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Looking to build bowfishing deck, welder/spoolgun

89GLH

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Currently I have a 2003 Triton 173 Sport bass boat. Bass is fun and all, but I've gotten more into catfishing and love the fight a lot more. Catfishing also allows me to unplug and just sit, to disconnect from work (infosec). Does anyone have a recommendation of the lowest end welder that can run a spool gun for aluminum? I want to build a bowfishing platform on this boat, rather than drop $30k on a new Sea Ark.
 
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GeoBruin

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Currently I have a 2003 Triton 173 Sport bass boat. Bass is fun and all, but I've gotten more into catfishing and love the fight a lot more. Catfishing also allows me to unplug and just sit, to disconnect from work (infosec). Does anyone have a recommendation of the lowest end welder that can run a spool gun for aluminum? I want to build a bowfishing platform on this boat, rather than drop $30k on a new Sea Ark.
No recommendations for you but it might help to soecify the thickness of the material you will need to weld. Aluminum requires a lot of amps, so while there may be 140 amp machines out there that will operate with a spool gun, it might not be enough power for what you're looking to do.
 

imagineer

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I run a Lincoln Weld-Pro 175 and use a SG100 spool gun. I can weld down to 1/16" aluminum.
 

MOS3522

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If you are building out of new aluminum and not welding into anything weathered you can TIG with aluminum rod. If your aluminum is not virgin then yes go spool gun it's the only way.
 
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bdbecker

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How much experience do you have welding aluminum? It is a different animal than steel. We took on a job at work a number of years ago and had trouble finding enough guys in the shop that could get proficient with it. I'm not talking about hack welders either, these are some of the most talented people I've worked with.

The reason I bring this up is that for the cost of the new welder and the time invested in learning to weld aluminum well (not just sticking pieces together, but being able to make something that you can safely stand on), it may be worth modifying your design to use mechanical fasteners or an alternate material instead. More money for fishing gear, and more time on the water.

Now, if you think you'll have a long term need for the machine and it's a skill you've always wanted to learn, then I say go for it. However, if this more of a one-time project, it may be worth considering a redesign.
 

MoonRise

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Power MIG 360MP with a push-pull gun. Only around $16-18k or so, depending if you go for a water-cooled 450 amp rated gun that can handle the full amperage of the machine or if you settle for a lower-amperage 225 amp rated air-cooled gun. :LOL:

As mentioned, what thickness of aluminum do you think you will be dealing with and just how 'good' do you want/need the welds to be?

More 'good' usually means more $$$ for the machinery to accomplish that.


In general, although some of the 140 amp class wire feed machines can weld aluminum, their capabilities are rather limited. And some of the 'small' machines only have their volt-amp relationships able to weld using 4xxx filler and not 5xxx filler.

If you want/need to anodize the workpiece after welding and get a color match between the base material and the weld, you'll usually want/need to use 5356 filler/electrode as 4043 anodizes a dark grey while base 6xxx material anodizes clear/silver (unless color anodized or dyed).

But 5356 produces more '****' than 4043 filler does. And 5356 filler has an upper service temperature limit of 150F.

And not all aluminum alloys are even weldable. And welding aluminum is -different- than welding steel.



If you are not willing or able or motivated to invest the time, money, and effort into learning to weld aluminum, then rethink your project joining choices and/or hire out the aluminum welding to a 'good' aluminum welder (maybe a good aluminum TIG welder person).
 

Jswain

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If you can find a used Lincoln 180 welder, they sell an aluminum kit which consists of a new drive roll & Teflon liner. Skips out on the spool gun entirely.

Would recommend 5356 wire as it is stiffer and less prone to rats nest by the drive roll. You will have to make it a habit to keep your torch/liner fairly straight, and adjust wire tension properly.

They also make a spool gun for this unit. Use argon for gas.

The internet will go crazy here but I weld aluminum pushing 15ft through a Bernard whip on my miller 250 with the correct drive rolls & a Teflon liner and have not once(knock on wood) have had a feeding issue.

