Entry-level small engine Mechanic tool help

[Mastercraft81]

So in a few weeks I will be starting a job as a entry-level small engine mechanic. I'm having a hard time deciding on what tools to get. What tools should a entry-level small engine mechanic have?

Right now I have some where around 300 sockets so i'm not worried about them.
I have a set of SAE mac combo wrenches.
I have nut drivers SAE and metrc.
One hammer
One prybar 16 inch long
I have MAC pliers, side cutters, channel locks.
One six inch long crescent wrench.
Alan wrenches and sockets.
Bluepoint multimeter
Various other wrenches, pliers, and screwdrivers
Speed handel
Impact driver
Black& Decker drill and craftsman drill bit set
Feeler gauge
small pick set
3/8 drive torque wrench up to 100ftlbs Matco

Any Ideas on what I should get? I will be working on outboard boat engines.

I'm thinking I need spark board, timing light, compression tester, A good set of metric combination wrenches, 1/4 inch torque wrench, and some hammers like and dead blow, ball pin.

 

[kd3pc]

you should be set, over tooled, most likely. These will get you going, and then see what you need going forward. If you are doing new outboards, you may need some more technology, but the shop may provide that.

 

[bobcatdan]

It sounds like you have your basics covered. Hopefully being new to the field one of guys will take you under his wings in helping you learn. From there you will see what eles you need. Focus on buying what you need now, not five years from now. My rule when starting out was if I borrowed it three times, I need to buy it. Also if your current tools seem fine, don't be in a hurry upgrading those. Get the stuff you don't have first before buying better of what you got.

 

[Eric Essen]

I don't do outboards, but lots of motorcycles/scooters. Mostly 50's-70's Vespas with brit bikes and harleys mixed in. I'm assuming you'll find mostly metric in small engine repair unless you're doing vintage USA stuff. SAE is slowly following the footsteps of whitworth. You'll also probably deal with working in tight spaces/poor clearance situations.

In addition to regular metric wrenches, a set of stubby metric gearwrenches will save a lot of time and effort. You can break things free with a regular wrench if the stubby isn't enough, and they fit into tight spaces. I like the flip over to reverse ones, not the switchable, more reliable in really tight spaces.

Liquid Wrench or whatever your prefered rusty fastener prep lubricant is. In addition to a solvent/silicone type lube like Liquid wrench or WD40, I like to have a light oil for linkages and getting lube into tight places. I use the "Original Zoom Spout" turbine oiler.

Metric Tap/Die set. Usually just for cleaning up studs and other hardware. Occasionally for more serious repairs.

A Y-Wrench if you find yourself using the same few sockets over and over again. I've got one loaded with a 10mm, 11mm, and 13mm. I can fly through a Vespa engine rebuild with it. When I'm working on newer stuff, I swap the 11mm for an 8mm. https://www.google.com/search?q=y+wrench&espv=2&biw=1426&bih=708&tbm=isch&tbo=u I like a longer handle one over the stubby ones.

I also use an 8mm skinny wrench more than you would think in clearance issue situations. Often enough, I import my favorite from Japan: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/Precision-Metric-Wrench-Set/IF145-189-3
A lot of people like the craftsman ignition wrench set for this too.

An ultrasonic cleaner is great for small parts cleaning, carb rebuilding, etc. I run mine with a purple power/water mix when I do a rebuild and drop all my hardware in. It strips paint and corrosion off of some pretty nasty stuff. I lucked out and found a nice used quality one from a lab at the swapmeet for cheap (no heat though). I don't know how well the real cheap chinese ones work. They usually just have a piezo buzzer attached to the bottom of the tank, $30ish?
I also don't know anything about this one http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html but it looks a lot better than the other ones I've seen and has heat.
Top of the line is $400-$800 for a Crest or similar. This one might be smaller than most people would want https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/Crest-CP200HT-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/IF317-069-1

A giant full sheet aluminum baking tray. From Smart and Final etc to do jobs in. Keeps parts/tools/fluids for the project contained and makes cleanup fast and easy.

Magnetic pick-up tool and other retrieval tools (polypus hemostat is a cool handy one)

 

[Scotland Offshore ABZ]

The only thing I would suggest is a set of easy outs and mole grips. Easy outs are a must as there is nothing worse than a sheared bolt.

 

[Scotland Offshore ABZ]

It sounds like you have your basics covered. Hopefully being new to the field one of guys will take you under his wings in helping you learn. From there you will see what eles you need. Focus on buying what you need now, not five years from now. My rule when starting out was if I borrowed it three times, I need to buy it. Also if your current tools seem fine, don't be in a hurry upgrading those. Get the stuff you don't have first before buying better of what you got.

