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Epoxy Coat- control joint torture?

jlansaw

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
48
Location
Central Illinois
O.K. getting ready to apply Epoxy Coat to my new shop floor. But holding me up is what to do about the 1/8" control joints criss crossing the floor as well as the 1/2" expansion joint around the perimeter of the floor. Do I fill or not fill? I want to fill for that seamless look, ease of cleaning, etc. But if I fill the joints with acrylic painters caulk (approved by Epoxy Coat) won't the floor coating be subject to cracking over the joint since the caulk remains flexible underneath. Does EC have some flexibilty or enough pure strength to bridge the joint without cracking? I can't see going through the trouble of coating the floor and leaving the joints unfilled however I don't want the coating to crack. Is there a flexible color matched filler that I can use after the coating is applied. (I have the beige Epoxy Coat full kits from Lowe's) This would make more sense to me. Guess I could use some beige caulk on top after the coating is down and hope the color is close enough as not to make the floor look bad. It would be better than a cracked finish on my seamless floor.

In summary, it's not the actual process that's stumping me, it's knowing what results to expect from my choices made during the application process now, 6 months, 3 years, 5 years down the road. I'm pretty close to not applying a coating at all if I can't figure this out. :lol_hitti

Any facts and most opinions would be greatly appreciated!
 
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hardhat

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
107
I wouldnt use bathroom caulk as suggested as I think its too soft and will make the epoxy eventually crack. The only thing I have found that is good to use under epoxy is a epoxy joint filler or a polyurea joint filler. There are a few options available. Legacy Industrial sells a epoxy joint filler as well as Wolverine. I went another route with polyurea cartidges. They were about $30. You just slightly overfill the joint then come back with a razor scraper and cutt off what sticks up. Plus the polyurea is dry in under and hour.
 

jcp907

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
167
Location
Seminole County, FL.
Subscribed...if all goes well, grinding some time this week, and hopefully, applying next weekend. I was planning on the caulking as well, but mine aren't expansion joints, just small cracks, and a few voids. I do share the same concern.

I am not sure if this will work for you...it probably won't as you need flexibility in those joints, but for those that know, is a concrete adhesive or filler (Lowes sells it in a tube fit for a caulk gun) sufficient?
 
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hardhat

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
107
Those are usually polyurethane and are not supposed to be a good bond with epoxy.
 
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