In other countries spool guns are basically unheard of. The cheap yeswelders etc. will also weld aluminum without a spool gun.

Biggest thing I've found with mig aluminum, other then make sure it's clean, is push only, and preheat the start of your weld. When you Tig you can wait a few seconds til everything is nice and hot then start moving, with mig you don't have that luxury. It's not uncommon to have a cold looking start that turns into a nicer looking weld.(With mig)
 

bdbecker

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...Would recommend 5356 wire as it is stiffer and less prone to rats nest by the drive roll...

If you are running Lincoln SuperGlaze, do yourself a favor and give Alcotec a try. Significantly less flaking at the drive rolls and accumulation in the liner.

...The internet will go crazy here but I weld aluminum pushing 15ft through a Bernard whip on my miller 250 with the correct drive rolls & a Teflon liner and have not once(knock on wood) have had a feeding issue...

I'll back you up on that claim. We run the same setup - 15' Bernard with u-drive rollers, plastic feed guides and liner. This is through a Miller Continuum 500 though. Believe it or not, the old Axcess 450's actually run smoother than the Continuums with this setup, but they're dropping like flies these days and repair parts are getting difficult to find.
 

MoonRise

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Although 5356 filler/electrode is indeed stiffer than 4043, not all 'small' MIG machines have the correct volts-amps relationship to run that electrode. As I said above. :beer:

If you are running a 250-class machine, they can usually run almost any wire you want, within size/diameter/amperage limits. The 175-180 class machines, not so much as they can usually only run 4043 wire (RTFM on the specific machine to check). The newer 210-215 class machines, RTFM on the specific machine to see if it supports running both 4043 and 5356 wires.

A 450 or 500 amp class machine can usually run anything you want with the right drive rollers and contact tips and liner. :lol:

And as I said above, sometimes you want/need 4043 filler, sometimes you want/need 5356, and sometimes you want/need a different filler. All depends on the base alloy(s) you are welding together, the mechanical want/needs of the welded joint, the want/needs of the color of the welded item after possible anodizing, etc.

Yes on some of the 'small' machines sometimes do offer an 'aluminum kit' with a plastic gun liner (do NOT-NOT-NOT use the standard spiral steel gun liner with aluminum wire! ), u-groove drive rollers, and plastic feed guides. And you still need the appropriate size contact tips, which are ever so slightly larger in the wire hole diameter than a comparable contact tip for a steel wire (o.035 is NOT always 0.035 :lol_hitti ) But even then, trying to push 10-12 ft of .0035 4043 through a 'small' machine torch can be an exercise in birds nests and frustration if you are not careful and/or lucky (keep the torch cable as STRAIGHT as possible for the entire length sometimes helps).
 

Jswain

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Although 5356 filler/electrode is indeed stiffer than 4043, not all 'small' MIG machines have the correct volts-amps relationship to run that electrode. As I said above. :beer:

If you are running a 250-class machine, they can usually run almost any wire you want, within size/diameter/amperage limits. The 175-180 class machines, not so much as they can usually only run 4043 wire (RTFM on the specific machine to check). The newer 210-215 class machines, RTFM on the specific machine to see if it supports running both 4043 and 5356 wires.

A 450 or 500 amp class machine can usually run anything you want with the right drive rollers and contact tips and liner. :lol:

And as I said above, sometimes you want/need 4043 filler, sometimes you want/need 5356, and sometimes you want/need a different filler. All depends on the base alloy(s) you are welding together, the mechanical want/needs of the welded joint, the want/needs of the color of the welded item after possible anodizing, etc.

Yes on some of the 'small' machines sometimes do offer an 'aluminum kit' with a plastic gun liner (do NOT-NOT-NOT use the standard spiral steel gun liner with aluminum wire! ), u-groove drive rollers, and plastic feed guides. And you still need the appropriate size contact tips, which are ever so slightly larger in the wire hole diameter than a comparable contact tip for a steel wire (o.035 is NOT always 0.035 :lol_hitti ) But even then, trying to push 10-12 ft of .0035 4043 through a 'small' machine torch can be an exercise in birds nests and frustration if you are not careful and/or lucky (keep the torch cable as STRAIGHT as possible for the entire length sometimes helps).

