Identify Older Delta Drill Press

[sethmac]

Anything anyone call tell me about this drill press I just pickedup. I'd like to learn how to restore/clean it up.

The model says: 15-017 on the side while the motor says model 62-110 (1/3 HP).

Serial is: 1496519

Picked it up in package deal with about 8 vises (large to small) and a router for $130 total. Good buy? Good machine? Where should I start if I want to bring this thing back into order. Seems to run fine. Need to lubricate it to have it return after lowering the chuck.

Haven't been able to find any specs or pictures of one like it.

 

[catalytic]

Vintagemachinery.org members have posted several of that model (try control-f for 017):

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=698&tab=4

Try posting on the sister site, owwm.org. The die-hard rockwell-delta guys there will be able to use the serial number to date it and give you some more info. I would be surprised if someone can't point you towards a manual or other info.

Re: good buy, you obviously did great. The table on the press appears to be pristine. I expect it may need new bearings, which is not a big deal. If you do take it apart, be very careful that you don't mash the somewhat delicate pulleys on it -- I have seen too many of these with cracks and chunks missing from puller jaws.

If you listen carefully (stethoscope if you have one) and don't hear any bearing noise, then I personally would just use the thing and not worry about it. You can grease the spindle if that's what the no-return problem is (there is probably a way to adjust the quill return spring, but it's been years since I've worked on a delta-rockwell, so it's a question for the owwm.org guys).

Oh -- but do check the ground wire! For some reason, every used machine I buy has this missing. The last machine I bought, it went all the way from the plug into the switch box, where someone had clipped it off and not attached it to the ground screw next to it.

 

[sethmac]

Trying to get registered now on owwm to get some more information.

 

[sethmac]

Its hard to tell, but there are 3 pulleys and two belts (one obscured by Rockwell orange/gray covering). Is that indicative of a slow-speed press?

 

[nine4gmc]

I got your message.

That does have a slow speed option, IDK if they came with them from the factory on Delta models, mine had a 7" front spindle pulley so it was a factory metal drill press. Looks like someone fabbed a belt guard on that one also, so the slow speed center pulley may have been fabbed as well, lets see what the others say. For the price you paid, you got a really good deal IMO, no matter the vises, that on/off switch alone goes for $50-100. If the vises are any good, I'd say YOU **** and that's a compliment around here.

If you get a chance, measure the front pulley's largest diameter. Also, check that Vintage Machinery link above once you are registered for the parts manual, you will see exactly how it comes apart and goes back together. If I'm not mistaken, the spindle requires a bearing with a special inside diameter but it's been a while since I restored mine. Looking back, I wish I had never sold it but I can't keep them all. If you plan to keep that machine, I do suggest tearing it completely down and replacing all bearings, the old ones may feel fine but once you start using it, the old bearings can go bad quickly, especially if you wash the dried grease from them. Personally, I like new sealed bearings, shielded will require lubrication each time you use it.

I think got $300 for mine restored and it did not have the center pulley or belt guard and I believe I paid about $65 but it was missing the motor mount and the table had an arc of shame, yours is complete with extras and the table looks great.

 

[sethmac]

Thanks nine4gmc. First teardown here (actually first drill press of my own). Where would you suggest I purchase bearings?

Thanks!

 

[nine4gmc]

I buy bearings on ebay usually if I'm not in a rush, they are much cheaper for the same thing you find locally. Take lots of pics during tear down and measure the inner diameter of the bearings to make sure they are the correct ones when you order. For instance, a 6202 bearing may be a standard 5/8" ID or it may be a 15mm metric ID. It's only a slight difference but one will not work in place of the other.

If you do tear down the machine and replace all bearings, that should be the last drill press you will ever need. It could last you a lifetime.

 

[sethmac]

Finally got to look at it in good light. The pulley guard is definitely fabricated (not to mention the addtion of the orange paint).

Do you know how to remove the chuck on these? Do you just wedge it out? I have a small ball joint spreader and rubber mallet. Don' won't to damage it though.

 

[sethmac]

Ok..for other's reference, I think I finally found some instructions here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2548.pdf

 

[Packard V8]

Where would you suggest I purchase bearings? Thanks!

Therein is the only downside of the otherwise excellent Delta 14" DPs. They use a non-standard inner sleeve in the bearing which makes it NLA. Because it has to be fabricated, the replacement cost several times what the basic bearing actually should cost.

It is possible for an owner to fabricate the inner sleeve. Directions are found over on OWWM as is contact info for a member who offers them for sale.

(BTW, when joining OWWM, first read their comprehensive list of rules, including a great many "don'ts".) http://owwm.org/app.php/page/rules?sid=dc4634e9392f2f243cff710b0c41bc9e

jack vines

 

[sethmac]

Still waiting to get approved for OWWM. In the meantime, I've removed the middle pulley, and the chuck.

Does anyone have a link to a 15-017 manual or comprehensive restore/tear down thread. I can't seem to find one on vintage machinery (tough site to find anything).

I'm hoping to make some progress tonight. Should I start with removing the spindle pulley or the tension dial for the spindle spring? What should I watch out for with the tension dial? I'm not sure how to release the pressure. I do see the worm gear but can't find removal instructions.

