greasegunn
New member
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2015
- Messages
- 4
What is the general opinion on the Lisle brand of automotive tools? I know it may depend on each particular tool but generally thumbs up or down?
Serviceable stuff at a good price. Fine for tools that you seldom use, pullers etc. Worth about what they cost.
They make tap holding sockets, so you can use taps with your ratchet. They work great. Made in USA. Bluepoint rebrands these to sell for themselves.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRFOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Description says USA, specifications say "Origin: China".![]()
The only Lisle tool I have ever been disappointed with was the 1 piece torx bits. Very soft, twisted in first use, most noticable in the smaller sizes. Other then that, very happy.
odd but 3 days ago I went to use a Lisle T25 and my mistake was put it in the battery impact.The second I hit the trigger I knew it was the wrong choice.
broke all the teeth off the torx bit.
So I head to Sears where I bought them and they wouldnt warranty them.
I needed to finish so bought the Craftsman set,tried it out right in parking lot
and instantly snapped the bit in half,just as clean as a laser cut.
Walked back in store for another set,exchanged them and VERY carefully
worked the remaining bolts out with only slightly permanently twisting the bit.
Now this isnt the first Lisle Torx Ive broken,so I called and am sending them 3 to warranty a T25,T50,T55.
Do they warrantee their tools? I've got a broken Torx.
Do they warrantee their tools? I've got a broken Torx.
Interesting. I have been playing around with a set that we decided to make out of S2 tool steel but eventually just shelved the project because I figured this category was pretty covered.
Is a set that don't kill itself hard to come by?
Interesting. I have been playing around with a set that we decided to make out of S2 tool steel but eventually just shelved the project because I figured this category was pretty covered.
Is a set that don't kill itself hard to come by?
I ve got a few SO ones and havent broken those
I bought the Lisle set needing one on the weekend(was probably for brake calipers or seat belts)
both the lisle one piece and the Craftsman 2 piece seemed like they were too brittle. If the bit breaks or shears the teeth off and the torx fastener isnt harmed perhaps thats the intent,but to me shows its not as strong as the fastener.
I would be glad to send you a couple new fasteners,put in a vise and see what fails,the tool or the fastener.
Hard, strong, tough. All different. Hard is potentially brittle if over done, leading to cracking and breakage. But without it durable. Strong is a general term that describes nothing on a scientific level. And tough is the ability for metal to withstand wear while keeping all the elements in the steel where you want them (ie. More stainless, more carbon, etc). I think in bits there's a fine line between a low rc and a high rc. On One hand a high rc creates more hardness which reduces "strength" as people describe it, but it also limits twisting and deforming. A low rc would cause less rust sure to less carbon but also not prevent twisting as much as a higher rc, while the high rc cracks. I've cracked torx sockets and as was stated earlier, the fastener stays fine. Which do you choose, harder or softer? I'm 50/50 lolKeeping your name, may pm you about this later (going to be traveling a lot overseas next month and a half, and as I said this project was tabled).
Everyone has their own preference, but from an engineering standpoint I prefer to over do it on the alloy and under do it on the HRC heat treatment. It's better in the example of a bit than using Cr-V and aiming for the 50's. There's a difference between hard and strong.
To me, the tool has always got to be harder than the fastener. Sure the fastener can be rounded, stripped or damaged - but if you're using the tool properly and that happens it sounds like the fastener needed some special treatment from the get go that no softer bit would have solved.