How's my slab drawing look?

[Tracs]

About to submit plans to get a permit for a 40x60x12 stick framed garage.

I got a draft of the thickened edge slab. Looks fine and like every other thickened edge slab I've seen.

I plan on heating with in floor heat.

One thing I notice is that the styrofoam insulation under the concrete is only in the center of the slab and not under any part of the thickened edge.

I've read in the past that the heat will travel down into the ground through the thickened edge.

Thoughts?

 

[The Cobbler]

in my area to do a mono pour thickened slab that size you need an engineered drawing & stamp
the base of the thickened edge is supposed to sit on virgin soil ,no stone or fill . if I recall the slant up to the pad can be insulated and the perimeter of the pour obviously can be

 

[Tracs]

in my area to do a mono pour thickened slab that size you need an engineered drawing & stamp
the base of the thickened edge is supposed to sit on virgin soil ,no stone or fill . if I recall the slant up to the pad can be insulated and the perimeter of the pour obviously can be

I believe that drawing is going to the engineer to be done up proper and stamped.

 

[jack stand]

The theory is that the foam extending outside around the perimeter is the hot/cold "barrier". I would definitely extend 4' (out) by at least 8' (along the wall) at the corners.
4' everywhere would be good insurance both for keeping the cold from creeping under  and the soil dry being beyond the drip line of the roof for additional frost heaving "what if" concerns.

 

[PopcornSutton]

That slab edge detail looks typical for most every slab on grade for occupied space. It looks nice drawn on paper, making it in the field isn't that easy, but doable. Getting the slope proper, the stone and foam in place, takes time.

A couple questions/comments. You say you're putting in radiant heat, that's awesome. What are you using, PEX? Above or below the rebar? What are you using for chairs to hold the rebar in the center of the slab? Remember, there will be a half dozen guys walking, tripping on the rebar and piping during the pour, so go overboard securing all of it. I suggest transitioning to steel pipe for the penetration above slab, and have all of it pumped up with air while pouring, and watch the gauge closely. You won't be able to fix a leak later.

Good luck, I'm envious!

 

[dcg9381]

Drawing is good... Specify concrete PSI.
Maybe I missed it, but are you doing a "notch" for the doors? You want those doors to come down below the grade of the slab.

What about showing electrical stubs? (here we bring them in through the slab)

I would want at least one run of PVC between the sides of the building. 2".

I assume this is going to be a stick building?

 

[pcmeiners]

5" of compacted gravel base, and 5" of concrete mean little if your soil is not compacted properly.

 

[dcg9381]

5" of compacted gravel base, and 5" of concrete mean little if your soil is not compacted properly.

Truth. Which is why there are soils tests... Had to put in 12 10' piers in our garage, as the fill under it was not suitable for typical slab design here.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Had to put in 12 10' piers in our garage, as the fill under it was not suitable for typical slab design here."

Nice, I like the pier method. New home built next door used piers, floor is stable after 15 years.