Thanks!

 

[tombell572]

Hi sethmac, the OWWM site (now vintagemachinery.org) is not bad to use but has a vast amount of data that takes some time to scroll through. Also, you do not have to be a member to access the data. There does not appear to be a manual or parts dwg. in their files but there are several photos of 15-017 d/p's in the photo section that may or may not be helpfull.

Tom B.

 

[sethmac]

Making good progress until I got to the bearing closure nut. Anyone experience with this? Need some sort of spanner wrench?

So far, I've hit it with PB Blaster and a screwdriver/mallet.

 

[sethmac]

Other challenge right now is getting the motor case open as the cord to the wall has some exposed wires. I'm thinking I just need to replace the whole cord.

I've removed the 4 retaining screws...any tips on cracking this case open?

 

[Packard V8]

I usually just tap on the end of the shaft with a brass hammer.

If the exposed shaft end bell needs persuasion, remove the protective cover (AKA condom) and tap on that shaft end.

jack vines

 

[sethmac]

Thanks...I was able to get into the motor. The bearings were shot on at least one side. One side stay pressed in so I had to use a punch to drive it out. The other side on the shaft I was able to press out with c-clamps and a board.

They are both labeled JAPAN 6203Z. 1) Were these likely replaced once already? I figure the originals weren't Japanese and 2) Is this a standard bearing I can order?

Still not luck getting the bearings off the spindle.

In the meantime, any suggestion on how I prepare the various parts?

Ex.

1) Paintable surfaces (how should I clean, do I need to strip old paint?
2) Screws (how should I clean these)
3) Lubrication (when to use grease vs oil and what to use where)

All feedback welcome.

Thanks!

 

[nine4gmc]

Be careful with that retainer ring, mine came out with the flat blade punch or screwdriver and lots of penetrating fluid but it was in two pieces when it came out. I think it was supposed to be one but they screwed right back in and held.

I was going to say it looks like the motor was rebuilt at some point by the paint.

You don't need to remove the paint, just anywhere that it is loose. Use a scotchbright pad to scuff it up and just paint over the old paint. I always clean with water and dawn dish liquid soap, make sure to rinse well after you have cleaned it. When the water no longer beads, it's usually clean enough.

You can clean the screws with a wire wheel if you have one, otherwise you may need a wire brush and manually clean them.

I used a light grease on the spindle of one machine and it gummed up, since then I have used 30w non-detergent oil on most of them. I also used a chainsaw spray lube but honestly the 30w oil works great. I oil every part that has friction. Make sure the bearings are installed first, you don't want oil between the shaft and bearings or they may spin. If you use sealed bearings they will not need to be oiled but wipe the spindle and quill real good with oil after the bearings are in place.

 

[sethmac]

So the motor bearings look standard.

Are the spindle bearings the one's I'm going to have to find someone to fabricate? Can't seem to find the guy on OWWM.

 

[nine4gmc]

They don't need to be fabricated, there are just two options in that part number IIRC with one being standard and one metric. You'll have to measure to see which one is needed and order them. I just read the part number, ordered and they did not fit, had to back track to find my mistake, took a few days to figure out wtf the problem was.

Measure the id of the motor bearings too, they should be a standard size but my Craftsman motor had irregular size ID bearings with a common part number and I had the same thing happen with them, ordering twice. Save your time and money and verify first.

 

[sethmac]

nine4gmc. Any suggestions on paint type and color?

 

[Packard V8]

Motor bearings are standard size.

At least on my Delta DP, the quill has three bearings. Two are in the quill (identical), and one in the spindle pulley. The one in the spindle pulley is the hard-to-find. It has an inner sleeve which extends beyond the bearing width and it has an integral set screw, so that you can tighten it to the shaft.

Yours may differ.

jack vines

 

[sethmac]

Motor bearings are standard size.

At least on my Delta DP, the quill has three bearings. Two are in the quill (identical), and one in the spindle pulley. The one in the spindle pulley is the hard-to-find. It has an inner sleeve which extends beyond the bearing width and it has an integral set screw, so that you can tighten it to the shaft.

Yours may differ.

jack vines

Packard, Here are pictures of what I have. It spins smoothly (at least to me). Any chance it doesn't need changing? How do you go about removing this one? Are the other two on the spindle standard sizes?

 

[Packard V8]

It very possibly will not need changing. The DPs with the intermediate pulley were often used at slower speeds, thus less wear on the bearing Only way to know is to spin it up to medium RPMs, check for run-out and listen for noise.

jack vines

 

[sethmac]

Finally finished my restore of my Delta Drill Press 15-017. Before and After Photos posted. Any advice on where I can find a chuck key for a Supreme Chuck R15T33?

BEFORE

AFTER

Pictures of Chuck

 

[nine4gmc]

Sethmac, that came out great! Makes me miss mine even more now. I think the chuck key you need is a K3 chuck key. Most big box stores, hardware stores etc will have them or you can find them on ebay.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[sethmac]

Thanks...I was able to pick up the following at Ace:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=30845976

 

[schor]

Nice job on the press.