Epoxy plus a Polyaspartic?

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Epoxy plus a Polyaspartic topcoat?

Given all of the options out there, I have a couple of questions for the flooring guys. I understand that a 100% solids epoxy will make a thicker floor with resistance to dropped objects and the ability to "fill in" minor imperfections. I also know that the modern polyaspartic coatings are "tougher" with a good abrasion resistance and will not yellow like an epoxy.

I have three question about these:

1) Are any of the polyaspartic coatings available in a "clear" coat?

2) Can a polyaspartic coating be applied over an epoxy coat?

3) Would a polyaspartic top coat wear better than a urethane top coat over an epoxy base coat?

 

[Cruzin90]

My opinion:

1. Yes! (Not an opinion, it's a fact.)

2. May I ask why you want to do that? If you're interested in a polyaspartic, why not stick with 100% polyaspartic?

3. Yes. You're talking a polyaspartic (100% polyurea) vs. a polyurethane. Typically, a polyurea will have a higher tear strength, higher tensile strength, better Taber abrasion, and a higher temperature tolerance than a polyurethane. If you're choosing a product, read the technical data sheet and compare ASTM results. However, make sure the test results are via the same ASTM test method.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

The reason for a polyaspartic topcoat is that they are fairly thin when applied (compared to an epoxy) and there are several small chips from dropped items in my floor as well as a few other imperfections that would be filled with an epoxy. I don't like chips but do want a white floor to make it easier to find something when I drop it and it will also help with the lighting.

I also thought that a polyaspartic was similar to but different than a polyurea but you are saying that they are the same?

 

[Cruzin90]

A polyaspartic is a type of polyurea. The polyaspartic is an aliphatic moisture cure polyurea (needs hydrogen from water molecules in air to complete the isocyanate/resin reaction). Another type of polyurea would be like spray-on bedliners: They are not moisture cure, the isocyanate and resin mix and dry in seconds.

The application method of the polyaspartic will render different thicknesses. However, you're better off with multiple thin applications than one thick application. By thin, I mean 2 to 6 mil with no problems.

 

[PaulR]

My opinion:

3. Yes. You're talking a polyaspartic (100% polyurea) vs. a polyurethane. Typically, a polyurea will have a higher tear strength, higher tensile strength, better Taber abrasion, and a higher temperature tolerance than a polyurethane. If you're choosing a product, read the technical data sheet and compare ASTM results. However, make sure the test results are via the same ASTM test method.

Alphagarage says this is like comparing apples to oranges, and you really should compare apples to apples.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Re: Epoxy plus a Polyaspartic topcoat?

Given all of the options out there, I have a couple of questions for the flooring guys. I understand that a 100% solids epoxy will make a thicker floor with resistance to dropped objects and the ability to "fill in" minor imperfections. I also know that the modern polyaspartic coatings are "tougher" with a good abrasion resistance and will not yellow like an epoxy.

I have three question about these:

1) Are any of the polyaspartic coatings available in a "clear" coat?

2) Can a polyaspartic coating be applied over an epoxy coat?

3) Would a polyaspartic top coat wear better than a urethane top coat over an epoxy base coat?

Answers:
1. It is readily available in clear, gray and beige.
2. Yes, most folks use it this way.
3. It will have better elongation and is the most "clear" you can get, bar none.

 

[Cruzin90]

Alphagarage says this is like comparing apples to oranges, and you really should compare apples to apples.

I agree....