How to reinstall rubber mounted auto glass?

[Codyboy]

Well not an auto, but on my tractor.

The lower fixed rear window has come loose and pushed in a little bit.

It is the type that has a rubber mount to hold it in like older pickups used to be.
Just noticed it earlier and don't know what happened. Possible I backed into a limb I didnt see while bush hogging.

How do I reset it? Long ago i seem to remember there was a cord or rope involved. But idk. Never had to replace one.

ETA. Forgot the pic.

 

[gizardlizard]

They are a HUGE pain the *** to install. You need to pull the smaller locking section out first. Look for the joint in it. After removing that, you need to use a dull awl and/or small screwdriver to work the large section back into place. Lube helps. Take small bites and keep going. Once it’s in position, lube the small locking section and press back into position. I have two special tools at work for these and they still ****. Go slow and be patient.

 

[Codyboy]

They are a HUGE pain the *** to install. You need to pull the smaller locking section out first. Look for the joint in it. After removing that, you need to use a dull awl and/or small screwdriver to work the large section back into place. Lube helps. Take small bites and keep going. Once it’s in position, lube the small locking section and press back into position. I have two special tools at work for these and they still ****. Go slow and be patient.

So two pieces?
Not seeing that but I'll look again.
It's still mostly in except the bottom, mostly on the left side corner.

 

[Codyboy]

I watched a couple of videos.

Pretty sure this glass is just rubber that hooks over the lip of the body and doesn't have the locking inset.
One video shows a Chevy square body that has the locking piece.
I think mi.e is more like the 80s 90s Ford rear windows.

The guy used a rope/cord to pull the rubber lip over the pinch weld in the cab.

 

[Jgaz]

If the rubber doesn’t have a lock strip and is only one piece, you are going to use a cord.

Look for a diameter cord that fits nicely in the groove of the rubber seal.
On the old pickups I used a nylon cord that was slicker than a cotton cord.
I also used to rub it from time to time with some sealing wax.

Wrap the cord all around the window rubber seal. Overlap the cord at the bottom center.

Set the bottom of the rubber seal on cab pinch weld.

Hold pressure against the glass on one of the inside corners that isn’t seated on the pinch weld. A second person is helpful here.

You will figure how this works pretty quick. While learning, you might have to start over a time or two.

In the dealership I used glass cleaner as a lube because the Body Shop guys would loose their **** if I used silicone.

Get a couple of plastic or wooden trim sticks to help with the rubber.

Its easier if the rubber is warmer.

When I worked at the Chevy dealership I used to get .5 of an hour to remove a non sliding window and install a slider. That should tell you that the job isn‘t too tough.

On Chevy trucks the cheaper trucks used a one piece seal. The higher trim packages got a lock strip that was kinda chrome colored.

One piece seal and seal with a lock strip are two different animals. Different methods.
The lock strips aren't bad with the right tool. I think I have, or had, two different sizes.

 

[Codyboy]

If the rubber doesn’t have a lock strip and is only one piece, you are going to use a cord.

Look for a diameter cord that fits nicely in the groove of the rubber seal.
On the old pickups I used a nylon cord that was slicker than a cotton cord.
I also used to rub it from time to time with some sealing wax.

Wrap the cord all around the window rubber seal. Overlap the cord at the bottom center.

Set the bottom of the rubber seal on cab pinch weld.

Hold pressure against the glass on one of the inside corners that isn’t seated on the pinch weld. A second person is helpful here.

You will figure how this works pretty quick. While learning, you might have to start over a time or two.

In the dealership I used glass cleaner as a lube because the Body Shop guys would loose their **** if I used silicone.

Get a couple of plastic or wooden trim sticks to help with the rubber.

Its easier if the rubber is warmer.

When I worked at the Chevy dealership I used to get .5 of an hour to remove a non sliding window and install a slider. That should tell you that the job isn‘t too tough.

Yes , description is just like the video I watched.
But if its only out in one corner can I get it back in without taking it all the way out?
As far as cord, I have some 550 cord, would that work?

 

[Jgaz]

You might be able to work the rubber in with a trim stick. Might be easier in the long run to start over.
550 is a bit thicker than I used but it might work. If it seems too thick pull out the inner strands.
Kinda like making dummy cord. 550 would certainly be strong enough.

