I'm building my 20x20 garage and it will have 12" overhang on the gable ends. I'm not quite sure how to go about framing the overhang. Is it standard practice to just nail lookouts to the gable end truss? Any help is appreciated. I'm in Minnesota.
Framing Gable end overhang
- Thread starter markzrt1
- Start date
Tscott
Well-known member
On our new house the crews left an overhang of OSB then used 2x4's under the overhang to strengthen it. They then capped all the 2x4' to give a nice finished look.
Tom
Tom
dipper
Well-known member
I built what they call a "barge rafter". It is a 2x6, laying flat; that is connected to the 2nd rafter in by end-nailing. The gable rafter has a 2x6 notch cut so it can be nailed through the top into the rafter. I have them spaced every 4' so they line up on the plywood joints for the roof deck.
Your gable end fascia board would attach to those.
Here's a pic:
Your gable end fascia board would attach to those.
Here's a pic:
Northstar9126
Well-known member
The end truss should be 3 1/2 inches shorter than the rest of the trusses. Then you nail lookouts (short 2x4s) to the second truss in from the end at a 90 degree angle, rest them on top of the shorter end truss sticking out however long you want the overhang. Don't forget to deduct 1 1/2 inches from the length of the look outs to compensate for the facia. Your eaves won't sag over time if you do it this way. Myself, I let the lookouts "run wild" then snap a chaulk line and cut them off once they are in place. Clear as mud Huh ?
This is what I was thinking of doing. Seems strong to account for snow load.
Northstar9126
Well-known member
I built what they call a "barge rafter". It is a 2x6, laying flat; that is connected to the 2nd rafter in by end-nailing. The gable rafter has a 2x6 notch cut so it can be nailed through the top into the rafter. I have them spaced every 4' so they line up on the plywood joints for the roof deck.
Your gable end fascia board would attach to those.
Here's a pic:
Around here it is a big "no no" to cut into trusses or rafters.
dipper
Well-known member
Looking in the NYS residential code, there are limits as to how much can be notched; mostly regarding the depth of the notch in the rafter member. It does not exceed the maximum so is therefore to code. That is with rafters, certainly trusses are a different game and I wouldn't be cutting into any engineered trusses. That flexibility is one of the reasons i went with the ceiling joist/ rafters for my build; and they were cheaper!
I am used to seeing it done northstars way.
In fact the end wals are not made with a truss. Just normal virtical stud framing with the top slant 3 1/2 low. They build the whole overhang out of 2x4's on the ground, it looks like a ladder, then hoist it up and nail it to the face of the first inside truss.
I have seen 3 foot overhangs done this way in N. IL and S. WI.
In fact the end wals are not made with a truss. Just normal virtical stud framing with the top slant 3 1/2 low. They build the whole overhang out of 2x4's on the ground, it looks like a ladder, then hoist it up and nail it to the face of the first inside truss.
I have seen 3 foot overhangs done this way in N. IL and S. WI.
Bigger Hammer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2007
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This is how I've always done them. It's def. not the fastest way to do it but the right usually never is the fastest.
We called them rakes. I almost always build the rake on the ground. All the perpendicular 2x4's and the subfascia board nailed together and then slide the whole works up on the roof at once and nail it into place. The only thing that gets tricky doing it this way is if the first truss/rafter in from the gable isn't perfectly straight. But that pitfall can be avoided with a couple braces and a string line to straighten the 1st truss prior to nailing the rake in place.
Special end trusses were stumping my supplier so I simply framed the "ladder" on the ground with 2x6s nailed with 16Ds and screwed in key locations and screwed it to my regular end truss (after wall sheathing). The roof sheathing is then cantileavered out onto the overhang on all sheets to provide additional support. This was the answer given to my by local contractors vice stickbuilding the entire gable end, including rafters, 3-1/2 or 5-1/2" lower than the truss plane. I will agree not as strong, but probably won't have any problems. Just an option if you are too far along mark.
Also, modifying the gable end rafters or trusses will in almost all cases not affect the strucural integrity due to the gable wall supporting it. In my case this was not the case because I undersized my garage doors headers underneath the gable end (this is allowed because the truss is carrying the roof load) because of ceiling/door height issues. I therefore did not want to modify the trusses.
Also, modifying the gable end rafters or trusses will in almost all cases not affect the strucural integrity due to the gable wall supporting it. In my case this was not the case because I undersized my garage doors headers underneath the gable end (this is allowed because the truss is carrying the roof load) because of ceiling/door height issues. I therefore did not want to modify the trusses.
Northstar9126
Well-known member
Obviously more than one way to Git Er Done.
Around here ordering end trusses has never been a problem for me just tell them what I want and they show up banded to the rest of the trusses.
The method you descibe will work. My concern would be with a long overhang (say 2 feet or more) sagging over time. That drives me nuts.
I got the dropped end trusses and hope to be installing them this weekend. I have a few questions aboutthe lookouts. If I want a 18" overhang, should the lookout measure 16.5" measured from the wall sheathing? Then add the 1.5" for the sub fascia? Does the roof sheathing line up flush with the rafter tails or does it go over the sub fascia? thanks.
Northstar9126
Well-known member
Your lookouts will need to extend 16 1/2" beyond the wall sheathing. The overall length of the lookouts will be the 16 1/2" plus 1 1/2" ( on top of drop truss) plus whatever the distance is between end truss and second truss in from end. Assuming that you are putting the lookouts up one at a time rather than building ladder on the ground. When you measure the distance between the two trusses you might want to do it down where they sit on the wall as there may be some wiggle in the trusses up at the top. Yes you want the roof sheathing to cover the sub-facia. If you haven't got those drop trusses up there yet go ahead and mark where the lookouts will sit, always earier to do what you can on the ground.
i did just this. problem is, my inspector said these weren't up to 2006 code, and he wants a "ladder" built out of 2x10's to match the 2x10 rafters. i want to leaves the eaves and rakes exposed, so this will just look f'n goofy.
GT350RC
Well-known member
That's the way I did it, then I put metal drip edge on before laying down the shingles. I'm using aluminum fascia, and just tuck it under the drip edge, then nail it in place.
I also built a ladder frame on the ground, but used 2x4's and faced it with a 1x6 (my overhang is only 12") - this was done before the roof was sheathed.
Northstar9126
Well-known member
It will look better if you match the overhang all of the way around.
I am with Northstar on the drooping concern. The only thing you have in tension is the roof sheathing. With 2x6 lookouts, you may be OK. The extra depth will be in compression and take some of the load. I would never do it that way with 2x4's.
There is no real standard depth for overhangs. In the mid-west most are between 12 and 18 inchs. But I have seen 36 inch and zero inchs.
But do match them all around. It does look better.
There is no real standard depth for overhangs. In the mid-west most are between 12 and 18 inchs. But I have seen 36 inch and zero inchs.
But do match them all around. It does look better.