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Help wiring compressor

CamaroBigBlock

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Apr 7, 2011
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3
Need help from people who are smarter than me.Purchesed this from a guy,wired it the way he told me to,still no go.220v Allen Bradley 709-BAT starter.Was told AC in goes to L1 and L2.Motor goes to T1 and L2.Pressure switch goes to C1 and C4.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Berserker

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An obvious check is L1 to L2 read 240. If you only have it wired to 120, but set up 240 it might not work. Maybe you missed a terminal at the panel, which would make both wires on the same leg.

I can't tell whats going on with the existing wires you got.

Jumper 2 and 3 to make sure your pressure switch works. Obviously if the tank is pressurized and you do this, it will over pressurize. The tank has been drained?
 

Berserker

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.Pressure switch goes to C1 and C4.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I don't think so. Pressure switch needs to be in series with the L1 and the start stop switch.

I think terminals 2 and 3 are pressure switch, with the jumper removed.

I am not positive.
 
Last edited:
OP
C

CamaroBigBlock

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Apr 7, 2011
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Thanks for the input.I am getting closer.Tested coil,works fine.The rotary on/off switch has only one wire attached.Need to add an additional wire.I believe 2-3.Sound right?
 

John in OH

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Question for you ....

Is the rotary switch a momentary "start" (like the switch show in the upper right-hand diagram) or a maintained "on" switch (like shown in the small "two wire) detail in the lower center?

I can't identify any of the C terminals in the photo so can’t confirm how it is presently wired. If the rotary switch is a maintained "on" switch, it should be wired between 1 and 2. Then I agree that the pressure switch should be wired between 2 and 3 (jumper removed). This assumes that everything else is wired according to the diagram in upper right.

If the rotary switch is a momentary “start” with a maintained “on”, then I’ll have to think about this some more.
 
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Berserker

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Ya the switch was confusing to me to.
If it was at my house I would ring it out with an ohm meter.

I didn't notice the diagram in the bottom for the switch.

You would like to think the only thing missing is the two hots and the pressure switch. I would work with that assumption, but prove this as you go.
 

Berserker

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Thanks for the input.I am getting closer.Tested coil,works fine.The rotary on/off switch has only one wire attached.Need to add an additional wire.I believe 2-3.Sound right?

I think one hot goes to the on/off. The pressure switch lands on 2 and 3.

So this would have you hooking up 4 wires plus ground. L1,L2, and 2 and 3.

I am not 100%.
 
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CamaroBigBlock

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The switch is a constant on/off rotary switch.
It is the switch in the upper left,I have "A" going to the bottom of the switch
and that is it.The bottom 2 terminals on the switch are connected with a small tab.The top 2 are basically one direction on,one direction off.
The switch is labeled "2" on the bottom and "2" on the top which is throwing
me for a loop.C1,2,3,4 are all coil connections.
Switch also might be bad.Checking continuity,only have continuity in OFF direction.If it is bad,is stuff like that still available?
 

Berserker

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Ya its just a switch, need to make sure you get the right kind though, obviously.

Check the 2s, they may be the same point.

You need to hook up 4 wires, plus ground.
 
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