Looking for a high quality parts cleaner.

[Grant Gunderson]

I’m looking to get a parts cleaner for cleaning customers shocks and forks prior to service.

Never owned one, so no idea where to begin. I’ll most like be using a mix of water with simple green aircraft solution. I don’t mind spending a bit for a high-quality unit.

 

[Beerhippie]

Are you looking for an ultrasonic cleaner or a washer?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Are you looking for an ultrasonic cleaner or a washer?

I already have an ultrasonic cleaner. This will be for scrubbing suspension components down prior to opening for service.

 

[Beerhippie]

So a parts washer.

 

[Hammer1963]

It sounds like a heated power wash tank is what you might need. Very effective cleaning. A machine shop I worked at years ago had one. It was mostly used for engine parts, tool & die repairs and for the same thing you are doing. The name on the unit was Ranger

 

[merkyworks]

Worked part time in bike shops over the years and used basically two different type. Solvent/Varsol and water/biodegradable based.

Varsol is petroleum based, similar to kerosene. Stuff works! Just has the downside of working with a real chemical, so wear PPE. Also can be a pain to properly dispose of when it’s time to change fluid out.
https://www.safety-kleen.com/products/parts-washers/solvent/model-1630

Biodegradable water based. Cleans just as good as Varsol in my opinion and if you don’t wear PPE it’s not the end of the world. It’s biodegradable so disposing of is easy. Only downside is the water has to be hot/warm for the stuff to work. For a retail bike shop no big deal, just turn the washer on when you open the shop and in 30 min you’re ready to go. For a home shop though this could be a PITA depending on how you use It.
https://www.safety-kleen.com/products/parts-washers/aqueous/model-94905

Typical cleaner would be a barrel with sink on top, loc-line faucet and a flow through scrub brush/hose, like pic below. This setup works really well and should be big enough for cleaning forks without issue. I say should be, cause we never did any dual crown DH forks. Whatever setup you go with just make sure it has a flow through brush cause you will want that.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Worked part time in bike shops over the years and used basically two different type. Solvent/Varsol and water/biodegradable based.

Varsol is petroleum based, similar to kerosene. Stuff works! Just has the downside of working with a real chemical, so wear PPE. Also can be a pain to properly dispose of when it’s time to change fluid out.
https://www.safety-kleen.com/products/parts-washers/solvent/model-1630

Biodegradable water based. Cleans just as good as Varsol in my opinion and if you don’t wear PPE it’s not the end of the world. It’s biodegradable so disposing of is easy. Only downside is the water has to be hot/warm for the stuff to work. For a retail bike shop no big deal, just turn the washer on when you open the shop and in 30 min you’re ready to go. For a home shop though this could be a PITA depending on how you use It.
https://www.safety-kleen.com/products/parts-washers/aqueous/model-94905

Typical cleaner would be a barrel with sink on top, loc-line faucet and a flow through scrub brush/hose, like pic below. This setup works really well and should be big enough for cleaning forks without issue. I say should be, cause we never did any dual crown DH forks. Whatever setup you go with just make sure it has a flow through brush cause you will want that.

Awesome. That’s the exact info I needed. Just need to find the right unit. I’m going to build out an open concept service area so it’s gotta look good too

 

[burger]

I heavily modified my Harbor Freight parts washer. Added a separate sump (Rubbermaid tote), put the pump in there, and use a water heater element with a cheap Rainbird temperature controller. Added a diesel fuel filter to clean the solvent. I use Purple Power. Solvent is pumped back through a brush. Works well, much better than stock, they should sell them this way. Complaints: the bulkhead NPT fitting that I used thru the tote for the heater element has a slow leak and over months I lose an inch or two of solvent. Not enough though that it drips on the floor, must evaporate on the tote as it is crusty with evidence. It takes 20 minutes to heat up and is much more effective once heated. I have about $250 into it.

 

[Junkman]

I heavily modified my Harbor Freight parts washer. Added a separate sump (Rubbermaid tote), put the pump in there, and use a water heater element with a cheap Rainbird temperature controller. Added a diesel fuel filter to clean the solvent. I use Purple Power. Solvent is pumped back through a brush. Works well, much better than stock, they should sell them this way. Complaints: the bulkhead NPT fitting that I used thru the tote for the heater element has a slow leak and over months I lose an inch or two of solvent. Not enough though that it drips on the floor, must evaporate on the tote as it is crusty with evidence. It takes 20 minutes to heat up and is much more effective once heated. I have about $250 into it.