THIS^ My rule was borrow twice and then buy though

 

[Larryjones]

I would add a large and small gear-flywheel puller, seal puller,and a soft face hammer, maybe a deadblow.

 

[LXCam]

Since you got the basics covered save your money for specialty pullers if you're required to buy those.

 

[jd_1138]

Maybe a set of Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches. Otherwise besides what everyone else mentioned, it looks like you're pretty well covered.

Does the marine shop have some tool trucks that stop by?

 

[Skin]

In addition to the basics like sockets/wrenches/extensions etc.. for small engine, my most used tools are

12v 3/8 impact (actually a 14.4 SO but a Milwaukee 12v would suffice)
12v Pocket driver/cordless screw gun with nut setters
fuel line pinch off tool
Tecumseh fuel line tool
good slip joint plier (nod to SO 47cf)
45* offset needle nose
very skinny/long needle nose like those found for small component electrical work
1/4 ratchet
3/8 ratchet
ratcheting combo wrenches
picks and pocket screwdriver
good set of screwdrivers/torx/nut drivers
2-3 sizes of cabinet screwdrivers for carburetor jets
die grinder
1/4" drive air ratchet
impact driver (because steel screws in aluminum/zinc is awesome)

also use a plastic mallet a lot.

Don't really use easy outs, they rarely work right. Usually faster to just center punch and drill-worse case scenario install a time-sert-which every shop should have.

 

[Can I try?]

I'd say you're pretty well covered on the basics, so don't go overboard.

That said, it wouldn't hurt to add a basic set of punches to your set. They're pretty much indispensible for any type of mechanical work.

 

[cmanningjr]

I would add an inch pound torque wrench and a manual impact driver..

Very helpful when working on small engines..


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[jcbarry]

Are you working at a dealership? What makes of outboards will you be servicing?

 

[ihateminimumwage]

I'm thinking I need spark board, timing light, compression tester, A good set of metric combination wrenches, 1/4 inch torque wrench, and some hammers like and dead blow, ball pin.

Most of the small engines I deal with are Generaors (Briggs, Generac, Honda, Tecumseh) so there is probably a lot of different stuff you'll be working on, but you have a good list going.

Definitely a 1/4" drive In/Lb. torque wrench (USA Gearwrench here, which they sadly don't offer anymore).

A good spark plug gapper. I've used a "Coin" style forever, but recently upgraded to a hard handled Snap-on FBP1O gapper for under $8 and couldn't be happier.
https://store.snapon.com/Specialty-Feeler-Gauges-Blade-Feeler-Pocket-P635164.aspx

A set of Torx keys/drivers in case you run into an engine that uses them adjusting valves. I have this NAPA branded set from Cripe in my road bag.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Napa-60300-...orx-Key-Set-/330582867455?hash=item4cf8463dff

A couple of others like 45 degree feeler gauges, 13mm & 14mm angle wrenches and an offset double box in the same sizes (I have an SK 87763 I found on eBay for $10) for loosening valve adjusting nuts.
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/wrenches-box-end-wrenches-27971.html

Anything to make adjusting valves easier, since you'll probably be doing it a lot and depending on the engine there can be obstacles.

 

[MW.]

A set of wrenches you don't mind modifying to get the job done. Harbor freight might do.
A good set of punches and chisels.
The best snap ring and lock ring pliers you can afford if your going to be dealing with them a lot.

 

[Superbec]

Impact screwdriver with good bits ph2 and ph3 for honda's, also some JIS vessel bits will be nice. p2 and p3

Carb float measurement tool , saves a lot of time and it's easier to use than a vernier caliper .

Pack of jet reamers and cleaner tools, also jet calibres set . (that if you don't want to be a hack , do ya?)

Also, if an old mech tells you more than 2 times a day "because we do it like that for 30 years" ... take all he tells you with a grain of salt, he may be cranky or just don't know wtf he's doing all that time.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

I'd go for the Grabit Pro drill bits over easy outs, personally. I want to try them myself.

 

[decableguy2000]

A good VOM if your working on generators. If your going to be working on two strokes a vacuum/ pressure tester is handy as well as a hand held tach. A set of carburetor adjustment tools. There are some flat head tools such as flywheel holders and valve spring compressors that are out there. Shop manuals biggest help with and repairs.

 

[Mastercraft81]

Alrigh thanks guys it sounds like I'm on the right track.