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Let's see your Skilsaw #77 Worm Drives!

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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
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Location
Marengo, Illinois
Just gave the ole girl some love with a much improved Magnesium base plate from a Bosch saw, and a really nice 12/3 cord I scored for $16 on clearance at Menards. The original base plate must have taken some abuse, as it was nowhere near straight.

20201214_154251 by Jon S, on Flickr

20201214_134607 by Jon S, on Flickr

Quite the cord to uncoil now. Nice thing is you won't constantly need to pony it to an extension cord.
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
I just picked up a good portion of a friend's skilsaw collection so i'm sure i'll be posting up more pictures and questions here soon.

that said my question today is asking if there is a VINTAGE SKILL SAW THREAD cause i've got other saws that are pretty well built and preserved i'd like to show and get more information about?

hope you all have a great 2021 as our world gets back to crazy normal hopefully soon.
 

Jzr756

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
12
Location
California
[/GP]Hi all,

I just ran into a vintage worm saw my dad has. From the research I have done so far which is little I think I ended up here. I have a Skilsaw Model E, that’s works and has normal wear and tear for the year. The metal riveted batch says it’s a Model E from “Michel Electric Hand Saw Co” any idea what is possibly worth?
I realize this is a very old thread, but I can't help to ask, is this the same Skil model "E" for sale on Ebay for $ 3,500?
 

mojojojo1962

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May 4, 2022
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Estate sale find.... NIB Mag 77 50th ann. gold from 1987. Never opened.
 

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driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
Here's a Model 77 (SHD77) I bought from a friend for $20, it needed a trigger switch, sourced off amazon prime for < $20 shipped. It works well, and I have the lube for it I got off amazon prime $7 a tube shipped. It needs a blade guard lever, ereplacementparts shipping is > the part. I'm gonna see if I can find a local service center where I can order it. I posted an 825 earlier, I've had for 49 years, still working fine, though my daily need for it is very-low. I bought it when I was working construction in Miami in the early 1970's, and bought it at a flea market, used. This 77 is much-lighter than the all-aluminum housing/steel shoe 825.


Skil SHD77.01.gifSkil SHD77.02.gifSkil SHD77.03.gifSkil worm-drive saw grease 80111.jpg
Skil.01.jpg
 

tgodon

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Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
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Location
New Jersey
I've had this saw for quite a long time, it was my father's. I used it probably 30 years ago, but it has been stored ever since. I may be interested in selling it, but not sure what it is worth vs. the personal value of keeping something my father owned. I am located in NJ, but could possibly ship it, but I assume shipping would be fairly expensive due to the weight of the saw and steel box.Skil77-1.jpgSkil77-2.jpgSkil77-3.jpgSkil77-5.jpgSkil77-4.jpg
 

crguy

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Jan 24, 2016
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Location
SW Washington
I've had this saw for quite a long time, it was my father's. I used it probably 30 years ago, but it has been stored ever since. I may be interested in selling it, but not sure what it is worth vs. the personal value of keeping something my father owned. I am located in NJ, but could possibly ship it, but I assume shipping would be fairly expensive due to the weight of the saw and steel box.Skil77-1.jpgSkil77-2.jpgSkil77-3.jpgSkil77-5.jpgSkil77-4.jpg
IMO, those haven't achieved much collectible value. Not old enough, too many of them still around, etc. Shipping would likely be more than the value of the saw itself.
 

Mr. Wonderful

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Jan 15, 2018
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Location
Pacific Northwest
take a look over on this thread. those guys have done some amazing things. If that were mine and it belonged to my father I'd do the full polish on it and make it something to remember him. Just my .02

 

woodchuck_chuck

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Aug 14, 2023
Messages
3
Hello all! Mr. Wonderful suggested I try here with a question I've got (and posted separately) about an HD77 I just picked up. It's got a 220V plug installed, and I am wondering if I can get away with swapping just the plug back to a 117V without also changing out the commutator. I'm guessing (but can't know for sure) that the factory commutator was swapped aftermarket for a 220v commutator by a Black and Decker service center, who left their calling card dated 1999 on the power cord. Not a lot of information about that particular modification or aftermarket part, so I'll take whatever info I can get!
 

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RTM

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Hello all! Mr. Wonderful suggested I try here with a question I've got (and posted separately) about an HD77 I just picked up. It's got a 220V plug installed,!
are you sure that’s not a 20a twist lock L5-20P or L14-20P?.

I’ve got some different 115v 5-15P plug to twist lock cord adapters. Look carefully before you whack it with 220v
 

woodchuck_chuck

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are you sure that’s not a 20a twist lock L5-20P or L14-20P?.

I’ve got some different 115v 5-15P plug to twist lock cord adapters. Look carefully before you whack it with 220v
Heh, I had absolutely no intention of whacking it with 220V anyway :) That's an excellent point, I am not at all familiar with those connectors. It looked like a 220V US dryer plug to me. I'll check these out when I get home - thank you!
 

Son of a Mortensen

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Sep 21, 2023
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Hi everyone, I stumbled on this thread and just wanted to share my saws. The two worm drives, gold anniversary and 77 belonged to my father who was a builder, they were his go to saws and they have been my every day saws as well for 15 years doing roofing and framing. I just picked up the gold classic for $4.95 and it works like a charm! I'm had no idea the gold worm drive was such a limited run, my dad bought it new when i was only 1 year old! I'm happy to see that there are still some other ones out there running strong. 1000010260.jpg
 

BreeStephany

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Oregon
Just wanted to throw out to everyone on this thread that if you are looking for NOS parts for your Vintage "Blue Labels", I probably have them laying around or can help source modern replacements. Also have LOTS of the basic parts (bearings, brushes, switches, bakelite handles, etc.) for the old drills, locomotive sanders, have some of the more modern parts and have a full modern part equivalents list for the Skil 100's. Willing to part with parts for the cost of shipping for those here looking to restore, provided you make a thread with pictures of your resto on GJ.

