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fixxing log splitter

NJHandyGuy

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Feb 21, 2010
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3,997
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Brick Nj baby
okay i recntly was GIVEN a northern tool log splitter needing 1 thing

the wedge at teh opposite end of the ram broke off.

What is the best way to fix this what kind of weld and at what kind of pattern?


obviously there will be TONS of crushing forces being applies here thanks in advance for teh help
 
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toxicz28

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Sep 23, 2006
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NY
3/8 to 1/2" of weld all the way around the wedge (3 full passes). Do it with stick and use a 70xx electrode.
 

Tantara

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May 22, 2008
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+1 on toxicz28

Also clean up were you are welding and make sure it fits tight. Don't have any gaps.


Brad
 

MoonRise

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Nov 5, 2010
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Step one is to look at it and try to figure out WHY it broke off.

Corrosion? Overload? Poor original design? Poor original workmanship/welding? Some or all of the above?

Once you have a pretty good idea of WHY it previously broke off, then you can go about addressing putting it back together in a way that prevents or minimizes it breaking off again.

But in general, you have to grind off any 'iffy' metal in the broken area(s) and then if it was welded you weld it back together as appropriate.

Stick aka SMAW welding is -usually- appropriate for 'heavy duty' things being welded together.
 
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wasfuzz

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Nov 16, 2010
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Mn
Look at the Northern Tool catalog they do carry replacement wedges and as I remember they were not to badly priced.
 

Valkyrie Rider

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Mar 8, 2007
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Location
Thomaston, CT
Unless it was a faulty weld to begin with, that should have NEVER broken off!
The hydro set-ups on those machines will have a relief valve that kicks out at a certain pressure. Even maxing out the pressure should not overload the splitter to the point of breaking if it was made properly.

The "tonnage" is almost ALWAYS (maybe always) over rated on splitters.

I'd like to see pics of the break!

As for welding it up, You should have a fair sized machine to re-weld. A 120V MIG isn't going to cut it.

As for prep... without seeing it it's hard to determine what is needed, but if it's two thick parts, I'd bevel both and do multiple passes.
 

oleblu

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Apr 18, 2006
Messages
128
First, let me give you my background and qualifications. I'm just a farm boy that can weld, has no engineering experience, and has a tendancy to overbuild most things.
I'd never weld a wedge on the top of the beam, I just don't think there is enough penetration to do a reliable job.

I'd get a piece of 1"x 4" bar stock (cold rolled is good enough), length is heighth of your wedge plus the depth of your beam. Notch the end of your beam (cutting out just enough of both flanges and the web) to accept the 1"x4" piece.

Before the 1x4 is welded in you should sharpen the portion that will be the wedge. I'd bevel it back on both sides aprox. 2", starting the rough shaping with a torch and do the finishing with a 7" or 9" side grinder.

Good luck with this project.
 
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