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Electric Power Steering Rack Grinding?

YoshiMoshi3

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Nov 2, 2022
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501
2014 Acura TSX, 4 Cylinder, AT, 150k miles

I noticed a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel a few degrees in one direction, and then turning it in the other direction, while driving the car. I got the car up in the air. Without taking apart anything I grabbed hold of one of the front tires at the 3 and 9 o clock position, and begin to rotate the tire and heard a loud knocking sound. Thinking that it was just the wheel lock, I put the key in the accessory position, car on but engine off. I then repeated the turning of the tire but heard a loud grinding sound. This was repeatable on both sides of the car. I took the tires off, and then took the outer tie rod out of one of the knuckles. I rotated the respective knuckle without the tie rod in it, and there was no grinding sound, just a slight sound from slop in the axle. This was repeatable on the other side. The sound still existed, with both tie rods out of the knuckles, car on and engine off. This is the grinding sound when someone else is turning the steering wheel with neither of the tie rods in a knuckle, with myself on the ground. You’ll notice a wet spot on the rack and pinon on one of the sides, but this is a EPS, so there’s no fluid (I believe). Would like a tale tale sign of a power steering leak in a non electrical one. I believe the wet spot from an old transmission axle seal leak, that I fixed a few months back.

Any ideas what this could be? I take it the rack and pinion is likely bad? If so, I wonder if it’s possible to only replace like a certain part of it, without taking the whole thing out of the car, like maybe just the motor.


Thanks for any help or suggestions on diagnosing this.

I suppose I could try pulling the bellows/boots off of the rack and trying to add grease, but I thought it’s not part of regular maintenance and not sure if it would help?
 

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finn

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Worn out.

You’re going to have to disassemble the thing to figure it out, or else load and fire the parts cannon. Even if it’s eps, there will still be lubricant and seals, and meshing of the rack and pinion.

It’s an eleven year old car on the downside of its design life, and things wear out
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Worn out.

You’re going to have to disassemble the thing to figure it out, or else load and fire the parts cannon. Even if it’s eps, there will still be lubricant and seals, and meshing of the rack and pinion.

It’s an eleven year old car on the downside of its design life, and things wear out
Thanks for the reply. Looks like removing the rack and pinion in the car requires lowering the subframe so I cannot easily DIY, would need a real lift, and need to pay someone to do it for me.

I don't think bad tie rod inner or outer is the issue, which I could easily DIY.

Do you think it could be the steering shaft u joints? I don't think so? It's a $200 dealer only part and something I could DIY easily. Might be worth at least verifying it's not the issue but I don't think it is?

Rack and pinion is $3500 from dealer, and rebuilt aftermarket for about $900.
 

nicks78camaro

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Pittsburgh, PA
Pop the steering shaft off the rack and then move the rack lock to lock, and inspect the steering shaft for binding joints.

Do NOT let the steering wheel spin freely when the shaft is disconnected as you may damage the clock spring if you go too far one direction or the other.

Also if it's a bad rack I'd much rather use a used OEM part than a reman aftermarket.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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So electric rack and pinion obviously still needs lubrication. Is some sort of contained fluid used or is it just grease?
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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I don't think electric racks have the ability to be greased/lubed after factory assembly.
Id imagine could take boot off and add grease to the teeth. But do electric racks contain oil in a sealed system with seals? So kind of like mechanical one, but it's never supposed to be serviced and "good for the life of the car"?
 

ChevyEFI

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Like above, eliminate the shaft and immobilize it from spinning. If the rack then grinds and no service schedule for lube is documented, new rack and drop off for alignment.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Ok, so I got the chance to take the boots off the clamps and take a look at the rack. The teeth do not look chewed up at all. There is no scaring or scratches on the other side either. It does look like the stain was just from the old transmission leak that I had. I do not believe that there's any oil within the rack and pinion itself. As can be seen in the pictures, it does appear to be greasy still. I'm not sure if adding any extra grease would help, or exactly which type of grease I should be using, and I'd run the risk of applying an incompatible grease with what came from the manufacturer.

I know some people have suggested removing the steering shaft from the knuckle and then turning the rack to see if it still makes the sound. How exactly do I do this? I had difficulty essentially "aligning" the steering shaft back to the center part of the rack. Even despite me marking both. I'm affraid that rotating the rack without the steering shaft will result in it becoming out of alignment. There's also no real good way to rotate the rack without the steering shaft without using pliers and possibly scratching things up. Additionally, I know there are typically two u joints within the steering shaft, if those two u joints were really worn out, would it make this type of grinding sound?

I guess this rack and pinion on this 2014 Acura TSX isn't really meant to be rebuildable, and the only dissassembling is the torque sensor.

Thanks for any help.
 

CGarage

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Nov 23, 2018
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Start looking for a steering and driveline specialist in your area and get another opinion…..

There are some very gifted shops that do steering rack and pinion rebuilding.
 
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