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How many rivets should i put in?

Nealcrenshaw

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I need to repair some rusted out sheet metal on the floor of my cargo van, i'll be using some 18ga sheet but i'm not sure how many rivets i should use to make it strong, i'm using 3/16" rivets. Is there a rule of thumb i should use to determine how many rivets to put in?
 
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russlaferrera

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Neal, that's a loaded question. My recommendations is every 2 in.. A lot depends on the size of the patch, the location and the configuration of the patch.
 
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Nealcrenshaw

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every 2in doesn't sound too bad, these patches are going near the wheel wells by the back doors and i'll then seal the seams with a good sealer.
 

kams1973

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the rivet should be 2.5 times the diameter of the rivet from the edge of the metal, and the distance between rivets should be 3-10 the diameter of the rivet....on aircraft sheet metal. Perhaps this will give you something to go off of.
 

lilredex

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If I don't weld them in, I go around the patch piece with one of those cheap pneumatic punches and punch a hole every inch. Then dry fit it with a couple of screws just to be sure it is ok, then run a bead of good caulking around the perimeter and screw it down using those initial locating holes. I prefer screws over rivets as they stay put and do not leak. The screws, used, are those short, black, self drillers that are used on metal studs. If the screws are looking ugly underneath your work, cut them off with a wheel. The only problem I have with those screws, is that they do not come with a Robertson head.
 

e-tek

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I`d NEVER recommend anything but welding a patch in.....but if you must.... I`d favour lilredex`s method: pre-sealer it, use self-tappers every 1.5 inches, then smear sealer over top of edges.
 
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Nealcrenshaw

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I thought about welding it in, i guess it would adhere better than rivets i dont have a welder but i guess this would be a reason to get one. I'm thinking maybe an O/A setup
that will allow me cut out alot of bad spots instead of using the cut off saw.
 
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yhprum

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Jul 27, 2006
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Brisbane Australia
I would clean and paint all surfaces before riveting with a good corrosion preventive paint. Then I would user a sealer or adhesive betweent the parts before riveting or screwing that could squeeze out. There are structural adhesives available that are nearly as strong as a welded joint.
Steve
 

srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
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I repaired a bad rust patch in the floor of my plow truck with some self tap screws and a few cans of undercoating. I just cut the patch big so it would over lay some curves. I bent the patch to follow. Those curves helped strengthen it and its actually more solid/rigid then the passenger side floor board is. If its just a beater then I wouldn't stress about it too much
 
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Nealcrenshaw

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yeah, but plywood and floor mats doesnt stop the water from coming in. Ive actually been thinking about cutting out the entire floor and putting in all new sheet metal.
 

eborcim

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Central, MO
I'd recommend large head rivets on 2" spacing AND an air riveter. Your hand will thank you later.
 

Herb

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CT
If it isn't really a structural panel, I vote for for the derust and prime, then use a structural adhesive- all new cars are being built with adhesives in many areas- and then a few pop rivets to locate and secure the panel while the adhesive dries. It will be strong and leak free and a lot less work.
 
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