I've pretty much completed my collection with a Blue Label 67, 77, 825, 107 and 127, just waiting for that day that I actually find a Skil 117 Groover for a reasonable price that is actually restorable :ROFLMAO:.

Always happy to help others with their resto projects on these old Skils. Feel free to PM me or tag me in a resto thread.
 

GalaxyRat

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Nov 16, 2018
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386
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Florida
I'll go ahead and revive this thread with a Skilsaw Model 77 I found on marketplace. I bought it because I have the blue label Model 825 and a "underline-C" Craftsman 7" worm drive. I've wanted a blue label Model 77 and now that I have it, I'm excited to service it and use it. The saw runs well and looks like it was used for masonry work or stone cutting. Based on the brochure and manual that came with it, I think it's from 1946-47. On Vintage Machinery the Skil Catalog #47 (1947) has the same theme and layout. I will attach a link to the scanned brochure and manual that came with the saw. They are in very rough shape, so if anyone knows of more intact copies, I would love to see them.
***Scan Link*** https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:US:e36ee2c4-4e33-46a0-acf9-ebf32a05e5de

If anyone has more info about this saw, I would love to know more. From what I understand, the blue labels were made from the early-late 1940s. This saw also has an oil level sight glass, which I haven't seen before. Was this common in the later models of this era? Let me know what everyone thinks!
 

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GalaxyRat

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I'll go ahead and revive this thread with a Skilsaw Model 77 I found on marketplace. I bought it because I have the blue label Model 825 and a "underline-C" Craftsman 7" worm drive. I've wanted a blue label Model 77 and now that I have it, I'm excited to service it and use it. The saw runs well and looks like it was used for masonry work or stone cutting. Based on the brochure and manual that came with it, I think it's from 1946-47. On Vintage Machinery the Skil Catalog #47 (1947) has the same theme and layout. I will attach a link to the scanned brochure and manual that came with the saw. They are in very rough shape, so if anyone knows of more intact copies, I would love to see them.
***Scan Link*** https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:US:e36ee2c4-4e33-46a0-acf9-ebf32a05e5de

If anyone has more info about this saw, I would love to know more. From what I understand, the blue labels were made from the early-late 1940s. This saw also has an oil level sight glass, which I haven't seen before. Was this common in the later models of this era? Let me know what everyone thinks!
Here are a few more pictures:
 

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Beerhippie

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IIRC, I purchased this HD77M new in 1992. $169, which was a day's work back then.

53562008035_a0e7bed206_b.jpg

Label says "S.B Tools Chicago Made in USA".

It got new grips this spring and a new trigger a few years ago. No idea how many cords it's had!
 

B Halverson

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Sep 26, 2024
Messages
304
I don't remember where or when I picked this up, but I cleaned it up the other day and threw it in the case with my nice old 40s Skilsaw worm-drive. Was it made by Armstrong? ;

skilsaw wrench a.jpg

skilsaw wrench b.jpg
 

BreeStephany

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If anyone has more info about this saw, I would love to know more. From what I understand, the blue labels were made from the early-late 1940s. This saw also has an oil level sight glass, which I haven't seen before. Was this common in the later models of this era? Let me know what everyone thinks!
I think you are right in the production date of the saw, it's likely late 40's based on the blue label but the 'newer' style top nameplate before they began transitioning it over to the orange / red & black version of the same time in the LATE 40's / early 50's.

Most of the blue labels I've seen have sight glasses on the gear case. The older Skil saws have leather bearing seals, so they gradually leaked with use and more so, if they got low on oil / were stored without oil on the seals, the seals would shrink and eventually crack and fail. Because of this, I believe that Skil utilized the sight glass as an attempt to make checking levels easier as most people wouldn't crack open the fill port too often to check the gearcase level.

The scanned images of the documentation you found with the saw are AMAZING and definitely going into my Skil digital archive!

The saw definitely saw it's fair share of moisture, either in the field over the years or stored in a barn or garage over the years. It's nice to hear that despite the moisture and corrosion, it's still running strong.

If it were me, I would wire wheel the case and throw a little primer and gloss "aluminum/silver" enamel/ 2k paint on it. At a minimum, I definitely recommend draining out the old oil, filling it up with new Skil 80111 drive lube, running it under load for a little while until it gets warm, drain it again and replace again to clean out any buildup / deposits in the gear case, given it's age.

I definitely do recommended replacing the cord with a modern SOOW whip like a Skil 95104L replacement cord or if you want a longer whip, grab some 12-3 SOOW cord.

Because it is a metal cased tool and is not double insulated, make sure the ground conductor has a good bond to the case via a 10-32 screw.

I have quite a bit of NOS parts for these saws, so if you are looking for parts, feel free to message me!

Just my two cents!
 

pcrov

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Joined
Feb 27, 2023
Messages
383
Location
Ontario, CA
Here is an old 367 type 1 I found a while back in my grandfather's garage. Just got it making sawdust again yesterday, though it struggles to. It shows signs of working a long hard life and I don't mind putting it on the display shelf.

Kinda neat - the depth arm tucks up into the upper guard, which I haven't seen before.

Anyone know what year this might be from?

(Don't mind the gap between the two halves of the body casing. The rotor wanted a bit of elbow room.)
 

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