna Ride
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Not knowing more details, if you had access to a mag-drill, that would be a good option.
Or... a local machine shop, possibly. All depends on how accurate it needs to be. If not very precise, I'd try a die-grinder and a carbide burr. Might take a few minutes, but it would work, just scribe a good profile, and work outwards to that scribe mark.
But without more details or a picture, this all might just be speculation.
Or... a local machine shop, possibly. All depends on how accurate it needs to be. If not very precise, I'd try a die-grinder and a carbide burr. Might take a few minutes, but it would work, just scribe a good profile, and work outwards to that scribe mark.
But without more details or a picture, this all might just be speculation.
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I'm going to experiment on some scrap, just to satisfy my curiosity
That's what I suspected, but wasn't sure. I think I'll defer to a machine shop.
Hardened tool steel close to 60RC is tough to cut. You could torch anneal the edge of the hole, and use a tapered bridge reamer to open the hole up...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCNS3Y4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCNS3Y4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You obviously don't get my humor.... A dremel is about the LAST tool I would use to enlarge a hole like this. Dremel's should not be allowed in any project other than soap box derby cars. "Unless this needs to be a precision reamed hole"....please..."unless you need the hole to be round" would be a better description.
How did the OP come up with RC 58? unless you have some pretty sophisticated equipment you aren't going to know the RC hardness. If you have that kind of equipment you are not going to have a dremel as your first line of offense. I don't see any reference to a file other than a hardness comparison.
Corndoggeh
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You would be amazed what a tungsten carbide burr can do to tool steel, I keep a few in my toolbox for that "OH F*CK" moment when I break a hard piece of steel like a tap in a hole.
j p smith
Well-known member
I missed the comments below about hardness and alloy
APEowner
Well-known member
You could also do it with a carbide drill. Ether way you're going to need a ridged setup and some power. A consumer level drill press isn't going to cut it (sorry about the pun)
Know Wosad
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Any half *** welding-machine shop will have a heavy drill press and/or mill.call NAPA and ask them for a referral or, they may be able to do it. 58R isn't all that hard. I wouldnt do it in a toy drill press but a hss bit is about 62 for good ones. Problem is you need about 400 rpm or so.A 3/4 chucked in our Bridgeport will swiss cheese that d2 all day long with a good bit
If A Pmech speaks, you listen!
R.Anderson
Well-known member
You call that humor, I'll quote ya on that one "....please...." Why won't you offer a solution other than ******* all over someone's idea like a pissant.
It is still a solution that would work. The steel is only 1/4" thick. Enlarging the hole and have it round via grinding is totally doable with patience and a steady hand.
You are also asumming better equipment the OP has for their " first line of offense". Because someone has a Rockwell hardness tester does not mean they have a mill, EDM, or good drill press at there disposal.
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Yep. A Dremel is just like a miniature die-grinder, and can do the job (albeit very slowly) with the appropriate grinding wheels. Finish with the biggest wheel that will fit, a steady hand, and the hole will be round.
But the OP still has not advised how round it needs to be. A thru hole for a fastener, or bulkhead fitting, etc may not need to be perfect.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You're right, I did dismiss the dremel without suggesting an alternative method. That was rude of me no doubt and I apologize.
My problem with a Dremel is I've seen them make a mess out things in a hurry in the wrong hands. They are a tool that tries to be solution to many problems and it does not solve any of them very well. To enlarge a hole in 1/4" plate from 5/8" to 3/4" is a lot of material to remove with a 1/8" shaft grinding stone in a Dremel - it could be done but will take a long time and eat up some expensive little grinding stones. Cost of the tooling is another pet peeve of mine when it comes to Dremel's. OP did not say how many holes, if it's more than one I'd for sure find another method.
As for other methods - 1/4" die grinder with carbide burr would be better bet than a Dremel if the hole can be a low precision hole. If tighter tolerances are needed, I'd suggest a boring head in a mill with a carbide cutting tool. A 3/8" carbide end mill in a CNC mill and circular milling would work as well.
Problem is the OP has not told us how precise it needs to be. All we know is his access to a mill seems to be in Illinois and he is in Alabama
.Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I wouldn't go at it with a carbide drill unless you have a very rigid setup. If the drill or the part wiggles slightly, you'll most likely break the bit. And I'm assuming that you are using a 2 fluted drill bit where the carbide is silver soldered on the end? The type that is mostly used for concrete.
You don't say exactly what the part is, but being made from D2, and hardened to Rockwell 58C sounds like a part for a die or something similar. If you ship it to me, if it's not to big, I'll open up the hole for free. I have some 5/8" carbide end mills. I'll only charge you shipping back.
