Epoxy Questions

[jw3571]

I thought I was going to go Racedeck for my new garage floor but I think i've reconsidered and am going to go epoxy. I plan on washing my car in the garage and i'm concerned about all the dirt and other stuff that will get on the floor and the possibility of have to take up the floor to clean. Does epoxy have to be installed at a certain temperature? It's winter here in Utah, do I need to wait until spring? How long does the concrete have to cured before it's installed? And lastly, what kind of cost/per square foot are we talking for professional install. My garage is around 500sf.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Unless you are heated, 50 deg f and above is best.
4-6 psqft pro
1.3-1.5 psqft DIY (tri coat with flakes)
We recommend 45 days to cure.

 

[kgorman]

I used racedeck with the perforations and put landscape fabric underneath. Works excellent for washing the car in the garage. That said I am not in a snowy climate here in Austin the the de ris is minimal. I do see the water flow out the end as I wash so I know it's sloped reasonably well.

 

[Notgrownup]

That darned 50 degrees can't get here quick enough...LOL...I am so itching to get mine cleared...LOL... My wife tells me Patience , I tell her patience belong in hospitals...LOL

 

[ryanwagt]

There must be 100 posts on recommendations of epoxy floors, but my searches come up empty. Can anyone direct me to threads that deal with recommendations of brands and installation techniques that are somewhat recent. The last ones I found were 2010 I assume there have been advances in product since then?

 

[Garage Flooring]

So I am going to totally backtrack on a lot of what I have said in the past. There are a lot of great coatings product out there and they are very simply a lot of work and don't adhere well in the cold.

There are a lot of crappy products out there that claim they work with 'secret sauce' etching agents and epoxy that is mostly water. I've said probably 100 times in this forum that there is no easy garage floor coatings and that the cheap ones are great for grinder rental sales BUT

There is a company out of Nevada, that I originally learned about via Shea, that makes a high solids urethane that was originally developed for abrasion resistance on the wings of aircraft.

Since then it has become a hot product in the automotive industry, and commercial/industrial jobs have taken a liking to it for coating concrete because it does not require the prep work of traditional epoxy and holds up much better than paint.

If your looking for a high build, full broadcast system, this is not the right system. If you are looking for a great coating starting at around .83/sf (for both coats) this stuff is nothing short of incredible. AND IT CAN BE APPLIED TO A SURFACE TEMP of 35 Degrees.


http://www.garageflooringllc.com/rust-bullet-concrete/

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yikes, even acrylic sealers (much more forgiving than urethane) require a modest amount of prep. Putting MCU direct to concrete is a coin flip with or without proper preparation. If you lose you will have the largest piece of saran wrap you have ever seen.

 

[benwah]

We have 2 very high solid polyurethanes, 91% and 100% respectively. And while I am sure your product and my products differ greatly, only the 100% solid polyurethane is recommended to go directly to concrete 40 degrees or warmer, after being prepared to an ICRI-CSP 3 or greater..

I would like to see this stuff in action. Do you have a product data sheet and/or technical testing data on this product?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Yikes, even acrylic sealers (much more forgiving than urethane) require a modest amount of prep. Putting MCU direct to concrete is a coin flip with or without proper preparation. If you lose you will have the largest piece of saran wrap you have ever seen.

I have always been right there with you guys saying no prep, no way. Heck I have been saying it for over a decade. Then I met this product. Mind changed