How I'm I doing? pic.
- Thread starter 700jfm
- Start date
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
Ground rod is a little high.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Is it just the picture, or is the (top of the) cap sitting on top of the shingles.
If so, why
If so, whyAceman
Well-known member
I'll just rattle off a few things in case you missed them or maybe you just haven't got to them yet:
1. Roof jack goes under the shingles.
2. Around here we install the insulator knob on the mast for power co. to attach too.
3. You need to mark your neutrals white.
4. Don't forget to tighten that locknut on the offset ******.
5. Don't forget to run the green bond screw into the can.
6. PVC needs a plastic bushing.
7. If there is more than 3' between the top of the meter can and soffit, you need a strap.
8. The PVC also needs a strap within 3' of the can.
9. Some jurisdictions also require sch. 80 to be used where pvc is exiting the ground. Some also require expansion fittings too.
Maybe this will help you.
1. Roof jack goes under the shingles.
2. Around here we install the insulator knob on the mast for power co. to attach too.
3. You need to mark your neutrals white.
4. Don't forget to tighten that locknut on the offset ******.
5. Don't forget to run the green bond screw into the can.
6. PVC needs a plastic bushing.
7. If there is more than 3' between the top of the meter can and soffit, you need a strap.
8. The PVC also needs a strap within 3' of the can.
9. Some jurisdictions also require sch. 80 to be used where pvc is exiting the ground. Some also require expansion fittings too.
Maybe this will help you.
Is it just the picture, or is the (top of the) cap sitting on top of the shingles.
Your right it's sitting on top of the shingles. I may of sanped the pics. a little to soon, but I was happy just getting the boxes and cables installed. I had to show someone.
It's under the shingles now.I still can't find anyone around here that thinks I need the ground wire, but I ran it anyways. I had the #8 already so that's what I went with. The outher end still has the live meter. I have a samll Junction box that I will put where the old meter is. I plan to use something a supply store had to connect the ends. I don't remember what they called it but it was rubberized and had two ports the middle for the cable and allen head screws at the ends, after you thighen the ends it has caps to close it up. It's a bit pricey $20.00ea. but I think it's better then the rubber tape.
Aceman
Well-known member
Depends on if you have a lot of ground movement or not.
They're known as insulated taps. Burndy and Polaris are a couple brands.
Because everyone around there seems to be clueless about code compliant electrical work.
See response above.
Yes, #6 Cu.
First sentence is wrong, second sentence is right. You're looking at the wrong table, try Table 250.122. There are seperate tables for equipment grounding conductors and grounding electrode conductors.
I don't know when I ask they say are you in city limits?
I say no
Is the sub going to be a mobile home?
I say no
They say you don't need it Just put a ground rod at the new service.
I say, but I read it in a book to do it this way.
They say that it's been done this way for decade. just bond the new panel and unbond the old one
And I will be using #4 for all the new grounding rods.
sammerdog
Banned
...what's with only two beers on the ground? Don't ya know when running electrical service, you should have at least THREE people there (you and TWO buddies). That way when you get electricuted, one can grab your ankles and one can grab your arms and drag you out front to the ambulance...
Those are cans of pvc glue.Haven't had the outher kind of can in seventeen years two mouths and twentyone days.
I don't know when I ask they say are you in city limits?
I say no
Is the sub going to be a mobile home?
I say no
They say you don't need it Just put a ground rod at the new service.
I say, but I read it in a book to do it this way.
They say that it's been done this way for decade. just bond the new panel and unbond the old one
And I will be using #4 for all the new grounding rods.
you arent in city limits, so your work needs to meet the 2008 NEC.
it used to be, that if you were feeding a detached structure, you could didnt need the ground. This is not the case anymore. This doesnt even apply do you since your garage is attached to the house.
If I were you, I would quit seeking electrical advise from whoever you have been talking to. Its obvious they are stuck in 1982, and are not doing you any favors.
I am concerned about the ability of that #8 to clear a fault. How long is it?
sammerdog
Banned
Haven't had the outher kind of can in seventeen years two mouths and twentyone days.
You're a good guy! I'm going to try and catch you - I'm at thirteen months, fourteen days.
JeepsAreBuilt
Well-known member
RoyB
Member
how come you are putting a panel outside? I also cant believe that you guys can use pvc right into the panel like that! i would check to see if you need to ground the meter too. lot of different codes out in chicago depending on where you live, but some require the meter grounded as well....some villages like the ground rod through the meter and panel and all the way to the cold water pipe un-cut. also make sure you jump the water meter as well.
you guys have to ground the gas pipe too? thats new to me.
you guys have to ground the gas pipe too? thats new to me.
I was told that a feed though box that's 200 amp. cannot be inside. Their are alot of homes around here that have the breaker box outside with pvc.
I'm glad that it is because the 4/0AL. cable has to have the terminations outside. I learned that one the hard way.
Oh and if you look in the pic. you can see I have the meter and the box set up for a ground. or I might have the collar on the wrong side.
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I was told that a feed though box that's 200 amp. cannot be inside. Their are alot of homes around here that have the breaker box outside with pvc.
I'm glad that it is because the 4/0AL. cable has to have the terminations outside. I learned that one the hard way.
Oh and if you look in the pic. you can see I have the meter and the box set up for a ground. or I might have the collar on the wrong side.
The ground rod is going to land on the grounding bushing??
RoyB
Member
I was told that a feed though box that's 200 amp. cannot be inside. Their are alot of homes around here that have the breaker box outside with pvc.
I'm glad that it is because the 4/0AL. cable has to have the terminations outside. I learned that one the hard way.
Oh and if you look in the pic. you can see I have the meter and the box set up for a ground. or I might have the collar on the wrong side.
I don't understand the point of the feed-thru box I guess. Where does it go from there, right to another panel inside the house? I see the ground bushing on the panel side....like I said, it depends on your village and what they require. I've even seen some require ground bushings on both sides of the feed.
RoyB
Member
so why can't you just go from the meter to the panel inside the house? is it too far? or is that like a detached garage?
Fiberglass Fred
Well-known member
try doing it this way. It'll save you a fortune on your electric bill. 
RoyB
Member
Aceman
Well-known member
I think I would of done that a little differently myself but your way will work just fine.
I would of left your 2" pvc stubbed up near the bottom of the meterbase with the expansion fitting on it. Let the power co. cut power, remove the mast and wiring, and plug the hole in the top of the meterbase. Stub your conduit into the bottom of it and reland your wires on the top of the meterbase and installed a meter jumper kit. Done. It would of saved you the cost of a j-box and those spendy insulated taps it looks like you're using.
I would of left your 2" pvc stubbed up near the bottom of the meterbase with the expansion fitting on it. Let the power co. cut power, remove the mast and wiring, and plug the hole in the top of the meterbase. Stub your conduit into the bottom of it and reland your wires on the top of the meterbase and installed a meter jumper kit. Done. It would of saved you the cost of a j-box and those spendy insulated taps it looks like you're using.
Thanks Aceman That would of been a better way But for some reason I though I would needed the old one some day.
My neighbor has a transformer at the far conner of my place, and I was thinking of putting new barn with it's own power some day.
But for some reason I though I would needed the old one some day. My neighbor has a transformer at the far conner of my place, and I was thinking of putting new barn with it's own power some day.
I asked about the ground and he acknowledged that a ground wire is the new code in the city, but though it's a waste of wire
And where I'm at not required. He knew of some inspectors before it was the "code" rejecting anyone who had one. So small wire or big wire, with wire or no wire, I'm going to live with it, or die with it.
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