How precise does the hole have to be? Could someone open it up with a plasma cutter? You could make a template for a guide for the torch of the plasma cutter to insure it is round.
You don't say exactly what the part is, but being made from D2, and hardened to Rockwell 58C sounds like a part for a die or something similar. If you ship it to me, if it's not to big, I'll open up the hole for free. I have some 5/8" carbide end mills. I'll only charge you shipping back.
How precise does the hole have to be? Could someone open it up with a plasma cutter? You could make a template for a guide for the torch of the plasma cutter to insure it is round.
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
Depending how precise it needs to be, I drill D2 all the time with a cheap *** masonry bit from the hardware store.
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
If it needs to be super precise, ie opening up a dowel to the next size, then it's the perfect job for wire edm.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I like the carbide end mill suggestion.
R.Anderson
Well-known member
You're right, I did dismiss the dremel without suggesting an alternative method. That was rude of me no doubt and I apologize.
My problem with a Dremel is I've seen them make a mess out things in a hurry in the wrong hands. They are a tool that tries to be solution to many problems and it does not solve any of them very well. To enlarge a hole in 1/4" plate from 5/8" to 3/4" is a lot of material to remove with a 1/8" shaft grinding stone in a Dremel - it could be done but will take a long time and eat up some expensive little grinding stones. Cost of the tooling is another pet peeve of mine when it comes to Dremel's. OP did not say how many holes, if it's more than one I'd for sure find another method.
As for other methods - 1/4" die grinder with carbide burr would be better bet than a Dremel if the hole can be a low precision hole. If tighter tolerances are needed, I'd suggest a boring head in a mill with a carbide cutting tool. A 3/8" carbide end mill in a CNC mill and circular milling would work as well.
Problem is the OP has not told us how precise it needs to be. All we know is his access to a mill seems to be in Illinois and he is in Alabama
You can get carbide burr bits with 1/8" shank as well FYI. I do agree using a dremel can make a mess of things if ya can not control it. Die grinders can make a mess of things just as well. With using die grinder keep the burr bit diameter small compared to the hole being enlarged. The larger diameter the more likely it will run around in the hole destroying the carbide burr bit. Seen people destroy expensive carbide burr bits in seconds due to this.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
The problem with wire EDM is that for something like that, again depending on what the part is for, is probably cost prohibitive. We had parts Wire EDM'd all the time where I worked, and just a hole can be easily $100. Most places charge by the inch when they do it, so you have the material thickness + the circumference of the material to consider, and the speed in which they run the wire. Way easier to pop it open with a carbide end mill.
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
Yes I agree, I have programmed and ran wire for years, but if it needs to be as precise as something like a dowel, it's the best bet. Another option for precision would be to circular interpolate the hole on a VERY GOOD cnc mill to get a good true hole. But I do agree with the rest, if the hole isn't fussy, pop it in with a carbide end mill.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I know you can get carbide burrs in 1/8" shafts, have a couple in the tool box next to the Dremel. The reference to 1/4" shank was to imply a heavier tool than an Dremel would do the job much faster. A Dremel will work if that's all you have, the hole can be rough and you have lot's of time. Yes, you are correct that a die grinder can make a mess too - partially why I don't like the idea of it or a Dremel.
I still don't have a strong opionion of the best way to enlarge the hole(s) because there is too little information from the OP. He does seem to have access to a die grinder and burr however. I'd sure like to hear some more details about his project. Time frame, budget, precision required, tools at his disposal, etc.
Lot's of good ideas on here as usual. We just don't have enough info to be insightful at this point.
Hey guys, I apologize for dropping out of site for a bit - things got really busy. There is a lot of really good info in this thread. My situation was that I wanted to adapt a fixture from one machine tool to another, right now, and I knew you guys were the ones who would have the experience & ideas. The precision of a drill bit (vs reamer) is adequate, but in the end I took it to HQ where we put it in a mill and used a boring bar. We have a few small operations in several states, where the ability to be resourceful is sometimes necessary if we want to meet a schedule. I should have provided a little more background in my OP. As far as metalworking, I'm a hobbyist, not a machinist. Still, the info here will come in handy in my garage as I have access to some rather high quality scrap steel i like to play with. Thanks for the good ideas & insight.
A couple of times when I needed to drill some steel so hard it dulled normal high speed bits instantly - even a low speeds - I put a good sharp edge on an ordinary carbide masonry bit (not a percussion type) with a SiO2 grinding wheel, and it worked very well. Slow speed in a nuthin- special drill press. Gonna try that next time I need to drill stainless.