Thanks Junk

 

[Steve_P]

If you are going to use a water-based solution, you should have much better luck vs using something like kerosene, which kills the cheap typical parts washer pumps very quickly. With a water-based solution, you should be able to get by with a HF, northern tool..... unit for years. But I think you want something better.

If you can afford a commercial unit, $500+, and are going to use water-based solution, you should be able to go big with either used units from major commercial brands like SO, Satety Kleen, Zep.... But for something new, this is what Zoro has, less drum

https://www.zoro.com/build-all-parts-washer-sink-on-drum-fits-16-or-30-gallon-drums-pump-flex-hose-brush-swh1630mshnl/i/G608456077/

https://www.zoro.com/build-all-parts-washer-sink-on-drum-30-gallon-drum-metal-flex-hose-solvents-tkl-30/i/G008456080/

 

[vssjim]

Gray Mills https://www.graymills.com/ Been making parts washer forever very good quality

 

[William Payne]

You would think things like parts washers and blast cabinets would be a really easy thing to find a high quality example of. But the ones you see in stores always look like they were made as cheaply as possible out of the flimsiest sheet metal.

I will be paying attention to this thread.

 

[Don1357]

Honestly the technology behind a parts cleaner is rather mundane; a pump and the real estate to work the parts. Cheap ones are flimsy, good ones use thicker metal, brand whoring cost you a lot without giving you much else in return (Snap on, I'm looking at you). If you are not in a hurry your best bet is to keep an eye on FB marketplace or CL.

If it doesn't have a light on a swan neck you should add one. Sticking to water based degreasers will make your life a lot easier.

 

[bornbadbob]

If you seriously want a quality washer and money isn’t an object, something like this is the hot ticket. Works wonders and other than loading and unloading no labour involved other than pushing a button

 

[Wamsutta]

The stuff in the white spray bottle is very good.

 

[garfieldzzz]

if you use a heated washer which has the bacteria wash fluid in be careful to test first the agent as we have one at work which ate some coating of a steel hub even so being gentle to parts in general also for anodized parts. Its a Kärcher unit but it seems its not available in the US. (I work around race cars)

Also keep in mind to compare the aftermath of the systems like always on power for bio based and the consumables like filters, fluids bacteria dispoal of used of fluids etc.

Parts cleaning in car workshops | Kärcher International

There are various solutions for parts cleaning in workshops: High-pressure cleaners, dry-ice blasters and parts washing systems. Discover them now.

www.kaercher.com

Its the biological parts cleaner. Other than the above mentioned a similar unit works quite well, i would just suggest to have a big SS Sink nearby to rinse the parts first if muddy and to get the residues of the cleaner off as it feels a bit oily/soapy afterwards

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Right up my alley as that’s what we do.

I have a Magido hp30 for the parts washer. Has a wand and a brush. Heats to 170f.

After that I have a Pro Ultrasonics cleaner they get zapped in.

Both great machines. Highly recommend.

 

[seber]

Varsol is petroleum based, similar to kerosene. Stuff works! Just has the downside of working with a real chemical, so wear PPE. Also can be a pain to properly dispose of when it’s time to change fluid out.
https://www.safety-kleen.com/products/parts-washers/solvent/model-1630

You really should never need to dispose of cleaning solvent. Just keep it running through a good filter. Our machine shop used kerosene (not the best choice) and In the 29 years I was there, it was never changed once.

 

[William Payne]

It crossed my mind once about making one out of a chest freezer.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I bought this Kleer flow at a swap meet for $100 several years ago. I cleaned it up a little and found it vastly superior for my uses on large components than the sink on a can it replaced. They do pop up used on occasion. Deep enough for large parts and I just add a rack to raise inside height for small parts. It's around 4' wide though so does take up some wall space. I've never changed the solvent it came with and it runs, well, Kleerish.

 

[Steve_P]

Honestly the technology behind a parts cleaner is rather mundane; a pump and the real estate to work the parts. Cheap ones are flimsy, good ones use thicker metal, brand whoring cost you a lot without giving you much else in return (Snap on, I'm looking at you). If you are not in a hurry your best bet is to keep an eye on FB marketplace or CL.

