The following is based on my experience. I did my family room/foyer, hallway and coat closet. About 700 square feet. I did it in 2 12 hour days.
You do NOT need to fill the holes from the tack strips.
There's a specification for a moisture test...something like taping a 12" X 12" square of plastic down and checking for condensation. If you have it, some sort of sealer is necessary. Otherwise, black vapor barrier (i think its 6mil), then underlayment if your floor or vapor barrier doesn't have it attached, then start laying the laminate. Don't get a cheap pull bar, you'll bend the part you hit with the mallet. Make sure the little piece of felt on the pull bar doesn't come off so you're scratching the floor underneath the part your hitting with the mallet.
Glue your seams at any place where there may be moisture (sinks, exterior doorways, etc).
You'll want to check for large depressions, like shallow holes or distortions in the concrete. Self leveling compound, or mortar screeded and trowled flat is a must. A large depression is worse than a sharp small hole. Anything bigger than about a 8" square or round will make the floor spongy.
Try not to finish near a doorway or stair well if you can avoid it.
One of the vibrating multi-tools (dremel, fein) is a must if you have existing trim. A flush cut or back cut saw just wont do it.
A good sharp 60 tooth carbide tipped blade on your table and mitre saw.
Follow the instructions related to expansion, otherwise the seams will tent. Also, if you can avoid putting the laminate around doorways, it will ease the expansion problems you'll encounter. Normally, the install instructions will recommend a joint at most doorways that you're going through.
