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Found a “new” drill press…

bliorg

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Sep 23, 2024
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My 30+ year old Chinese no-name bench top drill press died a few weeks ago. Have wanted a vintage Delta for a good while. Have found some options (posted about some a bit ago, decided to pass based on the feedback here). However, picked this up today:

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Delta-Rockwell 15-665. According to grok, serial puts it at Bellafontaine Ohio manufacture, 1968. In really nice shape, apart from some surface rust and some errant holes in the table. I have no way to measure runout, but compared to the drill press I’ve been using for more than two decades, it’s perfect. Half horse motor; I have a 1-1/2 hp Century, same frame and speed, that may get dropped in at some point just for fun. Light switch will get swapped out for an A/B manual motor starter. Really, though, that’s it. Guy I got it from ran a robotics program and had his students do some restoration on it as an introductory project. My wonderful wife helped me heft it into the truck and drag it into the garage. Paid $100. Feel okay about that. Will see about 99% woodworking duty, and only as much metalwork as drilling some small holes in brass or thin steel.

T’was a good day.
 
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lilredex

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Looks good for $100. Just needs a mobile base, something like the one pictured.
 

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Beerhippie

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First thing it needs is a proper, three-conductor grounded cord and a real motor-rated switch--not to mention a cover for the damned switch box.

Looks like an excellent $100 score.
 
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bliorg

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First thing it needs is a proper, three-conductor grounded cord and a real motor-rated switch--not to mention a cover for the damned switch box.

Looks like an excellent $100 score.
Definitely - I have the mms picked out. And other than the initial testing, thing’s staying unplugged until it gets re-corded.

Strangely, there IS a cover on the box. Lucite. Dunno.IMG_9600.jpeg
 
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bliorg

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Stole it for $100. That's the less common 6X6, 6speeds, 6" quill travel, nice.
Lol - he was just happy to get it out of his garage! Super nice dude, chatted with him for about 20 minutes. Occasionally have a good experience with Marketplace.

Have a starter on order (still need to order an overload). And surprisingly Lowe's as cheap (and in stock) on 14/3 SJOOW cord. Next trip there will net me about a dozen feet.
 
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bliorg

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Was going to do 12/3 but the box on the motor is small; that, and the fact that I have very limited real estate in my garage/shop means that it really won't be moving much, if at all. planning on finishing the cord out somewhere around 10', which is actually overkill for my garage. Open to hearing thoughts on it, though - I think Lowe's is about the same price/foot for the 12/3.
 

Beerhippie

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I can't read the data plate on the motor--how many amps does it draw? If 14 or less, 14 AWG is dandy for a 10' cord.

The reason I--and the previous poster--suggested heavy-duty extension cords is that they often pencil out cheaper than an equivalent length of SOW (or whatever) and a good quality plug. Around here anyway, that's the way I roll.
 
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bliorg

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FLA at 115V, which is how I’m wiring it, is 8.2 amp. Agree on the extension cord; I already have an armored plug I bought about 12 years ago for a tool I subsequently sold, so I’m happy to finally use it.
 
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bliorg

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Square D 2510FGj2 FHP MMS has arrived, A11.0 overload should be here tomorrow. Need to pick up some cording from Lowe's. Stupid question (admittedly - don't roast me): Where's the best place to mount the box? Original on the head; replacement on the head. Grok (yeah - I know) says to drill and tap somewhere above the minimum table height on the column. Have never seen that. Anyone heard of that one?I will say that, eye level for me feels kind of weird, though I'm guessing would get used to. Thoughts?

(BTW, keeping all rehab-related posts on this thread unless there's a reason not to...)
 
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tool_scrounge

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You might want to look at EBay for one of the original switches that fit the casting without the junction box. Here are a couple examples out of my switch junk drawer.

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RTM

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Grok (yeah - I know) says to drill and tap somewhere above the minimum table height on the column. Have never seen that. Anyone heard of that one?I will say that, eye level for me feels kind of weird, though I'm guessing would get used to. Thoughts?

I'm not sure I'd want to be reaching back to the column to shut off a drill. On my Benchtop, I have a foot switch. Stuff goes sideways, move your foot. Reach in past a spinning drill bit? Not my idea of a smart move. Grok answer sounds like natural selection at work.

(BTW, keeping all rehab-related posts on this thread unless there's a reason not to...)
Very good idea, IMO
 
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bliorg

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I'm not sure I'd want to be reaching back to the column to shut off a drill. On my Benchtop, I have a foot switch. Stuff goes sideways, move your foot. Reach in past a spinning drill bit? Not my idea of a smart move. Grok answer sounds like natural selection at work.


Very good idea, IMO
Fair enough. I wasn’t sure on that, either, though left side scares me less. Leaning back to reach up and block my line of sight seems weird, too; I think foot switch is the answer here. Thanks.
 

crguy

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Don't like foot switches. I mount switches up high on the left side of the head, out of the way of anything that might be spinning. Most people use their right hand to control the quill handle. If something tries to grab, etc., you usually don't want to let the handle go so you can reach the switch.
 

danielbuck

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Don't like foot switches. I mount switches up high on the left side of the head, out of the way of anything that might be spinning. Most people use their right hand to control the quill handle. If something tries to grab, etc., you usually don't want to let the handle go so you can reach the switch.
unless you're using your left hand to hold the material! We've all been there. :sneaky:
 
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