I have a slight electrical conundrum - looking for suggestions...

[TheGunCollector]

I began finishing my lower garage about a year ago, and decided (wrongfully) to finish the walls, which are poured concrete, with 2" XPS foam boards, followed by 2x4's installed flat. This has proved to be the worst decision, but I'm slowly finishing the walls.

Here is a pic to give you an idea:

Now, I arrive at the installation of electrical. Obviously, I want to be within code, so I have a few options here. I'm also aiming to add an additional 1.5" of foam board between the studs for additional insulation, so this complicates things.

1. Route/notch studs and run plates. My only problem is I'm having a hard time finding 3.5" plates, plus the outside/inside corners would be difficult to say the least.

2. An electrician that I use for some of my rentals said I could bore a hole through the foam behind the studs. The problem with this is securing the wire between the studs. I was thinking using the router and making a groove in the foam board, and running duct tape over it to hold it back so the foam board lays flat.

3. Run all metal conduit down/alongside the studs. Other than using more wire ( I'd go up the wall, across the ceiling, and down the next to the next box ), this might be the safest option?

I know I screwed up doing the walls like this. I should have built a traditional 2x stud wall.

 

[Highlux]

Is the foam sitting right on the concrete wall? Isn't that going to trap moisture?

You def screwed yourself. To be honest...I'd tear the wall down and start over. Its not up to code. I don't like what you plan on doing with the wiring.
Doesn't seem to be any way to run the wire and secure it and do loops at every outlet etc.

 

[Rookie2]

surface mount conduit and boxes.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

You probably have too much invested at this point to tear it out. I would have done normal framed walls with bagged insulation. Turning those studs sideways and adding the foam really made things challenging. I think the best and easiest solution is like the previous member said..surface mount everything. You can make it look real nice, it will be super easy, and it will look good in a garage.

 

[tshetter]

Yea, do surface mount conduit. Gets the bends right and it will look awesome, nice and industrial.

Or you could set new studs perpendicular to the ones already there, making a T shape as viewed from above. Bore the holes for your Romex and go at it. Measure, cut, bore, set & nail.

You would need to rent a nail gun that can shoot 4-1/2" nails for that though.

Or cut some Dados in studs and place them as you already have...that would be a **** solution though, and I dont like it.

Conduit is cheaper, allows for future expansion easily, and looks good. Do that.

 

[tdkkart]

Conduit........

Planned right you can eliminate alot of bending and the rest is gravy.

 

[TheGunCollector]

Is the foam sitting right on the concrete wall? Isn't that going to trap moisture? I live in a desert climate. There wasn't a drop of moisture under a taped/covered section after 6 months.

You def screwed yourself. To be honest...I'd tear the wall down and start over. Its not up to code. I don't like what you plan on doing with the wiring.
Doesn't seem to be any way to run the wire and secure it and do loops at every outlet etc.How do people do it in basements finishing walls the same?

Questions/comments in red.

 

[Fast Orange]

Surface mount EMT or Wiremold-

 

[TheGunCollector]

I appreciate the feedback guys!

Just a question:

Why cant I run it all in conduit down the studs on the inside of the wall?

I'd really like to keep the walls clean.

 

[C96]

1.Route/notch studs and run plates. My only problem is I'm having a hard time finding 3.5" plates, plus the outside/inside corners would be difficult to say the least.

You did not screw up at all.

Just do like you have mentioned in 1. providing you are running Romex.

Laying 2x4 flat for firing strips is done all the time. Just notch 2x4 with skilsaw or sawzall and just use the normal electrical nail plates to cover the wiring. You will have to use 3 nail plates per stud but their cheep, or use the bigger ones the plumbers use. Trust me, it’s done like this all the time. It’s just a little more time doing the corners. Use 1½” deep outlet boxes and the appropriate rings for the drywall you’re using.

Good Luck

 

[tshetter]

I appreciate the feedback guys!

Just a question:

Why cant I run it all in conduit down the studs on the inside of the wall?

I'd really like to keep the walls clean.

You can do that, but I think you will not have enough space for the conduit, let alone the boxes to be mounted flush with your drywall.

 

[mrjaw14]

I'll offer this advice, don't allow 14awg in your garage...use 12awg or larger. are you planning on finishing the inside with drywall or are you leaving it with the 2x4's on side? If you're going to drywall it, I'd almost wait on the electrical and surface mount it in conduit. Otherwise you'll have strange looking boxes sticking out if you do it with romex and regular plastic boxes nailed to the side of the studs.

If you're not going to finish it out with drywall, then I'd gauge the cost of individual conductors and conduit vs romex. I have a feeling that your garage is technically considered a "wet" location for the purposes of code. So the safer bet is going to be thwn rated individual conductors in metal conduit. Most of the "thhn" you see at lowes and home depot is actually rated for thwn also, you just have to go look at it because the description won't say it. When doing any work at my house I always try to observe code requirements and think as if I was going to sell the house.

If you don't want to bend conduit, you can buy connectors that'll take care of any bends you'll likely need and just cut straight pieces.