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Framing Nails 3-1/2

ddurrett896

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Mar 29, 2015
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VA
Where are you guys finding 3-1/2 framing nails for pneumatic nail gun? 3-1/4 is all I'm finding locally and online it's hit or miss.

Need a diameter of .113-.148

Didn't know if anyone had a go to site for everything. Thanks!
 
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RocketScott

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Your not finding them because framers in your area aren't using them.

Most use 10d framers which are .131 x 3"

That extra 1/4 or 1/2 isn't doing much for you, except ripping things up because they stick out everywhere.

It's about girth, not length.
 

Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
If the 1/2" extra is going into solid meat, may be a valid spec.

If it's hanging in the air, such as 2 2x's, then I see no major benefit to have the 1/2" hanging out.

Just my opinion...and I always overbuild belt and suspenders both.

Marc
 

Tejay

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Laminated beams often specify 3 1/2” nails . For framing lumber that length requires a well stocked first aid kit.
 

Fixin'Stuff

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If you drive the nails straight (perpendicular to the surface), then you'll have the end sticking out. If you lay the base of the nail gun flat onto the wood, then the nails will go in on an angle and not stick out the other side. (Ever notice that framing nailers say something like "21 degree framing nailer" in the product description?) This also provides a stronger connection since the nail can no longer easily back out of the hole over the years due to expansion/contraction/vibration, etc. With the nails on an angle the lumber would have to move in a compound angle to slide up the nail.

I just had to go through and reset the ends of the ceiling joists in my garage because the original framers had nailed the ends dead straight into the rafters. Over the the last 25 years the joists began pulling away from the rafters, since the only resistance to movement was the nails, in a straight line. I was able to pull them back into place with a large C-clamp. Now they're nailed on an angle, from both the joist side and the rafter side, so the nails are in an X pattern as viewed from above. To pull apart now will require that the nails actually bend. :)
 

maxpat82

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Dec 9, 2012
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275
3-1/4 is common
my dad is selling pneumatic nailer nail and staple for 30years and 3-1/2 is not readily available nowaday.
some client have always used that in the past and were still asking for it, but they all went to 3-1/4:|

might be possible to have an order done but it would be at specialized distributor only...forget about the small reseller and big box store.
 
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RocketScott

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What if plans call for 3 1/2?

The engineer can specify an alternative if someone is really picky. I've been called for using staples on gables in stead of 8d. The engineer just has to spec the nail pattern.

...(Ever notice that framing nailers say something like "21 degree framing nailer" in the product description?)...

I just had to go through...

A. 21 degrees is the angle of the guns magazine. Has little to do with the angle you can shoot it.

B. That's why we block between joists and rafters now and have for some time, to keep them from rolling.
 

6768rogues

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Western NY
If you drive the nails straight (perpendicular to the surface), then you'll have the end sticking out. If you lay the base of the nail gun flat onto the wood, then the nails will go in on an angle and not stick out the other side. (Ever notice that framing nailers say something like "21 degree framing nailer" in the product description?) This also provides a stronger connection since the nail can no longer easily back out of the hole over the years due to expansion/contraction/vibration, etc. With the nails on an angle the lumber would have to move in a compound angle to slide up the nail.

I just had to go through and reset the ends of the ceiling joists in my garage because the original framers had nailed the ends dead straight into the rafters. Over the the last 25 years the joists began pulling away from the rafters, since the only resistance to movement was the nails, in a straight line. I was able to pull them back into place with a large C-clamp. Now they're nailed on an angle, from both the joist side and the rafter side, so the nails are in an X pattern as viewed from above. To pull apart now will require that the nails actually bend. :)
They don't say 21 degree nailer because the nails go in the board at a 21 degree angle. They say 21 degree nailer because the stick of nails is canted at a 21 degree angle so they fit in the gun magazine.
 

Fixin'Stuff

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The engineer can specify an alternative if someone is really picky. I've been called for using staples on gables in stead of 8d. The engineer just has to spec the nail pattern.



A. 21 degrees is the angle of the guns magazine. Has little to do with the angle you can shoot it.

B. That's why we block between joists and rafters now and have for some time, to keep them from rolling.

It's not a question of the angle that you CAN shoot it at, it's more a question of the angle that you SHOULD shoot it at. I understand that most framers just want to get on to the next job as quickly as possible, but nailing on an angle results in a stronger connection. Nailing straight in lets the joint pull apart way easier than when you nail on an angle. The wood can't slide back off of the nail easily because the wood would have to move in a compound direction, rather than just one direction.

In the short term, the straight nail seems strong enough. But time, vibration, thermal cycling, etc. can eventually pull the connection apart.
 

Fixin'Stuff

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They don't say 21 degree nailer because the nails go in the board at a 21 degree angle. They say 21 degree nailer because the stick of nails is canted at a 21 degree angle so they fit in the gun magazine.

You're half right. ;) If you lay the base of the nail gun against the lumber, the nail will indeed go in at a 21 degree angle.
 

RocketScott

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It's not a question of the angle that you CAN shoot it at, it's more a question of the angle that you SHOULD shoot it at. I understand that most framers just want to get on to the next job as quickly as possible, but nailing on an angle results in a stronger connection. Nailing straight in lets the joint pull apart way easier than when you nail on an angle. The wood can't slide back off of the nail easily because the wood would have to move in a compound direction, rather than just one direction.

In the short term, the straight nail seems strong enough. But time, vibration, thermal cycling, etc. can eventually pull the connection apart.

Just stop.

You are not contributing anything useful here.

To keep a 3.5" nail in a 3" build up you'd have to angle the nail past 31 degrees. A 3.25" nail would need to go close to 23 degrees.

Even with a 3" nail it needs to be angled a little to keep the point from sticking out. I don't not keep an angle gauge on my nail gun so I don't know exactly what that angle is. I certainly don't put the track of my gun on the lumber to set it.

The OP was looking for nails that aren't prevalent. I explained the reason for that.

Go educate yourself:

Wood Frame Construction Manual

National Design Specification for Wood Construction
 
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