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epoxy coating a floor that was power trowled?

veedubman91

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most peoples garage floors have been power trowled to give that "smooth" finish to them. my question is for those that have that done, is there an issue with epoxy coating the floor? do you have to grind the floor to make it rough so the epoxy will bite better?
 
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porschedude996TT

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I'm in the same situation and was going to acid etch the floor to gain some tooth or grip for the epoxy coating. I got information from Fred [[email protected]], who is an active GJ member and I believe is the DIY Distributor for Wolverine Industrial Coatings. He has a concrete etch that is not as bad as muriatic acid. It is called OrganiPrep 921. I didn't like the idea of doing such a large area (1,200 sq ft) and all that acid to contend with and neutralizing it after the etch.
 
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veedubman91

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yeah i understand just what you mean. i am leaning towards the rustoleum kit for my floor and inside their kits are a floor prep/etch that is more based on a citric acid which they say is less toxic. i like the idea of that as well becuase i feel the same way you do with the muriatic acid
 
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veedubman91

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thanks for the info nate. i think that i am pretty set on going with u-coat it and muriatic acid for the etching
 

thegarageguy

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Acid etching is very inconsistent on a regular slab. On a power troweled it may be much more difficult for it to penetrate it properly. Even Diamond grinder machines have a hard time and sometimes just skate on the surface and take more weight and a longer time to prep.

When acid etching you are taking a huge risk of not opening the pores in some areas of the slab and you won't know until it's too late. Now you have a failed system and money down the drain. Do it right the first time and enjoy it for years to come.
 
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allsurfacecoating

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Sep 1, 2009
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Geday people.
I am not a fan for acid etching any concrete floor prior to epoxy coating.
Acid etching takes a fair bit of time and can be inconsistant as was stated by others.
After acid etching it is important that all traces of acid are removed and then you have to wait for the floor to dry. The moisture content of your floor to be treated is to be around 4 to 5% floor temp should be around 5 deg c or more.
Best bet if you are able to hire them would be a shot blaster they are available in a number of sizes for 240 volt or 3 phase power.
You might need to hand grind in close to walls.
Full grinding is next bet, be sure all dust is removed,wet by mist spray small portions of your floor in various places, if that mist spray soake immediately into your concrete slab, indicates open pore slab and your epoxy coating will be great.
 
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veedubman91

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thanks to everyone for the responses, looks like it's back to the drawing board for some more research. i do have easy access to tools such as a floor grinder so that might be the way i have to go.
 
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veedubman91

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i am so back and forth about this, i just want to make sure that if i spend all this time and money that i want to do it 100% right the first time, afterall this is a lot of work to perform and moving everything in the garage is a big undertaking.
 

nate379

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Get a gal or two of acid (around $6 each) and acid wash it and see what it does. If it looks like it will take well, carry on. If not get a grinder.

There were a couple spots that etched a little more deeply but it was pretty much even. My Dad did his a couple weekends ago, same way.

I'd imagine most garage slabs are power troweled... I haven't seen any that aren't anyway.
 
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