Garage power

[Charliezemp]

Hello everyone, just signed up. I'll be seeing if it is feasible for me to run a 240 volt line out to my garage( about 125 ft. From my 200 amp main housebreaker). I'm sure this project has come up before so l'll just look around the threads to see if I can find the information I need before asking any of you to go over this again. Thanks, Charlie

 

[pattenp]

Oh you might as well just ask your questions. After reading some existing post you'll probably be totally confused. There is a lot of good info and some not so good.

 

[Wizzard]

One important part is knowing electrical code if doing it yourself. Good luck

 

[Falcon67]

240, 241 - whatever it takes.

 

[nadogail]

You can be assured that no matter what you do, somebody will tell you that you did not do it their way. "They" will not consider your personal situation. You might have soil that can not be dug up for an underground feed.

Your location is important. Electrical codes vary. Permit requirements vary.

Lets start with your location, then maybe someone local to you can join the discussion with truly relevant information.

Good Luck.

 

[Charliezemp]

Thanks for the suggestions, this is what I've found out about my situation: I'm using a total wire run distance of 130 feet. I'm using UF-NMCB-6/3-WG copper 1000 S/R wire. A Siemens PL1624B1100CU indoor Main Breaker Box in the garage. I have A Square D Load Center cat. No. QOC30MW225 main breaker box in my house. My garage shop is a single person use, no electric tools drawing more than 15 Amps (table saw, miter saw, Medium air compressor and wet vac). I should not be using more than two of these at any given time. I do have a golf cart battery charger that draws 17.5 Amp when on intermittently. I do not plan on using any 240 volt circuit but want to have the ability todo so. My question is, can I connect this # 6 feeder cable to my in house breaker box? If so, what size breaker do I need and will the # 6 wire fit it?
Thanks, Charlie

 

[pattenp]

#6 UF can be on a max of a 60A breaker. And #6 will fit in a 60A breaker. Does your panel have the space for a double pole 60A breaker?

 

[Charliezemp]

It has a double pole 30Amp breaker that is not being used, can a 60 Amp fit in that space.

 

[AllDodge]

It has a double pole 30Amp breaker that is not being used, can a 60 Amp fit in that space.

Yes, replace the double 30 with a double 60amp

 

[pattenp]

It has a double pole 30Amp breaker that is not being used, can a 60 Amp fit in that space.

Yes.

 

[Charliezemp]

Thanks, I guess the last question (s) I have are what to do with the Ground and neutral of my feeder cable on the house end and the garage shop on the other end? Rather than ask a bunch of questions about what I've read here and think I know, please continue to advise on my situation. This is the most helpful site, thanks y'all !

 

[pattenp]

Neutral and ground at the house are bonded (can land on same bar). The neutrals need to be isolated from the grounds at the sub-panel. The sub-panel in the garage will need a separate ground bar. Be sure to remove any bonding between the sub-panel box and the neutral bar.

View media item 16967

 

[Charliezemp]

Thanks (pattenp) that's a great diagram. I think I'll run everything and have someone inspect and hook it all up. It's a Great Day in SC!

 

[C96]

View media item 16967
pattenp… This is a very good diagram explaining a sub panel connection. It’s very easy to follow along. The OP should have no problem using this.

Just thought I might add this bit of info for others that are doing this very thing, but in an attached garage.

The only thing the diagram doesn’t mention (unless I’m missing something) is the fact that if the sub panel were to be installed in the same building structure (such as in an attached garage) then the ground rods @ the sub panel are not a requirement (just thought they would have mentioned that in the adjacent notes on the diagram).

I do realize though that the OP’s garage is detached, so the diagram is correct, but for others installing in an attached garage the rods are not needed.

 

[pattenp]

pattenp… This is a very good diagram explaining a sub panel connection. It’s very easy to follow along. The OP should have no problem using this.

Just thought I might add this bit of info for others that are doing this very thing, but in an attached garage.

The only thing the diagram doesn’t mention (unless I’m missing something) is the fact that if the sub panel were to be installed in the same building structure (such as in an attached garage) then the ground rods @ the sub panel are not a requirement (just thought they would have mentioned that in the adjacent notes on the diagram).

I do realize though that the OP’s garage is detached, so the diagram is correct, but for others installing in an attached garage the rods are not needed.

I agree. I had't thought about there was no note for not needing ground rod(s) when in same structure as the main panel. I only post that diagram for when the sub-panel is being installed in a detached structure.

 

[72Anthony]

At a distance of 125 feet you will need to consider voltage drop. This may require increasing the size of the cable or reducing the size of the breaker.

I think a 60 amp feed is the smallest most would recommend for a basic, one person shop with reasonably sized equipment. It would handle running a 3-5 HP table saw with 1-2 HP dust collector/vacuum, a few amps of lighting, and having a compressor startup and run.

 

[pattenp]

Voltage drop will be at the suggested limit of 3% with a full load of 60A at 130'.