Epoxy over a real mess?

[bigfunwmu]

We recently acquired a foreclosed commercial building. The previous owner was a general contractor, and we can see a few clues about why they are no longer around.

One of these things is the office area was carpeted. That alone isn't the end of the world, but the carpet was put down over concrete and glued down with some kind of construction adhesive instead of carpet glue. This stuff comes up stringy and like a real SOB even years later. The carpet scraper tool would't lift it, even with a 6"4 290lb guy putting his full weight into it. We found a solvent that will basically rewet the glue, and has allowed us to get the carpet out. We got a floor grinder with some carbide teeth that did a great job planing the dried glue off the floor, but where it was still wet & sticky or had to be rewetted it just made a mess.

By the time this is done, the floor needs to be sealed and waterproof. The new occupant is a pet grooming business so there will be some spills and pee on the floor and nobody wants that soaking in.

Any ideas on where to go from here?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Epoxy with a urethane topcoat.
Use Diamabrush coatings removal tool for remnants of carpet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigfunwmu]

Pics:

First room

First room, close-up

First room is dry, white areas are concrete. Yellow is glue in low spots.


2nd room

2nd room we had to use solvent to get the glue to release the carpet. I am pretty sure this fool used remnants of 2 different cases of glue to stick this **** down. 2nd room floor is still kinda sticky, but less so as it dries. There is a very thin layer of glue over the whole floor in room #2.

 

[bigfunwmu]

Epoxy with a urethane topcoat.
Use Diamabrush coatings removal tool for remnants of carpet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will the epoxy go over the old dried glue and work ok?

I am going to bet it can't go over the stuff that is still tacky and get good results.

 

[benwah]

No, but if you remove the glue via grinding the epoxy will adhere just fine

 

[Garage Flooring]

No, but if you remove the glue via grinding the epoxy will adhere just fine

Epoxy with a urethane topcoat.
Use Diamabrush coatings removal tool for remnants of carpet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We recently acquired a foreclosed commercial building. The previous owner was a general contractor, and we can see a few clues about why they are no longer around.

One of these things is the office area was carpeted. That alone isn't the end of the world, but the carpet was put down over concrete and glued down with some kind of construction adhesive instead of carpet glue. This stuff comes up stringy and like a real SOB even years later. The carpet scraper tool would't lift it, even with a 6"4 290lb guy putting his full weight into it. We found a solvent that will basically rewet the glue, and has allowed us to get the carpet out. We got a floor grinder with some carbide teeth that did a great job planing the dried glue off the floor, but where it was still wet & sticky or had to be rewetted it just made a mess.

By the time this is done, the floor needs to be sealed and waterproof. The new occupant is a pet grooming business so there will be some spills and pee on the floor and nobody wants that soaking in.

Any ideas on where to go from here?

What they said.

Then primer, 100% solids epoxy and be REAL careful on your top coat selection. What is your plan where the floor meets the wall. If nothing else, I would remove the base that is there, prime under it with Kilz, reapply or replace with cove base and run a bead of caulk between the floor and the base. That is going to be your weakest point.

 

[Armorpoxy]

This job is going to require the rental of a proper diamond floor grinder to remove residual adhesive and get the floor 'opened up' to accept a coating. Scraping alone just won't do it.

Once done coat with something like our Armorclad 100% solids epoxy system with primer and military grade topcoat. We have hundreds of kennels using this system. Put up a proper vinyl cove when done and caulk it well, that should be fine.

 

[bigfunwmu]

Thanks for all the info and help. It really has helped determine the way we need to go, which will not be an epoxy coat applied by us.

The PL400 (or whatever it is) in the one room is still tacky even after full day of high air flow and venting.

We are calling a local pro to do this right. It looks like professional work will be both faster in the short term, and cheaper in the long run.

Thanks again!

 

[James-W]

We are calling a local pro to do this right. It looks like professional work will be both faster in the short term, and cheaper in the long run.

I agree, doing it yourself is fine for lots of things, but sometimes it is just a better deal to hire the work done.