Framing Question

[chaingang]

I may be trying to over think this but, how do you build/attach the overhangs on the gable ends? My trusses have a 2ft overhang on each side and I would like to have at least 18in(too much?) overhangs front and back. The gable trusses are 2x4's and I would need a 2x6 fascia board so that they match the sides since the other trusses are 2x6 top chords. Thought about lag bolting a ladder style frame work to the truss but don't think this would be strong enough. I need to get these done so I can get the decking and felt down. I have done all the framing and setting of trusses to this point but this has me puzzled. Any framers out there? I would appreciate all suggestions. Pics would probably be helpful also.
Thanks,

 

[twostory]

check out this link

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/framing/frame_5.htm

Look at the "Building Gable End Overhangs" section.

If your "lookouts" are short (12 inches or less) you can just make a 2x ladder and nail it to the gable side, then the roof decking cantilevers on top of this ladder to actually support it.

If you want to make a wide eave (beyond 12 inches), your lookouts need a little more support.

My garage roof is very similar to yours. I stick built the gable end, and used roof trusses everywhere else. I built the gable end wall 3.5 inches lower than the roof line, then I just used 2x4 lookouts that tie into the last roof truss, sit on top of the gable end wall, and stick 24 inches out into open space.

Here is a drawing of what you want to do, apparently a 16 inch lookout is allowed.

http://www.tdi.state.tx.us/wind/images/artwork/306.3.1D.gif

To get the full 24 inch eave, you could try some 45 degree 2x lumber to provide support for the lookouts and the roof. Sorta like a timber built house look. I could not find any pictures of this, but it would you would see the supports, so you would have to trim them out to make them look nice (as opposed to an after thought)

I also read that you could notch the gable end truss, then notch the lookout. Then put the notched lookout into the notched gable end truss.

Now the lookout could be tied to the "next to last" roof truss, then stick out into mid air, but it would be cantilevered, not just nailed into the end of the building.

Goodluck

 

[z28toz06]

knee braces

 

[RAMBIN]

this seems to be a verry odd situation. whoever sold u the truss's should have sold you 2 gable endwall trusses for either end that are 3.5" lower in dimension then the regular truss allowing you to use it as a cantilever from the 2nd truss in line, this way u could have the 2' eve on the gable ends as well. hope i didnt confuse you too much with my explanation. basicly a gable truss i a touch smaller then a reg truss

 

[snorvet]

I did it the way that iron_786 describes, except I built my own gable ends 5-1/2" lower than the trusses, and then installed 2x6's perpendicular over the gable ends and nailed them into the first truss in from the end wall. The 2x6's are whatever length you need for an overhang. I nailed the fascia to the outside end of the 2x6's.

 

[mjribeiro]

I face nailed a 2x6 through the sheathing to the truss studs. Then came off with perpindicular pieces of 2x6, I think 16", then I capped it with a 1x6, then ran the roof sheathing over the whole thing. Having that first 2X face nailed gives you a surface to attach your soffit material, plus its probably needed to distribute the weight of the overhang (with snow load) across the gable end truss.

 

[chaingang]

Thanks for the replies, the shorter truss seems so obvious now. No the truss designer didn't design a shorter truss and since this is the first time I have framed anything I didn't know to ask about it ahead of time. He knew my side overhangs were 24 inches, you would think he should have asked about the gables.
The article "twostory" linked to has a solution that I will use. After talking with a couple of builders today, the notched truss seems to be the most common way of doing it here anyway. Not much chance of snow load.

 

[RAMBIN]

Thanks for the replies, the shorter truss seems so obvious now. No the truss designer didn't design a shorter truss and since this is the first time I have framed anything I didn't know to ask about it ahead of time. He knew my side overhangs were 24 inches, you would think he should have asked about the gables.
The article "twostory" linked to has a solution that I will use. After talking with a couple of builders today, the notched truss seems to be the most common way of doing it here anyway. Not much chance of snow load.

sounds like the guy who sold u the trusses is as smart as a fence post it is such an easy wat to do it and the strongest as well

 

[twostory]

Chaingang,

After thinking about your problem some more, here is another solution.

Pick up the gable end truss, cut some material off the bottom of the truss and then you can cantilever your lookouts. From your pictures it looks like the bottom of the gable end truss is fully supported, so the bottom cord of the truss is not really in tension, only compression from the vertical 2x4s.

goodluck

 

[wilbilt]

I also read that you could notch the gable end truss, then notch the lookout. Then put the notched lookout into the notched gable end truss.

Now the lookout could be tied to the "next to last" roof truss, then stick out into mid air, but it would be cantilevered, not just nailed into the end of the building.

I did similar on my inlaw's garage, except I didn't notch the lookout.

I notched the end two rafters (it is ridge and rafter rather than trusses) every few feet, and used 2x4s on the flat for lookouts. The lookouts "seat" in the notches in the two end rafters, and continue back to **** against the 3rd rafter from the end, where they are also nailed.