Junction box for #2 wire?

[Jim Johnstone]

Hi guys,

I'm removing the fuse box in my garage, that has #2 wire coming into the bottom of it, and replacing it with a breaker panel that top loads. I need to lengthen the wire that is already there and want to know what type of junction box/terminal block out there that will allow me to tie into my existing wire?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[VHF]

Note that with most breaker pannels it is permissible to install it "upside down" so the main breaker is at the bottom... would that allow you to avoid extending the incoming wires?

For splicing #2 I would use Polaris InsulTap connectors. You would need a large enough junction box to contain the splice. There are code rules that dictate the volume of the box. Maybe one of our code gurus can tell us the size required for three (assumed) #2 conductors coming in and going out.

Another option that might be possible is to use a disconnect box (such as a pull-out disconnect typically used for outdoor A/C units) as your splice point. This gives you screw terminals for the wires coming in and going out. These are very inexpensive, however you need to make sure it will accept #2 wire which is a little heavier than typically used for a A/C compressor!

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I've thought about putting in some sort of disconnect, but so far the A/C types I've seen aren't rated for 100 amps, and anything rated for 100 amps tends to be more like $100.

If I could find an inexpensive 100 amp A/C switch, I'd use that.

 

[trbomax]

I have used the large grey plastc, weatherproof boxes from hd or lowes. They are 6x6x6 or 10x10x10 and surface mount. You will have to hole saw the cut outs for the conduit where you want them.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I have used the large grey plastc, weatherproof boxes from hd or lowes. They are 6x6x6 or 10x10x10 and surface mount. You will have to hole saw the cut outs for the conduit where you want them.

What do you use to splice the wires in the box?

 

[trbomax]

Like this. Splice with split bolts.

 

[Alchymist]

Splice with split bolts, a wrap of rubber tape, followed with a wrap of plastic electrical tape. The plastic boxes are so-so ok, I prefer the metal ones, but they can get pricey. Note that if you use a metal box with plastic conduit, the box needs a ground connection.

 

[trbomax]

good point about the equipment ground. Ive had the plastic boxes up here going on 8 yrs now,they are in the shade,and completely covered by snow in winter. So far they seem as good as new.They do not say "outdoor use" anywhere on them though.For indoor use,they would have an indefinite service life,they are the same as the boxes used with grey plastic conduit material.

 

[hammlm]

I know everybody has thier thing, but whenever I used to do splitbolts, I first put on a wrap of plastic (3M "33") tape one layer thick, then the rubber tape, then plastic on the outside. I used to find that the rubber would bond to the bronze/copper and leave residue. Only really an issue if I was coming back later to undo the split bolts --- a very common occurence when building temporary services, etc.

The plastic comes right off, leaves minimal residue. Also, if you've never installed rubber tape, make sure you stretch it about 40-50% as you are installing it. It bonds (some call it self-vulcanizing) better when stretched.