I'm 90% confident a Lincoln 180(what I recommended). Will have the balls to weld 1/8" aluminum no problems with either wire, and will feed 5356 easier through a standard mig whip w/ Teflon liner.

I'm also 90% confident that there's no reason to use more then 1/8" aluminum for what he wants to build.

My post was more to bring up the point that a spool gun might not be required at all, as long as you get a welder that you can install proper drive rolls/Teflon liner in.

 
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vpd66

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Central Wisconsin
How much experience do you have welding aluminum? It is a different animal than steel. We took on a job at work a number of years ago and had trouble finding enough guys in the shop that could get proficient with it. I'm not talking about hack welders either, these are some of the most talented people I've worked with.

The reason I bring this up is that for the cost of the new welder and the time invested in learning to weld aluminum well (not just sticking pieces together, but being able to make something that you can safely stand on), it may be worth modifying your design to use mechanical fasteners or an alternate material instead. More money for fishing gear, and more time on the water.

Now, if you think you'll have a long term need for the machine and it's a skill you've always wanted to learn, then I say go for it. However, if this more of a one-time project, it may be worth considering a redesign.
What he said! I've been welding aluminum for 20 years on my job and it does take some time to get good at it. Find a shop or someone that has been doing it for a while and play them to do the welding. It will be more cost effective.
 

NUTTSGT

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I believe the Hobart Ironman 240 (not 230) has an available cheap spool gun. I f you look at a few places online like Cyberweld, you may be able to get it as a welder package.

I have a 230 and I also have the spool gun for it, but it was a much more expensive gun and probably not as readily available.
 
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jbfab

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Jun 17, 2014
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I have a Hobart 210MVP with a spoolgun that works pretty well, but I also have a Syncrowave 180SD for TIG. As others have mentioned, you will likely experience a steep learning curve, and may want to re-think the construction of your project. Something I just learned about that may be an option for you is Maker Pipe: maker pipe. I've been welding aluminum for a lot of years, but I do remember it was a steep learning curve.
 

cosmokenney

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Oct 18, 2017
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Loyalton, CA
Currently I have a 2003 Triton 173 Sport bass boat. Bass is fun and all, but I've gotten more into catfishing and love the fight a lot more. Catfishing also allows me to unplug and just sit, to disconnect from work (infosec). Does anyone have a recommendation of the lowest end welder that can run a spool gun for aluminum? I want to build a bowfishing platform on this boat, rather than drop $30k on a new Sea Ark.
I'd take a look at the MillerMatic 211. Friend has one and it welds steel real well. Took a little while to get the aluminum spool gun figured out but he's getting some decent welds out of it now. Personally I will go to great lengths to TIG aluminum if I can. I'm guessing a platform could get a little awkward to TIG, but if you have the space to lay it out on horses or whatever you should be able to do it. So maybe a multi-process welder would be a better choice.
Also do your research on the cost of materials. Last time I bought any aluminum it was stupid expensive. Though working with AL is so much easier than steel or stainless. Drilling, cutting, bending, all are a breeze.
 

Spareparts

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Consider making the Bow Deck easy to remove, like bolted down to the front platform. That way
you have a dual purpose boat, I love to bowfish but also like to cast off the front of my boat.
 

Hellpig

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I KNEW you'd be in Maryland, lol.

Plenty of youtube tutorials, many bolt together and removable, increasing utility, as SpareParts mentioned
 
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89GLH

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It's also removable. I have a set of recessed D-rings I cut into the deck so I can put 4 ratchet straps on to hold it down, one on each corner of the deck. I also had to hinge the front port side quarter - to reuse the trolling motor. Now I can pull the deck up, deploy the trolling motor, and drop the deck back down. At some point if I get $600 I dont have anything else to do with I'll pick up a different trolling motor to be mounted to the deck itself. Until then the bass boat trolling motor will do just fine.
 
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