Electrical Questions for my new shop

[DEWFPO]

1). I have a steel building that I will power with a generator. The generator is an inverter generator so it has a floating neutral ( not bonded). In the interior load center that I will install, I assume I need to install the bonding screw so that the neutral and grounds are bonded to the case of the panel. Is that correct?

2). Since the panel will be mounted to the metal frame (a sidewall girt), I assume I need to ground the metal building (or the panel) to a ground rod that I had installed outside that is not attached to the building in any way. Is that correct?

If yes, is it better to attach the ground rod directly to the Load Center or to the building itself?

Thank You

 

[75gmck25]

I don't know the code requirements, but it should be similar to connecting a building to the power company. I'll give you my best guess of what you need.

- The panel you install is functioning like a main panel, so you should bond the neutral and ground so that all devices and appliances will work. However, you also need to check the documentation for your inverter generator, since some work differently for the neutral-ground bonding requirements.
- Main panels require two ground rods that are driven at least 8 feet into the ground, spaced 6 feet apart.
- Ground wire should be continuous from one ground rod to the other and then up to the panel ground. That same panel ground point should be connected to gas appliances or other devices that need to be grounded.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

run a 4-wire feed to the genny

 

[bluedog225]

Others know electric better than me.

But on a related note, I’ve been surprised how well my small solar array, inverter, and batteries have made my genny almost obsolete.

 

[DEWFPO]

Thanks

The Honda EU2200I Generator manual states :


Ground Terminal :

The generator ground terminal is connected to the frame of the generator, the metal non-current-carrying parts of the generator, and the ground terminals of each receptacle.

Neutral Floating :

The generator(stator winding) is isolated from the frame and from the AC receptacle ground pin.

Electrical devices that require a grounded receptacle pin connection will not function if the receptacle ground pin is not fucntional.

This sounds like I should attach a ground wire from the generator's ground terminal to the ground rod (which will be attached to the Load Center).

It also sounds like I need to add a second ground rod as well at the appropriate depth and distance.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

This sounds like I should attach a ground wire from the generator's ground terminal to the ground rod (which will be attached to the Load Center).

It also sounds like I need to add a second ground rod as well at the appropriate depth and distance.

no you need to run a 4-wire generator feeder to the main panel. the ground rods are already connected to the neutral/ground bar in that panel.

you do need 2 ground rods per code.

 

[dave*99]

no you need to run a 4-wire generator feeder to the main panel. the ground rods are already connected to the neutral/ground bar in that panel.

you do need 2 ground rods per code.

Well, sorta. It's a 120V generator so he has to consider picking up both sides of the panel. Generator inlet, interlock etc. Adapter cord to go from 5-15P or 5-20P to L14-30R etc. The whole dance. There are certainly 4 wires when you get done with all that.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

i would install a 4-wire feeder regardless of the generator output. that way you have the option for a bigger generator

yes use an adapter at the generator

 

[mm08822]

Cleanest way is to use a 120/240v, 30a power inlet box and the adapter cord mentioned above. This way all of fixed/permanent building wiring is to code and wired as expected....120/240. So only the portable adapter is the watch out and it moves with the genny.

If you later buy a 120/240v genny, then you are all set with the building wiring....no changes needed.