If it doesn't have a light on a swan neck you should add one. Sticking to water based degreasers will make your life a lot easier.

This is true, but a lot of the more expensive commercial ones are set up to use solvents like kerosene or mineral spirits- and the pumps last; this difference in pump quality is part of what you're paying for. I looked into this years ago when the pump on my HF unit died, and a pump that would handle solvents like kerosene cost more than the entire HF unit did at that time.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I bought this Kleer flow at a swap meet for $100 several years ago. I cleaned it up a little and found it vastly superior for my uses on large components than the sink on a can it replaced. They do pop up used on occasion. Deep enough for large parts and I just add a rack to raise inside height for small parts. It's around 4' wide though so does take up some wall space. I've never changed the solvent it came with and it runs, well, Kleerish.

I think for $100 that was a pretty good deal.

 

[merkyworks]

solvents are petroleum based, so a carburetor fuel pumps can be used.

 

[MongoTA]

I have a Gray-Mills Handi-Kleen parts washer. I think the tub is about 32" x 17" and 12" deep. It's been more than adequate for my needs. Pump can handle both types of cleaning solutions.

No complaints. I picked it up at auction for $70, so there are deals to be had. It came with legs, I removed the legs and I have it on a rolling cart.

 

[nutjob]

These are the 2 most common styles for a manual parts washer.




We used to have the drum type back in the 70's & 80's and this was serviced by Safety Kleen and was solvent. The solvent was slow evaporating and left a film that you could use brake clean to prep for paint.

I have the other type and much prefer it. On mine you can lift the inside tray and put parts in the solvent to soak. I use the Crown 5 gal. PSC 1000 Parts Cleaner from Tractor supply. Again slow evaporating and leaves a film that you need to remove before painting.
I have this model: https://www.graymills.com/handi-kleen-1204.html model PL36

Also with this type I built a cabinet for it to sit on with drawers for storage on wheels.

Because I don't use this that often I avoided the water based cleaners and it sits in a garage that could go below freezing.

Kevin

 

[dscheidt]

You would think things like parts washers and blast cabinets would be a really easy thing to find a high quality example of. But the ones you see in stores always look like they were made as cheaply as possible out of the flimsiest sheet metal.

I will be paying attention to this thread.

People buying industrial quality parts washers are not buying them from a retail store. They're buying it from the manufacturer, an industrial supplier, or renting it from someone who also services it. The stuff in retail stores is for hobbyists, farmers, and the like, who are cheap. They're also not likely to be using it hard all day, every day, the way a machine shop or transmission builder does, so they're probably okay with a cheap one. Lots of these get bought because someone has a project they need it for. they get used for that, and never again.


It's easy to find good quality parts washers. Pick up the phone, call Graymills, McMaster, Safety-Klean, or one of their competitors. Any of them will be happy to take your money and provide you with a washer and the solvent or detergent for it, for whatever it is your going to use it for and on.

 

[William Payne]

The stuff in retail stores is for hobbyists, farmers, and the like

I’m basing it on people I’ve worked for and trade supply stores I’ve been to. But I learned a long time ago that many business owners are cheap, so the stores stock what they can sell which is cheap products.

I have to special order everything.

My local industrial supply even started stocking a cheap version of loctite. When I saw that I was genuinely annoyed. I don’t want a cheap good enough equivalent. I want my damn loctite.

It’s the same with welding supplies. I should have to special order my damn consumables.

Yes I am a little mad about that.

 

[BFHtime]

I heavily modified my Harbor Freight parts washer. Added a separate sump (Rubbermaid tote), put the pump in there, and use a water heater element with a cheap Rainbird temperature controller. Added a diesel fuel filter to clean the solvent. I use Purple Power. Solvent is pumped back through a brush. Works well, much better than stock, they should sell them this way. Complaints: the bulkhead NPT fitting that I used thru the tote for the heater element has a slow leak and over months I lose an inch or two of solvent. Not enough though that it drips on the floor, must evaporate on the tote as it is crusty with evidence. It takes 20 minutes to heat up and is much more effective once heated. I have about $250 into it.

I would love to see pics of this. I would like the idea of building/modifying my own. If I was to purchase one to do just that.