More RaceDeck questions!......

[1hellbent]

I have been looking at all types of flooring options and I keep coming back to RaceDeck for it’s many advantages. However, I have some concerns that I would like to see addressed before I make the plunge.

I’m not necessarily looking for the cheapest flooring option, I don’t mind paying more if it’s truly a better product. What I want to avoid is after spending the money and effort of putting down a floor then regretting it later after everything is moved back in. Many flooring options talk about the ease of installation. The installation of a flooring system is not my concern, moving all of the **** out and then back in is the real project, don’t want to ever do it again unless I am moving!

(1) First of all, it’s recommended to leave a gap around the perimeter for expansion. I understand this so as to prevent buckling and tenting. But if you leave a gap, what prevents it from migrating to one side or another?

(2) What is done with the gap? My garage walls sit on top of a concrete sill so molding is not really an option. Is there a foam or elastomeric caulking that could be put in to get rid of the dirt collecting gap? Or would that then cause the same ill effects of not leaving a gap in the first place.

(3) If I put heavy cabinets and such on it around the perimeter, which I understand you can do, wouldn’t this cause buckling and tenting as well as not having a gap? Is the expansion and contraction growth actually going to move these heavy objects?

Regards,
Larry

 

[MSG C5]

I'm sure Racedeck will chime in, however the recommended gap is very small, about a one-quarter inch. This is designed to allow the tiles to slightly expand based on weather (hot/cold) fluctuations.

I am also planning a Racedeck tile installation for my 3-car garage. I am planning on going wall-to-wall width wise allowing the one-quarter inch gap on each side. I also have standing Gladiator storage units, however they are already standing at least that far from the wall if not further so I don't think there will be an issue.

I plan to edge the floor in the front by the doors and then also edge it the back as I am not going to cut the floor into a workbench/exercise area in the back of the garage. I plan to keep the residential-grade epoxy showing in that area as the Racedeck will be used primarily in the car parking areas of the garage.

 

[1hellbent]

Thank you for the reply.

Yes, I believe they call out 1/4-1/2" gap, which isn't much.

I have a Pergo laminate flooring one of the rooms in the house. Now I realize that these are two different materials but much of the same principles apply (i.e., installed over concrete, gap for expansion, etc.). Overtime, the floor system has migrated all to one side. So basically now the flooring is against the wall on one side and a 1/2" gap on the other side. Whereas originally there was a 1/4"gap on all sides. It’s now noticeable to me because the baseboard molding does not quite cover the edge of the floor on that 1/2" side.

My real concern is question (3), what happens when you set heavy objects on it, especially along the perimeter areas. Technically, what happens to the advantage of the gap that you have given for expansion, have you not overcome that with weighted objects? Yes, I know the flooring will take the weight of the heavy objects, I want to know what happens with respect to expansion vs. weighted objects?

Thanks again,
Larry

 

[billsr4]

I just installed Swisstrax 925 sq ft 3468.00 I left 1/2" gap and let the base molding cover it. looks great quick and easy.

 

[RaceDeck1]

Larry
I will try to answer some of your questions here, you can always call us directly and we will walk you through step-by-step

(1) First of all, it’s recommended to leave a gap around the perimeter for expansion. I understand this so as to prevent buckling and tenting. But if you leave a gap, what prevents it from migrating to one side or another?RaceDeck - Generally any expansion spreads evenly throughout the floor. unless your garage has a very dramatic slope to one side, you should not have an issue

(2) What is done with the gap?RaceDeck - you have three options here; you can adhere 3m type cove base molding that has lip to cover the gap, this is very popular option in both residential and commercial garages with concrete walls or we do have diamond plate L shaped molding that is adhered the same way or lastly you just leave the gap exposed, in reality, unless you are standing right on top of it, its not noticeable My garage walls sit on top of a concrete sill so molding is not really an option. Is there a foam or elastomeric caulking that could be put in to get rid of the dirt collecting gap?RaceDeck - I would not recommend this, but you could try it? Or would that then cause the same ill effects of not leaving a gap in the first place.

