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Husky Air Compressor

ponjohn

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I have a husky air compressor, 6.5hp, it is 20 years old with hobby usage. Meaning, not running 8-10 hours day 6 days / week.

The tube off of the compressor head is so hot you cannot touch it and it won't build more than 40 lbs of pressure.
It will not shutoff, I replaced the contactor and pressure regulator, same issue.

Is it at the end of it's lift?
 
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The Cobbler

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you have a leak somewhere , or a broken reed valve.
start with some soapy water while it's running on connections, head area etc
also, does the tank hold pressure or does it leak down quickly from the 40 PSI ?
 
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ponjohn

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Yes the tank holds air. Where is the reed valve in the compressor head?
 
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ponjohn

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I should note: a hose broke 2 months ago and the compressor fell over. It had worked after that but not now.
 

The Cobbler

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the reed valves are in the head of the compressor and they seal off the intake & exhaust so to speak . probably a flapper made of stainless steel . I would check for leaks everywhere around the compressor head first , before you tear into it . check the head gaskets, all the joints, the unloader valve... everything
 

N_Jay

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I always like when the story evolves.
How can you expect a good answer when you hold back the critical information.

If it is running and not building pressure, the switch and contactor are the exact wrong place to look.

Look very carefully at what got hit when it fell.
 
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ponjohn

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I always like when the story evolves.
How can you expect a good answer when you hold back the critical information.

If it is running and not building pressure, the switch and contactor are the exact wrong place to look.

Look very carefully at what got hit when it fell.
I love condescending replies. You sir get a gold star tonight
 

Citation

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My guess is the reed valves in the head. Only building to 40 psi would require a pretty big leak from the tank (drain valve stuck open) and in that case the leak would be obvious the moment you turn the motor off. It is possible the unloader valve or line is stuck open/has a leak. That line typically goes from the check valve where the air enters the tank to the pressure switch. The lines/head should be getting hot so that's not something to worry about by itself.
 
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ponjohn

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My guess is the reed valves in the head. Only building to 40 psi would require a pretty big leak from the tank (drain valve stuck open) and in that case the leak would be obvious the moment you turn the motor off. It is possible the unloader valve or line is stuck open/has a leak. That line typically goes from the check valve where the air enters the tank to the pressure switch. The lines/head should be getting hot so that's not something to worry about by itself.

Thank you. There are not any obvious leaks. Should I pop the head off?
 

Citation

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Thank you. There are not any obvious leaks. Should I pop the head off?
That would be my next step. It may require replacing the heat gasket.

Btw, if this is a 2 cylinder pump then a gasket failure is also possible. Look for evidence of a break in the sealing perimeter.
 
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The Cobbler

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original poster has not been on line for almost a year .
@toplessHO , what basics did you do before tearing it apart? assume you checked for leaks everywhere? what do the reed valves look like? any signs of a blown head gasket? scores in the cylinders?
is it oiled or oiless ?
 

toplessHO

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well its oiless
one of those models that sound like a...weedwacker
wouldnt be my first choice as mine at shop is a real 6.5 HP
2 stage 80 gal.
I ve pulled head off and it appears to be good but I will inspect valves further.
 

toplessHO

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no rings on this one

I laid the valve plate/head flat and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol in the 3 intake ports
2 leaked right away but all 3 appear unbent.
does anyone make a rebuild kit? i.e. piston seal,o rings,headgasket,valve plate.
I realize this is a throwaway but its got some sentimental value. Model is Y6020-WK
 

nadogail

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Low cost compressors are generally built to a price, rather than to a quality.

The least expensive models should, IMHO, be regarded as "Disposable", because the value of the time lost searching and waiting for replacement parts is greater than the replacement cost of another inexpensive compressor.

I located and ordered repair parts for the Devilbiss Compressor I owned and installed them, the repaired compressor worked long enough to convince me that a new quieter compressor was what I really wanted.

In the words of my Cabinet Maker buddy when I asked him about which low priced compressor to buy; he said "They are all ****, just buy the cheapest one that will work for you".
 

toplessHO

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ordered parts
new cylinder liner and sealing rings
valve plate and Orings
headgasket
If this doesnt work Ive wasted $38 but thats the gamble
 

vavet

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I had a husky oiled type compressor at my last job with similar symptoms. I was expecting a reed valve problem but upon teardown I found a damaged gasket. I forget if it was the gasket between the valve assembly and cylinder or the valve assembly and the cylinder head, but it was one of those and iirc, this is the kit I ordered.

it includes all the gaskets, so I replaced them all since they were disturbed. It was a pretty straightforward repair and saved several hundred dollars. i have a thread on this diagnosis and repair here
no pics in the thread unfortunately.
overall it was a satisfying repair to do it and save my department the cost of a new compressor, save the compressor from the scrap pile, and have something work well again after being non functional. I dont know if it’s critical, but i used a torque wrench on the head bolts during reassembly and retorqued them after some number of hours of operation.
 

toplessHO

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piston seal and cylinder sleeve came in way too big(old one is only 1-7/8").
Why cant sellers put the measurements out there to save returns?
rest of the stuff arrives today so will run with a suspect piston and seal,
new valve plate and gaskets to see if its any better.
If so I ll invest in the piston and seal assembly and new liner
 
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