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How to Paint Stripes

Stephenw

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Step 1.

Tape off your desired stripe.
 

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Stephenw

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Step 2.

Paint the edge of each piece of tape. Note in the picture, my upper color is tan, while my lower color is blue. I painted the edge of the upper tape tan, and the edge of the lower tape blue. These colors will be painted over by the stripe color. They are to prevent the stripe color from bleeding under the tape.
 

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Stephenw

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Step 3.

After the paint on the stripe seams has dried, paint over everything with your stripe color.
 

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Stephenw

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Step 4.

After the stripe has dried, remove the tape by pulling it off at an angle toward the stripe.

Step back and admire your perfect stripe with a clean edge.
 

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6768rogues

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There is a special masking tape made for striping, and it does not allow paint creep underneath.
Your method probably works just as well at a lower cost. Cool.
 

Vicegrip

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Good trick. Thanks for the tip.

Using the no bleed tape and puling it while wet make a very sharp no bump line too. Using regular tape and running flat of a fingernail on the very edge works OK for latex paints. go easy on the paint right at the tape and pull before dry to produce ridges and prevent pull ups.
 

Vinko

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Using the no bleed tape and puling it while wet make a very sharp no bump line too.
I always had more luck having the paint *slightly* dry -- but still, I guess, somewhat wet.


How do y'all make sure the line is perfectly parallel to the ground? That takes a steady hand and I, I reckon.
 
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Stephenw

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How do y'all make sure the line is perfectly parallel to the ground? That takes a steady hand and I, I reckon.

I wasn't concerned with parallel to the floor, only that it was level. I drew a pencil line with a 48" level. Then taped to the pencil line.
 

John Timmins

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I put the blue tape up. Then I paint the top edge of the tape with water base clear polyeurathane. Sometimes I put a 2nd coat of poly on the upper edge. These seal the top edge of the tape so paint can't run down behind it.

I have had good luck painting multiple colors on a wall that has been heavily spray tectured and is bumpy. Nothing looks crummier than stripes with all that bleed behind the tape look.

Painting a stripe on the ceiling came out OK without using the poly to seal it. I used a nail file end to push the tape tight. However on horizontal wall stripes, puching the tape tight didn't work too good for me.
 

moogoob

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I'm thinking the easiest way for a clean line with minimal work is to edge the stripe with vinyl tape pin stripes as mentioned in another thread here.
 

kwright

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Jan 11, 2006
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West Michigan
I just completed doing this last spring. I used blue painter tape to mask and sealed the edge with an inexpensive latex caulk. I wiped the edge with a damp sponge. It worked great, went together quickly (the masking was the most time consuming), removal was a breeze w/absolutely no bleed through.
 

dipper

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Rochester, NY
hmmm... a couple of great tips on the stripes. This will come in handy for me in the next month or so when I get the walls finished and ready for paint.
 

fotoflojoe

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When painting anything where masking was required, I've always needed to pull the tape before the paint dries. Even if it just skins, I get terrible tearing of the new paint.

For those of you that seal tape edges, how do you pull the tape after new paint is dry so that its edges don't tear?
 
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kwright

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When painting anything where masking was required, I've always needed to pull the tape before the paint dries. Even if it just skins, I get terrible tearing of the new paint.

For those of you that seal tape edges, how do you pull the tape after new paint is dry so that its edges don't tear?

I removed the tape as soon as the paint is dry, certainly within 24 hours or so.

I pull the tape backwards at an angle of at least 135 degrees to the direction removal, perhaps even more severely. I almost pull the tape back over itself, not quite 180 degrees, but close. I do NOT pull it at a 90 degree angle to the wall, that will almost always lift paint, in my experience.
 

NewShockerGuy

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I removed the tape as soon as the paint is dry, certainly within 24 hours or so.

I pull the tape backwards at an angle of at least 135 degrees to the direction removal, perhaps even more severely. I almost pull the tape back over itself, not quite 180 degrees, but close. I do NOT pull it at a 90 degree angle to the wall, that will almost always lift paint, in my experience.

I am trying to invision this...

but it's not happening..lol

Pulling back towards the wall or towards the ground?

Hope that makes sense?

-Nige
 

ZRX61

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I am trying to invision this...

but it's not happening..lol

Pulling back towards the wall or towards the ground?

Hope that makes sense?

-Nige

He means parallel to the stripe & 135deg would be 45deg to the wall surface. If it was 180deg the tape you pull would be touching the tape still on the wall.
 

Jayincali

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I am trying to invision this...

but it's not happening..lol

Pulling back towards the wall or towards the ground?

Hope that makes sense?

-Nige

Pull the tape back over itself. Like touching non sticky side to non sticky side. I used the same exact approach, only I pulled the tape after I finished painting, so the paint was still damp.
 

istephen

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Denver Area
To keep the line level all the way around the garage, my Dad and I whipped out Great Grandpa's 1924 Starrett transit and I called the up/down while pops marked the location with a pencil at intervals on the walls (corners mostly). I was amazed at how precise we could get repeatable marks on the wall. I could focus on the TIP of the pencil when looking through the transit!

We measured down from the transit marks to where I wanted the stripe and put the real marks.

Then we used a laser level stuck to the wall to pick up the transit marks and drew a pencil a line on the wall. I followed the pencil line with the painter's tape.

This worked WAY better than trying to use a level and a tape with nothing to measure against. I was also glad to put Grandpa's transit to good use. The fast way? Probably not; but the results were excellent!
 

haugy

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Dude, where were you with this post 4 months ago!?!?!?! ugggghhh that would have saved me some OCD frustration.

P1060014.jpg


P1060016.jpg


P1060023.jpg


IMG_20110504_201313.jpg
 
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Stephenw

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Utah
Dude, where were you with this post 4 months ago!?!?!?! ugggghhh that would have saved me some OCD frustration.

I posted this 8/03/08. It's also on my blog. I've also linked it several times in various discussions. :thumbup:
 

P1et

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Jun 16, 2011
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If I would have only knowns about Step 2 before I did my stripes. Got quite a bit of bleeding. Terrible.
 

mishenka

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Aug 10, 2011
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Thank you all for good advice and information found in this thread. Finally finished painting my garage. It was totally naked - just an unpainted drywall. Covered it with primer all around, layer of flat white on a ceiling, two coats of semi-glass white on the walls, and finally 3ft. blue bottom with a stripe. Frog tape worked really well. I did seal the tape with white paint anyway before applying the blue. There are some imperfections - but it is more than ok for the garage:)

The next step is the most difficult - to clean up the mess on the floor:)
 

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P1et

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Looks very nice! I made the mistake of using a cheaper Home Depot primer, and when I added my stripes and pulled away the tape, in about three spots the paint came with it.

Very frustrating.
 

mishenka

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Looks very nice! I made the mistake of using a cheaper Home Depot primer, and when I added my stripes and pulled away the tape, in about three spots the paint came with it.

Very frustrating.

I also bought all the supplies in HomeDepot. Not sure if it is considered cheap or not: Behr Primer for Drywalls and Behr ultra white paint: 5 gallon each. Actually I even had to buy extra primer- 1 extra gallon. Behr Ceiling paint. Here are the pictures with problem areas- not a lot, but still I too had some paint getting under the masking tape. No paint came off with the paint though - but I put a solid two layers of paint and waited a few days until it drys.
 

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