(3) If I put heavy cabinets and such on it around the perimeter, which I understand you can do, wouldn’t this cause buckling and tenting as well as not having a gap? Is the expansion and contraction growth actually going to move these heavy objects?RaceDeck -if you do this at the hottest part of the day, you will 'capture' the maxinum expansion of the floor so it will not buckle. My personal garage has been in for almost 10 years with cabinets, lifts, and various cars and I have never needed to adjust after the initial install period

I hope this helps, but again give us a call

 

[1hellbent]

Thanks Jorgen,

I may take you up on your offer regarding phone support. I know you and many hundreds of others have a successful installation.

Sorry for being ****-retentive but I have an engineering discipline. The proof is in the pudding, with so many successful installations I understand that it does work. I’m just trying to understand how it works….

On one hand, a gap should be maintained around the perimeter to allow for expansion. But on the other hand, it’s okay to weight down the perimeter with cabinets and such…what happens with expansion then?

Applying the weighted objects during the hottest part of the day is a good tip, so is the commercial glue-on cove molding.

At this point in time, I am still debating between the 12” diamond pattern versus the XL. I like the idea of fewer seams with an 18” tile. Other than the disadvantage of having to replace a larger tile if damaged, are there any other pros or cons to the XL? I have not found much talk about the XL here using the search tools.

Thanks again and regards,
Larry

 

[mikeyr]

my lift sits on top of my Racedeck and the tiles never move.

 

[1hellbent]

Thanks Mikey, you have the 12" or the 18"XL?

 

[mikeyr]

12" about 10 years old now.

4post lift and scissor lift both on the tiles and they don't move. Old picture, I have moved since this one was taken, I moved the Racedeck with me All white under the lift for better light reflection was the only mistake I made on the original design, while it did seem brighter under the lift it got dirty too quickly.

 

[RaceDeck1]

Thanks Jorgen,



On one hand, a gap should be maintained around the perimeter to allow for expansion. But on the other hand, it’s okay to weight down the perimeter with cabinets and such…what happens with expansion then?

Applying the weighted objects during the hottest part of the day is a good tip, so is the commercial glue-on cove molding.



Thanks again and regards,
Larry

Hi
I will try to better explain 'capturing the expansion' ; This is the best example of what I am trying to explain -
Let's say we are in Arizona and in the center of a large parking lot with no obstructions. If we take a floor that is 25'x25' place it in the center of the lot in the early am and park two cars on it, one on each end, let's also say its around 50 degrees this morning. By mid day we are seeing temps of 90 degrees and the floor now has a huge wave in it.. The reason, the floor has expanded and can not push the cars out, so it goes up ( the path of least resistance).
Now lets try this again, We place the floor out in the center of the lot in the early morning, but we do not park anything on it. Later in the day we come back and the floor is flat and perfect. Now we drive the same two cars on the floor at mid day when its 90 degrees out and have no issue, we come back in the morning and its still perfectly flat, we come back at mid day again and yes! it's still flat...Why? Because in the middle of the day when it was 90 degrees out and nothing was on the floor, it was at max expansion. When we rolled the cars on it and later cooled, the floor could no way contract and pull the cars in.
This example is the same if we had placed heavy objects like cabinets, tables, lawn mowers, boxes, bikes, chests, etc... when it was hot.

 

[1hellbent]

Thanks Jorgen,

Your example is well absorbed. My only quandary at this point in time is 12" or the 18" XL series, I'm still up in the air.

Regards,
Larry

 

[RaceDeck1]

Thanks Jorgen,

Your example is well absorbed. My only quandary at this point in time is 12" or the 18" XL series, I'm still up in the air.

Regards,
Larry

Really that is more a personal choice on what look you like better Vs. a decision based on performance

 

[RaceDeck1]

we are happy to send you a free sample of each as well.

 

[1hellbent]

Thanks Jorgen!

I already have a sample of the 12". A sample of the 18" would be great! I will go to your website and request one.

I did an online configuration with a checkered pattern for both sizes. For my particular dimensions, the total square footage came out higher using the 18". Understandable, many cut tiles along the perimeter, which equates to more waste at 2.25 sq.ft/tile versus only one square foot for the 12". I have communicated with Janene on both veriations. The 18" layout would be a little more money because of the cut waste but really not enough money to persuade me one way or the other. So I guess I really just need to make up my mind.

Thanks again,
Larry