Garage Lighting Upgrade

[Dolfan]

OK, after too many years of not having enough light I figured it was time to make an upgrade.

This is what I'm starting with! Remind me to thank the builder!

I've decide to go with 5 2x48 T8 fixtures. 3 will go in the same location as the original "outdoor lights", then with some flex conduit I'll run two on either side of the center bay over the walk way in between the cars. Those two will be parallel to the walking/working area and perpendicular to the other lights. I used a format like this in my wood working shop to help reduce shadows and it worked pretty well.

This is what I'm working with, the fixtures are only about $19, so with bulbs and related parts I'll only have maybe $125 in this job.

I figure I can do this and then assess how bright it is and add a couple more toward the doors of the garage as needed. We'll see soon enough!

 

[Norcal]

Spend some extra money now & buy a better quality fixture, the ballasts are cheap in that model & for the money the Lithonia "LB" series wraparound is a much better choice, with the cost of a replacement ballast being almost the cost of that one you bought when they fail & one is still left w/ cheap $19 fixture costing about the same as a better model.

 

[Dolfan]

Spend some extra money now & buy a better quality fixture, the ballasts are cheap in that model & for the money the Lithonia "LB" series wraparound is a much better choice, with the cost of a replacement ballast being almost the cost of that one you bought when they fail & one is still left w/ cheap $19 fixture costing about the same as a better model.

The next model I could see up the line at HD was a $29 version, I think another Lithonia, but the plastic cover was a milky white plastic. The looks good in a kitchen but I felt that it would not let as much light through as this more "crystal" like clear plastic finish.

Maybe if I get to a Lowes I'll have more choices, I'm surrounded by HD but Lowes is out of the way for me, too bad I prefer them over HD!

 

[Norcal]

One of the reasons I like/recommend the Lithonia LB series fixture is the diffuser is easy to find a replacement for, plus the ballast is fairly decent also, the 19 buck model will not be as easy to replace IMO, and for the price the ballast is cheap as they can get, I think HD charges $38-39.00 for LB wrap.

Blowes handles Cooper/ Metalux fixtures.

 

[Random Guy]

The thing about that fixture (I have 2 in my bonus room) is that it has to be mounted on a j-box to put the connections in, unlike most fluorescent fixtures where you can make up the connection in the fixture.

Also, I personally would run EMT instead of flex. It'll look a whole lot better.

 

[Dolfan]

The thing about that fixture (I have 2 in my bonus room) is that it has to be mounted on a j-box to put the connections in, unlike most fluorescent fixtures where you can make up the connection in the fixture.

Also, I personally would run EMT instead of flex. It'll look a whole lot better.

EMT? What is this? My plan for this plastic type flex was to just hit it with white spay paint to blend it with the ceiling.

My plan was to knock a 1/2 hole in the end and chain one through the flex to one mounted to the three existing J-boxes

 

[Dolfan]

EMT? Sorry just looked it up and it is the standard rigid metal conduit, just didn't know the EMT shorthand! I don't have a bender for the corners and didn't think it would be worth it for a small job like this.

That's why I figured go with the flex, and I will attach it with a hanger as well to the ceiling.

 

[MrMark]

I would check codes. I doubt you can run any flex (greenfield) exposed. The bender is cheap.

I am even wondering if the code makes any distinction between romex and flex as far as requiring protection from physical damage.

 

[Dolfan]

I would check codes. I doubt you can run any flex (greenfield) exposed. The bender is cheap.

I am even wondering if the code makes any distinction between romex and flex as far as requiring protection from physical damage.

Interesting comment on the codes, I wouldn't have thought flex was a problem, but now that you've brought that up I'll ask a couple questions.

You can see from the first picture of the ceiling that I have 3 junction boxes, one at the front of each bay and that is it. So putting up 3 lights is a no brainer. In order to add more light to get better directional coverage I want to add a couple in he space between where the cars are park to light the sides of vehicles.

Last night I began to add a box in the first space, cut the hole and began to try to get a fish tape through, then put my arm up in the whole to find that this area of the house is built with the solid type engineered lumber I-beam, not the type that is open with angled cross pieces. So I patched the whole and figured I'd go back to the original plan of running the extra lights on the ceiling.

Your point on code may be more involved, I was planning to just put the conduit into the end of the fixture and secure it and run the romex from unit to unit and wire it with no junction boxes. If I do this with rigid or flex, I'm not sure if that meets code? I know some places like bathroom vanity lights, I've seen where the romex just comes out of the wall into a fixture? I'm not a practicing or licensed electrician but I have sen that on some newer construction homes, doesn't mean it is right!

So how would you guy suggest adding lighting locations without tearing down the ceiling and starting over with wiring! I would like it to be code compliant if possible.

 

[MrMark]

Well, I'll check the code for you later. I generally don't like any exposed conduits, even in a garage, and it looks like you have a nice space, BUT, EMT painted white probably is going to be easiest for you unless you have an attic over that garage.

I don't understand your plan with the conduit going into the end of the fixture and then romex????? Scratch head.

 

[MrMark]

Which way do the joists run? Parallel to the direction you park your cars, right?

I know what you are talking about with reference to the "angled cross pieces" (cross bracing) and that you don't have that, but I don't understand how your engineered joists run.