 

[bornbadbob]

Try a plastic trim tool, they make them specifically for windows, use soap and water in a spray bottle needed as lube, just like your wife, no such thing as too much lube. If not much of the glass is out of the fibber it should go back in fairly easily. It is possible the glass has dropped a little, make sure it is properly positioned in the upper rubber.

 

[Cheesy1]

25 years ago I was in college with a busted back window in an 88 Toyota pickup. $50 at a salvage yard and some cord (550-ish) and some dish soap. Put rubber on the glass. Wrapped cord all the way around on outer groove of the rubber. Had it lubed up with dish soap. Pushed window and rubber against truck sheet metal where it belonged. Slowly pulled cord out.

Took longer to type all of that than it did to install the window.

 

[MushCreek]

Flat windows are easy, as described by the other guys. You'll probably have to take it out and start over. I did a 1970 F-100 by myself, and the curved windshield was a bear. The flat rear window was easy.

 

[Codyboy]

Ok thanks guys.
I'll let yall know how it goes.
Sounds easy enough and not as intimidating as before.
Hopefully the rear flip out window will open enough to get to the lower window which is basically at floorboard level behind the seat.

 

[gizardlizard]

This is the tool kit I spoke of earlier for putting these seals in.

 

[bamawildcat]

We've already got some subject matter experts that have answered, and I defer to their advice. Having lived this, recommend starting with two people on the outside. One person puts light pressure on the glass and makes sure you aren't pulling the gasket out more as you concentrate on getting the lip good to go on the outside with plenty of lube and the trim stick. Then, you switch to doing the same on the inside, while the other person stays outside applying pressure on the glass/seal as you work so it doesn't pop out.

 

[c39er]

Hope the rubber is soft and pliable...will make it easy.
You can crack long narrow flat glass...be gentle working the rubber and glass.

 

[Cheesy1]

a couple of those vacuum cups from hobo freight are cheap and give a handle to grab

 

[no704]

Use something like this or modify an old screwdriver. Lube up with silicon spray (assuming you’re not painting it soon) should be able to work the lip back around the pinch weld.

 

[Codyboy]

Hope the rubber is soft and pliable...will make it easy.
You can crack long narrow flat glass...be gentle working the rubber and glass.

a couple of those vacuum cups from hobo freight are cheap and give a handle to grab

Use something like this or modify an old screwdriver. Lube up with silicon spray (assuming you’re not painting it soon) should be able to work the lip back around the pinch weld.

Rubber should be plenty soft. It's 90° and tractor is only 4 years old.

Probably won't need suction cups. Glass is maybe 8x24 inches.

Yes. Being small and in a tight spot I'm worried about cracking it.

Looked at it again this morning and think I will have to remove completely and then reinstall.
The edge of the rubber has folded over and the glass on the bottom left corner is in the cab by 3/4".
Trying to get a good look at the rubber and how its mounted.
The plastic trim panel on the inside of the cab is up against the seal. Hope I don't gave to pull the trim to get it back in.
There is also some windlace around the trim inside.
Pretty sure the glass was set first , then the trim panels.
Ug

 

[no704]

Hopefully you don’t have to pull the panels. Push the window the rest of the way out. Get some cotton rope, not nylon. About 1/4-inch. Feed /press it into the groove overlap by a few inches at the center bottom. Have a helper push on the glass from the outside. Lube up the rubber 50/50 dish soap/water works well. Pull the rope in about 30deg to the glass. You still want a hook tool on hand if you start to loose the bead. Outside helper needs to keep inward and downward pressure on the glass. A few smacks as you fo helps to get the gasket to seat.

It’s actually pretty easy to do, much easier to show than text. The hook tool is especially useful when you get to the top corners. That is where you are most likely to loose the bead. Push down!

Good luck! Tempered glass is extremely strong. Just clean the gasket well. As you said you may have hit something also make sure the pinchweld is straight.

I’ve done hundreds of these, jeep windshids and pu backlites. Mostly. If it starts getting sideways too much don’t be afraid to abort and start fresh.
If you hit a tough spot pulling the rope it helps to kinda swing it in like a cone shape.

 

[firebirdparts]

I did one recently, the only one I ever did, with the rope insertion tool and it was actually easy. Like falling off a log. Having a rubber part that fits well and is soft is going to be important based on the one I did. With 40 year old rubber it wouldn't be as easy.