 

[MrMark]

is this what you have

http://www.lpcorp.com/images/inset_photos/lp-ijoists-frame-1.jpg

 

[Dolfan]

is this what you have

http://www.lpcorp.com/images/inset_photos/lp-ijoists-frame-1.jpg

Yeah that is what I found up in there. The space above is a bedroom so no luck there. The joists run the direction of the cars, I need to get sideways from those boxes.

I agree that I would prefer to put in boxes and hide all the electrical, but short of putting an access hole every 16-24" to get into the space and drill holes I don't know how to pull that off.

One possibility that might be happening is in that hole I went toward the j-box on my left and found the I-beam I couldn't get through. Maybe they put one of that type in that location to cary more load from up above and maybe the opposite direction to my right they had the other "open" I-beam type product? I just don't feel like tearing up the ceiling to just look around!

 

[MrMark]

yeah, you might have a structural beam in there. If there were just I Joists you could use a flexi bit if you knew that there was no plumbing in there to hit. I would be too scared to drill blind. I would forget it and either cut a wiring trench through the sheetrock in the ceiling or go with the EMT. The flex would look like hell and I doubt it's legal.

The tubing bender is sold at Home Depot and it's really no big deal.

 

[Dolfan]

I'm confident that there is no plumbing in this are as the bath for that bedroom is an easy 12-15 feet away and I know where it runs down to the 1st floor.

The "trenching" sure can't be part of any code I know of! Also at that point I think it would be almost easier to cut a drywall strip about 4" wide about 48" long to run the cable and put in a box, slap it back up and a wide taping knife will cover the entire section!

I need some cool type of florescent track lighting to solve this easily!!!!

 

[MrMark]

You just described a "wiring trench"!! That was what I suggested. I guess it is a poor name for the process.

 

[Dolfan]

You just described a "wiring trench"!! That was what I suggested. I guess it is a poor name for the process.

OK got it. Now I gotta figure out how much work I'm in it fo just to add some lights!

 

[Dolfan]

File this one under No good deed goes unpunished!

So after thinking it through I decide to go ahead and cut through he dry wall and place a few J-boxes between the bay to add the light where I'd like them, and to hide all the wiring and keep the ceiling clean.

So I cut a 4" x 40" trough in the drywall. I figured I'd have to drill a few 1/2" holes through the I-beams and then button the ceiling back up and mud. I find a main supporting beam made up of 1 I-beam and 3 1 1/2" Lam beams!!!!! Also it is some tight to the other beams that I can't get a normal drill in there and I don't have a right angle drill or extra long auger or drill bits!!!!

Sometime the world is trying to tell you something!

So I closed it up and tossed the mud on it and my plan now is to probably upgrade the fixtures to a 4 bulb type in the existing locations, then and only then if I need more I'll put a couple 2 bulb fixtures up but these will go in front or back of the existing where I can easily run the wire!

 

[MrMark]

Dolfan: you basically cannot do electrical work without a right angle drill and 6 inch 3/4 (for one to two romex) and 7/8 (for 2 to three romex) augers. You also need a six inch extension. These are absolutely indispensible for any wiring job of note. I wouldn't think of embarking on any electrical (or plumbing) project w/o a right angle drill.


That right angle drill will pay for itself the very first time you use it.

Note: if one romex then you can use 5/8 auger.

 

[MrMark]

I just looked this up for you regarding flex and romex and where you can run them exposed.

The code allows each to be run exposed but it also prohibits their use if subject to physical damage. What is subject to physical damage is an interpretive issue determined on a local level. My research just shows that the code does not really treat them differently on this issue. That makes sense to me as flex is certainly not very protective or robust. Their may be local overrides here on what is allowed. I have seen type MC cable run exposed where I live but the code does not treat that any differently from flex conduit or romex.

EMT is treated differently. It is allowed exposed so long as not subject to severe physical damage.

mrb or aceman could probably confirm.

 

[Dolfan]

Change of plans, I'm going to add new j-boxes but only within the same rafter space where I have them now. Is it exactly what I wanted, No! But my main concern is to get lighting from multiple positions to remove shadows and dark areas, and this should work for me.

Then again as you can see from the first picture, anything will be an improvement.

 

[Dolfan]

OK, got things done over the weekend and I'm pleased with the results. While I agree that the fixtures I chose are not top quality at $19 a pop I think I'll be fine as these lights aren't used a ton. If I have a ballast go out it will be just as easy to replace the unit at that cost.

Here is a picture of the garage with only lighting from outside about 7:30 pm

And here it is with the lights on.

I wanted to use multiple fixture from multiple positions to eliminate shadows so I added 3 boxes in line with the existing one's the builder put in and put up 6 2 bulb fixtures

I'm pleased with how the light fill the space

If I feel I need a little more on the back side of the garage I can add one more of these above each bay in line with the two others!

Glad this is done

 

[ghlkal]

Dolfan, thanks for posting ... I always learn a lot by reading GJ

Very nice C4 and C5 BTW

 

[Dolfan]

Very nice C4 and C5 BTW

Thanks, My wife jokes that we now need a dark blue C6 in the fist bay to complete the look.

Not sure that is in the cards though!

 

[fiveoh]

I agree nice cars! Get a C6 Zo6